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lucrativ
Oct 2, 2006, 4:18 AM
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I found this little article interesting . (courtesy 8a.nu) Bouldering has been a climbing activity for over 100 years and probably it all started in Fontainebleau. Since then, bleausards have been sliding off the slopy boulders trying to find increasingly problematic ways to get to the top. Specific boulder problems were first identified in the mid 40-ties in topos and by painting small arrows on the rock. Lately, lots of innovative methods to create new difficult problems, have come up: Variations, Eliminations, Traverses, and Link-ups etc. Actually, maybe only half of the 8a boulders in Fontainbleau and around the world could be considered "easiest way up". Some are, in fact, so complicated that they can't be described in a topo or by arrows, instead they only exist in the mind of the first ascender and maybe their spotters. Almost every sport has a judge deciding what’s right and wrong. The extreme athlete tries to find shortcuts like doping, "high altitude houses", pace makers etc, to be number one. In sport climbing and bouldering however, it’s more or less up to the individual to decide what goes, that is to bend and sometimes even break the "rules". These "rules", are by no means written in stone, in fact quite the contrary. Since there’s nothing we at 8a.nu like better than to tell people what to think and do, we thought we’d take the opportunity to use this forum, where no one can object to what we’re saying, to do exactly that . This time we’ve decided to discuss the matter of bouldering ethics, a few do’s and don’ts if you like. OK, it's only a game but it's better played when everybody sticks to the same rules. It should be underlined that we are first of all looking at a way of categorising boulders from boulder problems! We’ll go through the potential troublemakers one by one and discuss them briefly, but don't forget that it's first of all a game and actually in most cases nobody knows what's right or wrong and that it's totally impossible to exactly draw a line between any boulder categories. "The easiest way up" is the key definition for a boulder: Further more, you should categorise a boulder from a boulder problem by understanding it. If you can not decide where to start, which hold to use and where you should top-out, only by looking at it and study it in the topo, then we are talking about a boulder problem. In this case you often have to use friends, information to be able to do the specific problem. Below you can see an overview of how we define the two categories. Traverses Traverses are, in a few places in the world, graded with a particular hybrid scale. The world's highest graded traverse is located in Fontainbleau and it's given 8c+. We think 8B+ is a more correct and compartible grade with other traverses/long boulders in the world, like the 40 move roof, La Travesia de Balzola 8B+, in Spain. The reason for this are as follows: 1. The V-grading system makes no difference between traverses and boulders. 2. It's often hard to tell what should be called/graded like a traverse respectively called/graded like a boulder, resulting in equally hard things getting different grades. 3. How should short traverses be graded? 4. How should long roof boulders be graded? So, what should you do if you climb something which is traverse-graded? Well, the rule of thumb is to lower the grade two steps, 8a+ becomes 7C+. In some cases one step could be justified, especially if the traverse is short and doesn't require that much endurance. Use common sence. About pathetic eliminations, link-ups, variations etc., come on… try to avoid them, they only tend to confuse things. If the problem is too easy for you - try something harder rather then go forward and back, round and round horhorizontal! Crash pads For starting purposes you can only use one crash pads and that is an unfolded one. If you can’t reach the holds - tough luck, then you can only do your own variation of the problem and the same goes when you use cheater stones. Apart from that, our advice is that you use as many pads as you can or that pole-vaulting mat, they are easily freight able by helicopter... Starting holds Normally, a boulder starts at the holds within reach. However, sometimes a boulder starts with a jump start (because there are no other possibilities) and on other occasions at holds further below, just because these holds are defined by the line. As long as the start is obvious, then we are talking boulder, but when it's hard to understand where to start, often because the problem maker mainly was going for a specific grade, then we are talking boulder problem. Dynos If the easiest way to top out a boulder is by a sequence of moves around a potential dyno you should do so if you want to categorise it as a boulder. The dyno might be much more fun and challenging, but as it's not natural then you should categorise it as a boulder problem. Chipping/Chopping