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dbrayack
Oct 20, 2006, 3:01 PM
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Just looking to see what thoughts are, but I heard that someone took photos of some young guy soloing a super hardcore route.
If the dude would have fallen, it would have been certain death, the following lawsuits likely leading to the closure of some of the best climbing in the region.
Do you think that is being irresponsible? I can't really think of anything NOT irrepsonsible about it, both encouraging someone to throw away their life for a spotlight and at the same time jeopardizing access to an already fragile-acces area.
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atpeaceinbozeman
Oct 20, 2006, 3:53 PM
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I really need more details than that.
How young?
How hard of a route?
Did the photographer encourage, or mearly photograph something that would have been done anyways?
Not sure if I can respond about the access issues.
I've shot photos of people soloing; they are usually more comfortable about it that I am....
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dbrayack
Oct 20, 2006, 3:55 PM
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The dude was old enough to know better, and said that he'd solo the route whether the photographer took photos of him doing it or not.
So the said photographer ascended and took photos.
It was a hard and very commiting route (13 range)
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olderic
Oct 20, 2006, 4:00 PM
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You are implying that the climbing was done for the sake of the camera at the request of the photographer - is that the case?
Of course it has been done. One of the more gripping climbing moments was 30+ years ago when Hot Henry Barber free soloed a route (10+ equivalent grade I think) for live TV in England. His biography account of it is interersting with the insights he had into the reasons for soloing.
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atpeaceinbozeman
Oct 20, 2006, 4:02 PM
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Well, I guess that's that. More of a personal choice then.
It's still a bit wierd to think about/or shoot photos of people soloing hard, or at all.
I have a few shoots lined up that both give me the willies; a 9 and a 12...
I still feel I should shoot them, but watching a fall would be horrible.
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dbrayack
Oct 20, 2006, 4:03 PM
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The individual soloed the route so he could have photos taken of him. The photographer didn't encourage the climbing, though only half heartedly tried to discourage him.
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krusher4
Oct 20, 2006, 4:06 PM
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We all chose our own lives, but this was a minor. Regardless I think this is a troll. Is it against the law to die soloing???
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8flood8
Oct 20, 2006, 4:16 PM
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a friend of mine solod a .10d the other week.
he solo'd it twice for a HD camera, then he posted it on youtube and then posted that to his myspace.
he did it for the camera and the chicks.
i gave him no props and asked him why he clipped in on his daisy after he got to the top. heh, he used a rope to lower
if you ask me, that ain't soloing
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krusher4
Oct 20, 2006, 4:35 PM
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In reply to: a friend of mine solod a .10d the other week. he solo'd it twice for a HD camera, then he posted it on youtube and then posted that to his myspace. he did it for the camera and the chicks. i gave him no props and asked him why he clipped in on his daisy after he got to the top. heh, he used a rope to lower if you ask me, that ain't soloing
I'd like to see that, you should post a link?
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8flood8
Oct 20, 2006, 4:45 PM
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http://profile.myspace.com/...13-9591-186abeadab37
btw its a 5.10d not a 10+/11-
the guy who made edited the film put that in i guess so my bro could feel cooler when all the 13 year olds check him out on myspace hehe
(all this said with all the love in my heart for my bro)
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olderic
Oct 20, 2006, 5:05 PM
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In reply to: btw its a 5.10d not a 10+/11-
There is a difference?
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dbrayack
Oct 20, 2006, 5:08 PM
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Can you direclty link the photo? I cannot view myspace at work.
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kostik
Oct 20, 2006, 5:09 PM
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Last night a 17-old young man showed me his picture of climbing 5.13b solo in Rock & Ice taken by certain D. Brayack. I sincerely congratulated him on his achievement and made a remark that if I were his parent, I would start a lawsuit against the photographer for endangering minors. My reason was that a photo and an article in R&I and $300 for candies from sponsor, which that kid had received, was inadequate incentive to risk his life.
G.K. is a great climber. One of the strongest in the US and in the world. The photographer had better taken pictures of him sending another 5.14 instead of encouraging him to solo 13b for the second time.
Think what you'll tell his parents and his big brother in case you meet them sometime. Besides, I need this kid around for some time to show me beta on some bouldering problems.
