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argo
Oct 18, 2006, 6:02 PM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2006
Posts: 9
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Hey ppl,
My first post here so I want it to share my experience about redpointing route.
I started climbing almost 2 months ago and I'm having the best time in my life. Simply cant describe that feeling that you all know and I guess thats the reason why we are climbing anyway...
My first redpoint was easy route 4c then 5c and today I tried to redpoint 6c+ and almost made it - I had enough power, strength but I made mistake and lost my balance :( Fall was about 3-4 meters and it was nice one, no injuries. I finished the route after that fall and this time smoothly.
Strange thing about this try was that I really like that route and when I'm doing TR its going without any problems but in redpoint try I simply did mistake that I never did previously, put my left leg at the spot for the right one and I couldn't spread my legs to keep balance. At least there is always tommorow for the next try :D
I saw quite few posts about "first tries" therefore I apologies If I'm bothering you :oops:
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slablizard
Oct 18, 2006, 7:18 PM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2003
Posts: 5558
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No you're not bothering! :)
Good job! keep leading!
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slablizard
Oct 18, 2006, 7:20 PM
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Registered: Oct 13, 2003
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No you're not bothering! :)
Good job! keep leading!
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udaho
Oct 20, 2006, 6:08 PM
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Registered: Aug 11, 2006
Posts: 21
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Hey, Great Job! I recently did my first sport climbs, and it's a great feeling. I totally felt off-balance the whole time and got a little sketched out. I wouldn't even consider falling on a 5.9 on TR but when you're 8 feet above that last bolt, it's a totally different experience. Good news that your fall was clean - probably took the edge off. Anyway, keep climbing - I know I will! :wink:
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yanqui
Oct 20, 2006, 6:42 PM
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Registered: Feb 24, 2004
Posts: 1559
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Almost two months climbing and you haven't done your first 11c redpoint?
Maybe you need an accelerated learning program.
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asc_climb
Oct 21, 2006, 1:14 AM
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Registered: Sep 16, 2005
Posts: 67
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In reply to: Almost two months climbing and you haven't done your first 11c redpoint? Maybe you need an accelerated learning program.
you are....l a m e yanqui
good job!
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argo
Oct 21, 2006, 2:46 PM
Post #7 of 8
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Registered: Oct 13, 2006
Posts: 9
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Thx for your answers ppl, its always nice too hear encouraging words :D
Yanqui, I dont really mind if I'm climbing TR or redpoint, for me its the climbing that is important, one way or the other. Redpoint for me is simply the way to see can I focus enough and how to keep my strength all the way so I dont get tired...
Greetings :D
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yanqui
Oct 26, 2006, 5:57 PM
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Registered: Feb 24, 2004
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In reply to: In reply to: Almost two months climbing and you haven't done your first 11c redpoint? Maybe you need an accelerated learning program. you are....l a m e yanqui good job!
Dude, if someone comes on this site with no name, no location, no personal description, no partners, no photos, no routes and their first post is starting a thread to inform the world how they're out there trying to redpoint 11c in some unknown location after climbing less than two months, then I feel like I'm getting snowed. Bamboozled. Hornswaggled. Who knows, maybe argo's the real deal. And if you feel he/she needs a pat on the head, that's OK by me. At the time, I thought a little sarcasm was in order. But then again, I'm lame.
Since we're all being so sharing and supportive about 11c, and since you're from the area, I thought I'd mention I actually spent a couple of days in Penitente about 15 years ago, while ago on road trip through Colorado with Jose Pereyra. Coincidentally, 11c just happens to be the hardest grade I managed to onsight in the canyon. I also remember a fairly stout, very thin, 11c face, a ways into the canyon, that Jose struggled very hard to onsight, and that spanked me good. The picturesque 5.12 arete, Bullet the Blue Sky, kicked both our asses. That pretty much put to rest the rumor we'd heard about the routes in Penitente being easy for the grade. I deceive you not.
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