First rule: You don’t chip or chop boulders. Second rule: You DO NOT chip or chop boulder! There are no grey areas here. Bouldering is about doing the hardest moves possible on rock, and it should go without saying, that means unaltered rock. Chipping means changing the rock in the way you want it, to make it suit you and frankly it sucks! In other words we don't consider it even as a boulder problem! Top roping (Freepoint) If nothing else is said, you’re normally supposed to top out. Use your brain though... We’re talking about high balls here, and there’s no rule saying you can’t use a top rope to practice the problem. On the ascent however, you can’t use a rope, cause that wouldn’t be bouldering. Of course, one alternative is to freepoint it. Chalk/Pof Use as much chalk as you want, but be sure to brush it off the holds when you’re done. Chalk attracts moisture... On the other hand old chalk also offers a reasonably good explanation for why you didn’t send the problem, so...it’s hard to say... If you’re anywhere else, but in Fontainebleau, don’t use pof! It gives you a temporary advantage and everyone who comes after you, including yourself, a disadvantage. Not exactly what we’d call a fair game... The rule is thus: Don’t use pof unless you’re absolutely sure you’re going to send... Traverses Traversing is not bouldering and vice versa. Traverse grades are not comparable to bouldering. The traverse grade is an actual hybrid, a mid-way to sport climbing grades. In our categorisation we consider all traverses, boulder problems as long as they are not the easiest way up. Then they are boulders by definition and should have a proper boulder grade.
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overlord
Oct 2, 2006, 5:53 AM
Post #2 of 31
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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why is a dyno not natural?
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patto
Oct 2, 2006, 11:21 AM
Post #3 of 31
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Registered: Nov 15, 2005
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:shock: :shock: :shock: I think you are getting a bit too serious about bouldering. My head hurts just trying to think about the rules your trying to make. I boulder as a fun challenge, and to train technique and strength without having to worry about ropes and gear.
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sevrdhed
Oct 2, 2006, 12:51 PM
Post #4 of 31
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Registered: Feb 5, 2004
Posts: 923
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In reply to: I found this little article interesting . (courtesy 8a.nu) Pretty sure the OP isn't the author of the article, before you jump all over him. That said, I also think that's a little excessive. I mean hell, it's just bouldering. I always think it's funny when people start to take climbing very very seriously. There's a lot of people out there that seem to think of it as much, much more than climbing up a rock. But, if creating the most difficult link-up eliminate variation lip traverse that you can do is your thing, then have at it, and enjoy yourself. Just don't be surprised when I'm not all that impressed by it. Steve
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sevrdhed
Oct 2, 2006, 12:57 PM
Post #5 of 31
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licsIn reply to: I found this little article interesting . (courtesy 8a.nu) Pretty sure the OP isn't the author of the article, before you jump all over him. That said, I also think that's a little excessive. I mean hell, it's just bouldering. I always think it's funny when people start to take climbing very very seriously. There's a lot of people out there that seem to think of it as much, much more than climbing up a rock. But, if creating the most difficult link-up eliminate variation lip traverse that you can do is your thing, then have at it, and enjoy yourself. Just don't be surprised when I'm not all that impressed by it. Steve
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overlord
Oct 2, 2006, 1:19 PM
Post #6 of 31
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
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In reply to: In reply to: I found this little article interesting . (courtesy 8a.nu) Pretty sure the OP isn't the author of the article, before you jump all over him. That said, I also think that's a little excessive. I mean hell, it's just bouldering. I always think it's funny when people start to take climbing very very seriously. There's a lot of people out there that seem to think of it as much, much more than climbing up a rock. But, if creating the most difficult link-up eliminate variation lip traverse that you can do is your thing, then have at it, and enjoy yourself. Just don't be surprised when I'm not all that impressed by it. i didnt assume he was. anyway, i pretty much agree with your other points. i guess someone is not liking the "most difficult link-up eliminate blahblah" that someone has put up because he cant send it and has a serious case of sour grapes about it and decided its not a boulder/boulder problem/whatever about it. as for me, a boulder is a piece of rock, a boulder problem is a (usually short and difficult) route. anyway, the only thing in that article that i agree with is the 'no chipping' thing. we should start cuttin chippers fingers :twisted:
