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froman
Aug 24, 2006, 4:29 AM
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Registered: Sep 17, 2002
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Hi, I know that recently someone unfortunately rapped off their rope on sir donald, my condolences... Tried a forum search and didn't come up with much - was considering NW ridge Sir Donald next week...seems the descent is epic. does anyone have beta on the easiest way down, trip reports of the descent, anyone tried the bolted rap route, or anything else? will visit the ranger station on the way in, but any info would be greatly appreciated, Phil
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the_climber
Aug 24, 2006, 4:20 PM
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
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Phil, This is from the Mountain Conditions Report on the ACMG site. http://www.acmg/mcr Look under this weeks thread for Sir Donald
In reply to: Climbed the route yesterday and as Jordy mentioned, it is a very busy place. With respect to the west face rappel route, there are a couple of things to keep in mind.. One is to consider descending back down the ridge to the col if people are still high on the route. Once you start the rappels you are in the rockfall zone until well off of the face and down the scree. There are numerous large blocks that are easily knocked off by the rope or tired feet high on the ridge. We witnessed massive rockfall crash down the rap line from the upper ridge and at the time there were seven parties descending. The other thing is that just about all of the raps are full 25 meters - if using a 50 meter rope tie knots! Getting to the last set of ring bolts just above the scree (on the white slab) is more than 25 meters. Be careful. Cheers Mike Stuart ACMG Assistant Alpine Guide Also, take a look at www.live-the-vision.com there have beem some recent forums on Sir Donald.
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froman
Aug 25, 2006, 11:07 PM
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Registered: Sep 17, 2002
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hey thanks, the_climber... have you done the descent by the ?south ridge? phil
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