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chumbawumba
Sep 28, 2006, 12:04 AM
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Registered: Dec 20, 2005
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I did my first aid climb this past weekend. It was the Lost Arrow Spire Tip in Yosemite. The route was a blast and I managed to take an 8 foot fall from the C2 hook move which was pretty exciting with all the air below. Prior to Saturday I had never practiced aid climbing and had only tested out my ascenders on a 30 foot piece of choss down the street from my house in San Francisco.
One thing that struck me was the fact that it was really hard to keep my feet in the etriers when jugging. In fact, when I did the Tyrolean traverse from the tip back to the rim of the valley I repeatedly ended up with the etrier around my knee.
Is this a matter of practice or is there a trick to keeping your feet in the etriers? ( I was using black diamond etriers if it makes a difference.)
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the_dude
Sep 28, 2006, 6:39 AM
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Break' em in so they're not so stiff. BDs in general stick straight out to the side. Also, get a feel for the foot-hand coordination. when you know your going to stop moving your jug, keep pressure on your foot. Don't think about the metolious easy aiders, they're a waste of time, good for jugging but suck for aiding. The easy daisies on the other hand are the shit.
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chumbawumba
Sep 28, 2006, 6:43 PM
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Thanks.
I figured that its a matter of practice but was curious if I was just missing something.
I was using easy daisy chains and they worked great.
One other question. What is the proper adjustment for daisy's when jugging? I had the bottom ascender very close to the harness and the top ascender was a little closer than my fully extended arm. It seemed to work but judging by how sore I was after a relatively short climb I know I expended tons of extra energy.
Mark
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summerprophet
Sep 28, 2006, 7:16 PM
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First of all I wish I could help with the settings for jugging, but that is really determined by preferences and body size. Spend some time hanging on a rope to determine what works for you. Mkae sure you can still reach your top jug while you are sitting from your daisys though. Once you have them down mark the loops in your daisies with tape so you will always be able to quickly assemble your setup.
As far as your feet falling out, that is easilly fixed. The footloops in black diamand (and most other) aiders are just the right size so that if you stick your foot in a loop, then fold the loop into an eight, and flip the lower part over the top of your foot it will fit tightly.
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yetanotherdave
Sep 28, 2006, 8:23 PM
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My yates ladders came with elastic in steps 4 and 5. This can be flipped over your feet to keep them in when jugging. The difference this makes is HUGE!
I've since sewn elastic into my pocket aiders as well. I wish they were made this way initially, it'd be easy to do a clean sewing job in the factory, harder to patch them later.
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caughtinside
Sep 28, 2006, 8:49 PM
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what summerprophet said.
And dude? Beaver street wall choss? THat place is all time! :P
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chumbawumba
Sep 29, 2006, 3:43 AM
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Thanks for the advice.
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krusher4
Oct 10, 2006, 9:42 PM
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Cavers have a rig they tie for jugging. You tie an overhand in each side of about a 5 foot lengh of cord then put a figure 8 in the middle and clip that to your lower ascender. It's a breeze really sweet for free jugging.
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microbarn
Oct 10, 2006, 10:11 PM
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In reply to: I did my first aid climb this past weekend. It was the Lost Arrow Spire Tip in Yosemite. The route was a blast and I managed to take an 8 foot fall from the C2 hook move which was pretty exciting with all the air below. Prior to Saturday I had never practiced aid climbing and had only tested out my ascenders on a 30 foot piece of choss down the street from my house in San Francisco. |
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musicman
Oct 10, 2006, 11:19 PM
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Registered: Apr 16, 2004
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In reply to: My yates ladders came with elastic in steps 4 and 5. This can be flipped over your feet to keep them in when jugging. The difference this makes is HUGE! I've since sewn elastic into my pocket aiders as well. I wish they were made this way initially, it'd be easy to do a clean sewing job in the factory, harder to patch them later.
i've heard/seen people who take a bicycle tube (for a tire...duh) and cut a strip off (measure around your foot), then tie it around the step in the etrier. you can then pull it around you foot so it keeps the step against the bottom of your foot, and when you don't need to use it the tube will just hang free from the step.
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musicman
Oct 10, 2006, 11:19 PM
Post #11 of 12
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Registered: Apr 16, 2004
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In reply to: My yates ladders came with elastic in steps 4 and 5. This can be flipped over your feet to keep them in when jugging. The difference this makes is HUGE! I've since sewn elastic into my pocket aiders as well. I wish they were made this way initially, it'd be easy to do a clean sewing job in the factory, harder to patch them later.
i've heard/seen people who take a bicycle tube (for a tire...duh) and cut a strip off (measure around your foot), then tie it around the step in the etrier. you can then pull it around you foot so it keeps the step against the bottom of your foot, and when you don't need to use it the tube will just hang free from the step.
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fixednut
Oct 11, 2006, 12:39 AM
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Registered: Aug 3, 2004
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In reply to: it was really hard to keep my feet in the etriers when jugging
I think the problem, Pierre, is that you're pronouncing "aiders" incorrectly.
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