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ninja_climber
Oct 2, 2006, 2:51 PM
Post #7 of 31
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Registered: Apr 10, 2005
Posts: 403
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In reply to: I found this little article interesting . (courtesy 8a.nu) Bouldering has been a climbing activity for over 100 years and probably it all started in Fontainebleau. Since then, bleausards have been sliding off the slopy boulders trying to find increasingly problematic ways to get to the top. Specific boulder problems were first identified in the mid 40-ties in topos and by painting small arrows on the rock. Lately, lots of innovative methods to create new difficult problems, have come up: Variations, Eliminations, Traverses, and Link-ups etc. Actually, maybe only half of the 8a boulders in Fontainbleau and around the world could be considered "easiest way up". Some are, in fact, so complicated that they can't be described in a topo or by arrows, instead they only exist in the mind of the first ascender and maybe their spotters. Almost every sport has a judge deciding what’s right and wrong. The extreme athlete tries to find shortcuts like doping, "high altitude houses", pace makers etc, to be number one. In sport climbing and bouldering however, it’s more or less up to the individual to decide what goes, that is to bend and sometimes even break the "rules". These "rules", are by no means written in stone, in fact quite the contrary. Since there’s nothing we at 8a.nu like better than to tell people what to think and do, we thought we’d take the opportunity to use this forum, where no one can object to what we’re saying, to do exactly that . This time we’ve decided to discuss the matter of bouldering ethics, a few do’s and don’ts if you like. OK, it's only a game but it's better played when everybody sticks to the same rules. It should be underlined that we are first of all looking at a way of categorising boulders from boulder problems! We’ll go through the potential troublemakers one by one and discuss them briefly, but don't forget that it's first of all a game and actually in most cases nobody knows what's right or wrong and that it's totally impossible to exactly draw a line between any boulder categories. "The easiest way up" is the key definition for a boulder: Further more, you should categorise a boulder from a boulder problem by understanding it. If you can not decide where to start, which hold to use and where you should top-out, only by looking at it and study it in the topo, then we are talking about a boulder problem. In this case you often have to use friends, information to be able to do the specific problem. Below you can see an overview of how we define the two categories. Traverses Traverses are, in a few places in the world, graded with a particular hybrid scale. The world's highest graded traverse is located in Fontainbleau and it's given 8c+. We think 8B+ is a more correct and compartible grade with other traverses/long boulders in the world, like the 40 move roof, La Travesia de Balzola 8B+, in Spain. The reason for this are as follows: 1. The V-grading system makes no difference between traverses and boulders. 2. It's often hard to tell what should be called/graded like a traverse respectively called/graded like a boulder, resulting in equally hard things getting different grades. 3. How should short traverses be graded? 4. How should long roof boulders be graded? So, what should you do if you climb something which is traverse-graded? Well, the rule of thumb is to lower the grade two steps, 8a+ becomes 7C+. In some cases one step could be justified, especially if the traverse is short and doesn't require that much endurance. Use common sence. About pathetic eliminations, link-ups, variations etc., come on… try to avoid them, they only tend to confuse things. If the problem is too easy for you - try something harder rather then go forward and back, round and round horhorizontal! Crash pads For starting purposes you can only use one crash pads and that is an unfolded one. If you can’t reach the holds - tough luck, then you can only do your own variation of the problem and the same goes when you use cheater stones. Apart from that, our advice is that you use as many pads as you can or that pole-vaulting mat, they are easily freight able by helicopter... Starting holds Normally, a boulder starts at the holds within reach. However, sometimes a boulder starts with a jump start (because there are no other possibilities) and on other occasions at holds further below, just because