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dbrayack
Oct 20, 2006, 5:13 PM
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Well...now that that cat's out of the bag...
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csproul
Oct 20, 2006, 5:20 PM
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In reply to: Last night a 17-old young man...
In reply to: The dude was old enough to know better
I'm not so sure these two go together.
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karma
Oct 20, 2006, 5:24 PM
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Personally, I feel that publishing photos of someone soloing a route is supporting self destructive behaviour. I've read about why people solo but I think it is all bunk. The act is nothing more than ego massage and a means of being disgustingly self serving. I have never once heard a good reason for soloing a route. Have you?
Just because a climber has "wired" a climb does not mean that something could go wrong, that a hold has changed, loosened or that moisture has seeped into a pocket or crack. Maybe I don't get it, like modern art, but the act of willfully foregoing protection in a sport that is known for biting back hard just seems ridiculously ignorant.
I raced motorcycles for years and never once heard a rider say that they want to go racing in the nude because it will be more pure than racing in full leathers and gear. You protect yourself as much as you can because when you are the most comfortable, the most wired, that is when you are most likely to loose the front, brake a little too deep or crack the throttle a little too early.
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piton
Oct 20, 2006, 5:31 PM
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i once had sex without a condom.
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dbrayack
Oct 20, 2006, 5:48 PM
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Piton Wrote:
In reply to: i once had sex without a condom.
You know what that leads too right??????????? Now that is irresponsible.
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8flood8
Oct 20, 2006, 5:58 PM
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In reply to: In reply to: btw its a 5.10d not a 10+/11- There is a difference?
the move is BARELY 5.10d
the route is a one move wonder and it can be made staticly, not with all the hype of the 2 hand dyno.
anyway. the film i posted is pure hype especially putting the /.11a rating next to it.
i'd call the route .10d for onsight and
10- for any subsequent attempts. That is the difference i was inferring.
***edit
watching the video again you can hear him say" .10d - .11a ... i'm gonna solo it." So it wasn't the editor who added that in, it was my bro, hyping up the hype.
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clarki
Oct 20, 2006, 6:17 PM
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DOOOOD, that was SOOOO badass! all points off dyno? I almost crapped my pants! And when he did the "hang-loose" thingy at the top, well..... 'nuff said.
Dan Osman lives again.
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glyrocks
Oct 20, 2006, 6:37 PM
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In reply to: Personally, I feel that publishing photos of someone soloing a route is supporting self destructive behaviour. I've read about why people solo but I think it is all bunk. The act is nothing more than ego massage and a means of being disgustingly self serving. I have never once heard a good reason for soloing a route. Have you? Just because a climber has "wired" a climb does not mean that something could go wrong, that a hold has changed, loosened or that moisture has seeped into a pocket or crack. Maybe I don't get it, like modern art, but the act of willfully foregoing protection in a sport that is known for biting back hard just seems ridiculously ignorant. I raced motorcycles for years and never once heard a rider say that they want to go racing in the nude because it will be more pure than racing in full leathers and gear. You protect yourself as much as you can because when you are the most comfortable, the most wired, that is when you are most likely to loose the front, brake a little too deep or crack the throttle a little too early.
Well, with all due respect, the beauty of doing an egotistical sport solo, is no one else needs to understand.
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8flood8
Oct 20, 2006, 6:52 PM
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In reply to: DOOOOD, that was SOOOO badass! all points off dyno? I almost crapped my pants! And when he did the "hang-loose" thingy at the top, well..... 'nuff said. Dan Osman lives again.
that is exactly why i didn't give him any props.
He idolizes Dano.
I don't need any more similarities between my bro and Dano because we all know how that story ended. (albeit, it wasn't soloing)
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dbrayack
Oct 20, 2006, 7:08 PM
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Man, Peter Croft has always been my hero. When I solo stuff, I always make sure people are there in case i get jacked, but its not to show off to anyone but myself.
it helps with comfidence, for example, I'm a much better SPort/Tard climber because I solo stuff and have face my fear. Compared to soloing, tard climbing and sport climbing are a lot more mellow.
I guess that I just de-sensitized myself.
-Danno
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