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needrock
Sep 28, 2006, 4:03 PM
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so I'm looking to get some new shoes, and can't decide between the 5.10 V10's or the Lasportiva Venom's. any thoughts or personal experiences sure could help.
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the_dave
Sep 28, 2006, 4:22 PM
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Depends, what type of climbing are you going to be doing? What is your foot work like? Those are things that you really have to consider, but my advice would be the venoms, I have a few friends that use them, and really enjoy climbing in them.
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rockguide
Sep 28, 2006, 4:23 PM
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Advice irrelevant now.
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bizarrodrinker
Sep 28, 2006, 6:56 PM
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I have heard pretty good things about the V10's. Not sure about the Venom's. I am personally a fan of the 5.10 galileo as an agressive velcro shoe. Still looking for an agressive lace up to wear. I tried the Anasazi but the heel sux.
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needrock
Sep 29, 2006, 1:13 PM
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i am doing very aggressive bouldering and some cave work. i already have a pair of 5.10 moccasyms and absolutely love them, but they are getting worn down from recent high levels of gym climbing, so i'm looking for another good slipper. and rockguide- i don't know how to move the thread, so i guess i'll jsut keep wasting your five seconds...
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sevrdhed
Sep 29, 2006, 1:45 PM
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Y'know, all these shoe threads make me wonder... don't you think, if there was ONE shoe that was the best for ANY type of climbing, that all the top-level climbers would be wearing that shoe while doing that kind of climbing?
Simple fact is, there are no facts in this case. It's all opinion. What you're asking is for other people to make your opinion for you, which is invariable going to end up bad eventually. What you may want to do is go out, and try them both. Feel the fit, feel the stickiness, decide which one you like best... and if you like them both equally the same, then pick the cheaper one. Or flip a coin. Then try them for a while. That'll let you form your OWN opinion as to whether or not that was the one shoe for you.
Me, I've been through a lot of different pairs of shoes, and I've found one common thing.... there is no one good shoe. In fact, I used two different kinds of shoe when I finally sent my 2 year project a week ago. Some shoes do some things better than others. The trick is to just try them, and unfortunately, that experience is going to be totally specific to you, so it can't come from a message board.
Anyway, now I"m just rambling. Go out, try the shoes, buy one, then when it dies, buy the other one. Good luck!
Steve
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needrock
Sep 29, 2006, 3:03 PM
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sevrdhed- not looking for someone to make my decision, I'm just looking for experiences, but thanks for the crappy response
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rainontin
Sep 29, 2006, 3:19 PM
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they are both excellent at steep climbing, so it is really a matter of which one fits your foot better. The Venoms are available in more stores so perhaps you should try those on and see what you think. Venoms stretch a lot, the new V10s with rubber over the toe hardly stretch at all. The Venoms are softer and can easily be used on vert without discomfort while the V10s hold their downturn longer and aren't so good on vert. You really can't go wrong with either shoe.
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needrock
Oct 3, 2006, 5:41 PM
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rainontin- thanks alot man, i appreciate the heads-up
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macherry
Oct 4, 2006, 9:01 PM
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macherry moved this thread from General to Gear Heads.
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krusher4
Oct 4, 2006, 10:06 PM
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In reply to: sevrdhed- not looking for someone to make my decision, I'm just looking for experiences, but thanks for the crappy response
I agree with you, the reason we are is to just talk about climbing and get other climbers insites. I have been a jerk on many occasions, mostly just from being tired at work. I think I will change my ways
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thor4life144
Oct 5, 2006, 4:03 AM
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Throw my vote in for the Venoms. I've been climbing in them HARD for about 6 months. Holding up great. I would deffently recomend them to anyone doing overhung/cave work (like you are)
Cant say too much about the V10s, as I've heard next to nothing about them.
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ahwoo
Oct 5, 2006, 6:58 AM
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well, i've got pairs of both. just starting to get my venoms broken in. while i very much like the venoms, i think my vote'd have to be for the v10s. good toe, great rubber, and they're just a little more flexible than the venoms. which is probably something you'd want to consider going from a pair of mocs. i think my main issue with the venoms is that if you have a bit of a wider foot, the rubber webbing on the top is just a bit too confining.
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