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woodpecker
Aug 24, 2006, 3:16 PM
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Registered: Aug 17, 2006
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Well, I finally made it back to the gym and the muscles/hands/feet/excitment are def. feeling it. I cant believe I took a break from climbing.
Anyway, the gym has a 17.5 ft high x 40 ft wall long wall and I was wondering what a respectable number of laps would be. I'm counting one lap as up/across/down and the across isnt a straight line by any means. :lol:
Thanks in advance,
Billy
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ablebreeze
Sep 24, 2006, 4:53 PM
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I assume you're on a rope to climb 17 feet. I think your saying to climb up the 17 feet then across the 40 feet and then climb back down the 17 feet?
I wouldn't suggest that. A fall from 10 feet has a 50% survival rate. So to climb 17 you should be on a rope. If you climb across 40 then if you fall, you're rope won't catch you before the ground does. It's also really much better to be belayed down the 17, rather than climb down it.
I'd just concentrate on climbing all the way up several times in different locations and bouldering below 12 feet back and forth across the 40. Climb until you're tired and take a break and climb some more. Climbing is very different for every person, so there isn't really any guideline for "laps."
You could find the height of some real climbs you'd like to do sometime and then calculate how many times 17 goes into that to find out what the equivalent number of climbs up your wall would be.
That's my two cents.
(Keep in mind my BS and MS in rec focused on risk management, so I'm usually overly cautious.)
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hereandthere
Sep 24, 2006, 5:34 PM
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Registered: Nov 11, 2005
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In reply to: I wouldn't suggest that. A fall from 10 feet has a 50% survival rate.
I hope your kidding. If your not I would recomend getting out of florida
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overlord
Sep 24, 2006, 5:41 PM
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you know, thats 17ft, not 17m. a fall from 17ft onto a good matress is pretty comfy. offcourse im assuming its a bouldering gym; i wouldnt do such laps while ropedup. too many complications if you want to keep it kindof safe.
as for the number of the laps, depends on what youre trying to train. if its endurance, id say as much as possible. if its power-endurance, you should climb 3-5minutes until failure.
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andysifain
Sep 24, 2006, 5:45 PM
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Registered: Apr 2, 2006
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hmmm....i guess this question really depends on what the holds/features look like. if you are pulling a ton of hard moves on nasty crimps, i dont suspect youll be able to do more than a couple of laps. if youre pulling jugs straight back and forth on a slab, then about 100 would do :-p
i would try and divy it up a bit. go easy across, hard back, medium across, easy back, etc. etc. until you feel totally burnt out. i dont think there is a definitive number you should focus on, rather focus on getting tricky moves, and on maintaining endurance. as long as your heart is beating pretty quick for an extended period of time, then youll def get a good work out. then again, thats the medical part of me talking :-p
Andy
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mattyp
Sep 24, 2006, 6:11 PM
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In reply to: I wouldn't suggest that. A fall from 10 feet has a 50% survival rate.
Did you read what you typed? I can't tell you how many times i've fallen from above 10 feet...and guess what i'm typing this message.
I could believe that statistic if it pertained to falling on your head from 10 feet.
Maybe that is what you meant. But please remember that i'm the guy that hucks himself out of a plane in the pitch black night with 100+ lbs of gear strapped to my body. I may not be impartial.
Oh Woodpecker...just climb until you fall off, but only if you have good insurance. :evil:
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ninja_climber
Sep 24, 2006, 8:32 PM
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Registered: Apr 10, 2005
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I've fallen from 25 feet in a gym onto mats...nothing will happen if you know how to fall. I presume your not roping up,because of the hassle...The number of laps your running depends on what your running them on. I usualy run laps until I get an awesome pump, and then run 2 more laps. I believe you can only break barriers after you've pushed past your limit.
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lena_chita
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Sep 25, 2006, 5:49 PM
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The OP didn't say anything about rope, did he?
17ft high is a bit on a high side, but it is only couple ft higher than the top of the bouldering wall at our gym... so I don't see why you couldn't go up, across and down without any rope assuming that the floor is nice and cushy. Though I also don't see the need to do the laps that way all the time :)
But something tells me that the OP actually meant that a lap can be any ONE of these things-- e.g. a lap could be up and down on 17.5 ft, or it could be 40 ft traverse...
And as to what is the reasonable number of laps-- well, that would be determined by your fitness levels and goals, and you didn't mention anything about it.
For endurance training I don't go by lap number, but rather by time-- e.i. traversing at "just below pump feeling" for 30 min.
I also do up-down laps with the rule that you can climb up/down or rest/shake-out on the wall without weigthing the rope and you are not allowed to come off until the point comes when you actually make a move and fall on it b/c you are so pumped/tired that you can't stick a move. I am not sure if it should be called endurance or power/endurance, or whatever... This exercise can only be effective on overhanging wall though-- on vertical wall in a gym you can stand on jugs and shake out without ever getting to the point of failure, and your belayer will get bored and drop you :)
There is 4x4 bouldering doing 4 boulder problems with timed rest in between that is described elsewhere in the topics in great detail I believe.
And I also do 4 "actual route" roped climbs in sequence, climbing up on routes and down-climbing on any holds. For this activity it helps if you have 4 routes of various difficulty that are all climable from the same rope and they are all at the level that you can do, the hardest one should be 'barely doable' -- you start your 4 laps with the hardest one at first, and if you can do all 4 starting with the hardest, next do it so the hardest route is the second or 3rd in sequence, and eventually sequence them so the hardest one come at the end-- to me it sort of mimics the situation of a long route where the crux is towards the end of it.
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