these holds are defined by the line. As long as the start is obvious, then we are talking boulder, but when it's hard to understand where to start, often because the problem maker mainly was going for a specific grade, then we are talking boulder problem. Dynos If the easiest way to top out a boulder is by a sequence of moves around a potential dyno you should do so if you want to categorise it as a boulder. The dyno might be much more fun and challenging, but as it's not natural then you should categorise it as a boulder problem. Chipping/Chopping First rule: You don’t chip or chop boulders. Second rule: You DO NOT chip or chop boulder! There are no grey areas here. Bouldering is about doing the hardest moves possible on rock, and it should go without saying, that means unaltered rock. Chipping means changing the rock in the way you want it, to make it suit you and frankly it sucks! In other words we don't consider it even as a boulder problem! Top roping (Freepoint) If nothing else is said, you’re normally supposed to top out. Use your brain though... We’re talking about high balls here, and there’s no rule saying you can’t use a top rope to practice the problem. On the ascent however, you can’t use a rope, cause that wouldn’t be bouldering. Of course, one alternative is to freepoint it. Chalk/Pof Use as much chalk as you want, but be sure to brush it off the holds when you’re done. Chalk attracts moisture... On the other hand old chalk also offers a reasonably good explanation for why you didn’t send the problem, so...it’s hard to say... If you’re anywhere else, but in Fontainebleau, don’t use pof! It gives you a temporary advantage and everyone who comes after you, including yourself, a disadvantage. Not exactly what we’d call a fair game... The rule is thus: Don’t use pof unless you’re absolutely sure you’re going to send... Traverses Traversing is not bouldering and vice versa. Traverse grades are not comparable to bouldering. The traverse grade is an actual hybrid, a mid-way to sport climbing grades. In our categorisation we consider all traverses, boulder problems as long as they are not the easiest way up. Then they are boulders by definition and should have a proper boulder grade. Its not bouldering unless a spotter brings weed Fixed it for you...
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keinangst
Oct 2, 2006, 2:57 PM
Post #8 of 31
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Registered: Apr 1, 2003
Posts: 1408
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I can't quite put my finger on it, but that writing made my head hurt. Was that written by a native English speaker?
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adklimber
Oct 2, 2006, 3:39 PM
Post #9 of 31
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Registered: Jan 27, 2006
Posts: 110
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To me this is ok, however, stacking the pads seems reasonable, especially if the ground is slanting away from the rock, and there is a sit start. I could care less if someone stacked the pads. What is the difference between two regular sized crash pads stacked and one Mondo pad...not much. Also, what is Pof?
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wax
Oct 3, 2006, 2:41 PM
Post #10 of 31
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Registered: Jan 6, 2005
Posts: 113
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i have another rule... relax. especially about the crashpad bit.
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perionychium
Oct 3, 2006, 3:27 PM
Post #12 of 31
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Registered: Jan 27, 2006
Posts: 37
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In reply to: i have another rule... relax. especially about the crashpad bit. I was thinking the same thing.
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overlord
Oct 4, 2006, 6:41 AM
Post #13 of 31
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Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
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In reply to: In reply to: Also, what is Pof? Pof, also known as cheating, is a substance used by weak french climbers to climb crap they can't climb. It's sort of like the aid climbing of bouldering, except lame and not hard and scary http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Pof Don't use it. Steve its also called resin :wink: i agree on the 'dont use' part.
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vegastradguy
Oct 5, 2006, 4:51 AM
Post #14 of 31
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Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919
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:wtf:
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wax
Oct 5, 2006, 4:00 PM
Post #15 of 31
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Registered: Jan 6, 2005
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resin gums up the rock and ruins it for everybody. and therefore sucks.
