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antthedrummer
Aug 8, 2006, 10:20 AM
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At my local popular sport crag (Horseshoe Quarry, Peak District, UK) some of the lower offs are shiny new-looking affairs and others consist of a thick, rusty chain between two bolts with a big rusty biner... just wondering whether you guys would trust the biner and lower off or thread the chain at either side and rap (the bolts cannot be threaded)?
Ant
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pk
Aug 8, 2006, 11:07 AM
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Don't thread the bolts -
Anything as rusty as your calling them never thread. If they are that manky they need to be replaced, if you can't do it yourself get some quick links if you climb the routes enough.
Rust and ropes together equal a bad combination.
P.K.
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antthedrummer
Aug 8, 2006, 11:25 AM
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Thanks for the heads-up! :D
The odd thing about this particular route is the rest of the bolts look new.
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deadhorse
Sep 28, 2006, 2:41 AM
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What about bolted routes that have chains hanging from bolt hangers at the top out, but no rap ring or sling or anything? do you opt to thread the rope through (from the end) the last link of both chains, or do you necessarily have to give something up (biner, ring) to get off?
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deadhorse
Sep 28, 2006, 3:01 AM
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I guess if it's leaving a ring up there, that would make sense, and it that case i'd need to pick a few up.
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ja1484
Sep 28, 2006, 3:30 AM
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In reply to: What about bolted routes that have chains hanging from bolt hangers at the top out, but no rap ring or sling or anything? do you opt to thread the rope through (from the end) the last link of both chains, or do you necessarily have to give something up (biner, ring) to get off?
If extremely desperate/loyal to your gear, you can always downclimb and clean as you go. Ovals are cheap though (most places on the web you can find em for $4 or less per), and carrying a couple with you in case of the need to bail/rap is certainly not a herculean act.
4 BD Ovals go up pretty much any climb with me, in case I need to rap and happen to drop my device (have done it before). Also, frankly, Ovals are just friggin useful in more ways than you'd think.
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chossmonkey
Sep 28, 2006, 4:02 AM
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In reply to: What about bolted routes that have chains hanging from bolt hangers at the top out, but no rap ring or sling or anything? do you opt to thread the rope through (from the end) the last link of both chains, or do you necessarily have to give something up (biner, ring) to get off?
The chains are the webbing and rap rings, except they don't rot out as quickly.
Thread your rope through the lowest links.
If for what ever reason some idiot connected the two hangers with the chain you still need to thread the rope through the chain. It might be harder to pull because it will be running over a link, but it is much safer than just putting the rope over the chain. If you just drape it over if anything breaks you will be dead.
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coolklimber
Sep 30, 2006, 1:11 PM
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Had the same problem sometimes. Simply carry some quicklinks that you can leave.
>Cam
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