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hosh
Oct 5, 2006, 5:34 PM
Post #16 of 31
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
Posts: 1662
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Bouldering ethics? sounds like an oxymoron to me... Bouldering is fun, but seems like there's not much of a standard amongst it's adherants (except for rap music and a beenie) hosh.
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obnoxice
Oct 5, 2006, 6:04 PM
Post #17 of 31
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Registered: Sep 19, 2005
Posts: 38
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In reply to: Bouldering ethics? sounds like an oxymoron to me... Bouldering is fun, but seems like there's not much of a standard amongst it's adherants (except for rap music and a beenie) hosh. I totally agree with the beenie! Not quite so bout the rap music though. But yeah... It's all bout the beenie! :)
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boredwolf
Oct 5, 2006, 6:12 PM
Post #18 of 31
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Registered: Aug 18, 2006
Posts: 75
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In reply to: In sport climbing and bouldering however, it’s more or less up to the individual to decide what goes, that is to bend and sometimes even break the "rules". These "rules", are by no means written in stone, in fact quite the contrary. Setting aside the fact that this is a set of rules and not ethics, this article is trash. While there are conventions in bouldering, it ceases to be recreation once we declare some lofty and (contrary to what the author would have us believe) set-in-stone laws about what constitutes the activity. While it is debatable that some small snippets of the article are ethical (pof, chipping, etc.), the only people that give a damn about top-roping(???) and folding your crash pad are off at the Triple Crown. Screw the rules, and happy bouldering!
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bizarrodrinker
Oct 6, 2006, 7:19 PM
Post #19 of 31
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Registered: Dec 20, 2005
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In reply to: In reply to: Bouldering ethics? sounds like an oxymoron to me... Bouldering is fun, but seems like there's not much of a standard amongst it's adherants (except for rap music and a beenie) hosh. I totally agree with the beenie! Not quite so bout the rap music though. But yeah... It's all bout the beenie! :) That and getting toasted...Nicely toasted 8^)
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chrisparedes
Oct 7, 2006, 1:49 AM
Post #20 of 31
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Registered: Aug 4, 2004
Posts: 211
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This post didn't really make much sense to me. Do any others share these feelings?
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jgill
Oct 11, 2006, 1:22 AM
Post #21 of 31
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Registered: May 18, 2002
Posts: 653
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Looks like someone wants to turn bouldering into a counterpart of modern competitive gymnastics - a sport having virtually no recreational value anymore. Don't do it, people. Stay loose and enjoy youselves. By the way, Fontainebleau is not the only place where this sport "began". 8^)
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phase_nine
Oct 11, 2006, 1:49 AM
Post #22 of 31
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Registered: Dec 1, 2005
Posts: 48
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Everyone spits about boulderers being total potheads when it seems that there is a pretty even amount of all kinds of climbers that are potheads. Although, come to think of it, every single person I have ever met and bouldered with has gotten me high........
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the_dave
Oct 11, 2006, 2:08 AM
Post #23 of 31
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Registered: Mar 20, 2006
Posts: 44
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THis has honestly made my head hurt... But when I boulder... If I have to stack multiple crashpads, and jump for the holds... there's something wrong with the problem, or I'm not good enough to do the start... But really, these are some extreme ethics, most of which don't agree to. The true ethics I say about climbing... Don't destroy the rock. Respect the enviroment around the rock, and the rock itself. Respect other climbers, and people around. Have fun and be safe.
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curt
Oct 11, 2006, 2:47 AM
Post #24 of 31
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Registered: Aug 27, 2002
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In reply to: I found this little article interesting . (courtesy 8a.nu) :boring::boring::boring::boring::boring: Another fine example of why 8a.nu sucks. Curt
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bvb
Oct 11, 2006, 3:16 AM
Post #25 of 31
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Registered: Mar 3, 2003
Posts: 954
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In reply to: Annother fine example of why 8a.nu sucks. Curt no shit. i can't believe someone actually wrote that tripe; even more mind-boggling is that 8a.nu would post it. tards is right. eight-a SPEW......
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