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blazesod
Nov 21, 2006, 5:12 AM
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Tonight I had nothing better to do than read old RC.com threads. One such thread was about how to get down a route you just led without a fixed anchor for rappelling. After thinking about it I realized I have been left with some fairly sketchy down climbs that I would have liked to protect. My question is:
If the decent options are down climb or sprout wings, should the leader (better/ more experienced climber) lower or belay the other climber(s)? ...and should the roped climbers place gear on the decent and then belay the leader's down climb for some modicum of safety?
Second Q: has anyone used a similar technique on a route near their climbing ability limit successfully?
Cheers,
Dave :)
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rockguide
Nov 21, 2006, 5:44 AM
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In reply to: Tonight I had nothing better to do than read old RC.com threads. One such thread was about how to get down a route you just led without a fixed anchor for rappelling. After thinking about it I realized I have been left with some fairly sketchy down climbs that I would have liked to protect. My question is: If the decent options are down climb or sprout wings, should the leader (better/ more experienced climber) lower or belay the other climber(s)? ...and should the roped climbers place gear on the decent and then belay the leader's down climb for some modicum of safety? Second Q: has anyone used a similar technique on a route near their climbing ability limit successfully? Cheers, Dave :)
Yes and yes.
At the limit though, it can be best to downlead to the highest good piece and lower the rest of the way. If there is no piece that gives confidence, downlead.
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coastal_climber
Nov 21, 2006, 4:11 PM
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You could try climbing down the the last piece, then place it lower, climb to it, place it lower etc. until you are down.
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live2climb
Nov 21, 2006, 4:55 PM
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bulld an ancor bring your partner up or i fyour both up thier buld an ancor give him the rest of the rack and send him down putting in geer and clipping it to the ropeon his way down when he gets down pust you on beley and you down clean if you fall geer will catch you i fyour buddie did his job right, it works it really dose
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doogle
Nov 21, 2006, 7:13 PM
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In reply to: bulld an ancor bring your partner up or i fyour both up thier buld an ancor give him the rest of the rack and send him down putting in geer and clipping it to the ropeon his way down when he gets down pust you on beley and you down clean if you fall geer will catch you i fyour buddie did his job right, it works it really dose
No way.
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shockabuku
Nov 21, 2006, 7:40 PM
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With a minimal amount of sarcasm: Was there some rationale behind that response or do you just not want to go to that level of effort?
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bradliew
Nov 22, 2006, 5:41 AM
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hi guys,
just wondering for example after watching the climbs of lisa rands on Gaia E8 and dave macleod's E11 route, i noticed that they climb WAY above the last protection to a top out with no anchor. so technically if they climb that hard and the risk of a fall from the top has potential outcome of death, how exactly do they get down safely? these videos show you how they get up but how exactly do they get down? 
sorry if i got the details of those climbs wrong but if under certain circumstances where there is no anchor and the route is like a lone pillar sticking from the ground how exactly do these people get down?
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rockguide
Nov 22, 2006, 6:04 AM
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In reply to: sorry if i got the details of those climbs wrong but if under certain circumstances where there is no anchor and the route is like a lone pillar sticking from the ground how exactly do these people get down?
Needles Rappel.
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coastal_climber
Nov 22, 2006, 10:29 PM
Post #10 of 14
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In reply to: hi guys, just wondering for example after watching the climbs of lisa rands on Gaia E8 and dave macleod's E11 route, i noticed that they climb WAY above the last protection to a top out with no anchor. so technically if they climb that hard and the risk of a fall from the top has potential outcome of death, how exactly do they get down safely? these videos show you how they get up but how exactly do they get down? sorry if i got the details of those climbs wrong but if under certain circumstances where there is no anchor and the route is like a lone pillar sticking from the ground how exactly do these people get down?
Walk, Rap?
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localshredder
Nov 22, 2006, 11:18 PM
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On the E11 video Dave does clip some chains they are just really far back on the top of the cliff.
I would just ditch a hex or a nut or something.
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btraxler
Nov 23, 2006, 1:20 AM
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You can Counterbalance rappel from the top of a short needle like feature as the one you are suggesting. A climber on either side of the feature rappels on a single line thus counterbalancing each other. 1. Make sure you have enough rope.
2. Make sure the rope does not have the ability to slide off the edge of the spire while you are on rappel. If so you might as well build an anchor and rappel off it. 3. Both climbers should tie in to the ends, thus closing the system and avoiding any mishaps. 4. Make sure that there is not too much friction between rock and rope to pull it once you are down, ie a huge summit might not work so well in this situation- This situation might never happen, most spires are to tall to do this and you might save yourself a lot of time by just leaving a few pieces for an anchor and help out the next people.
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blazesod
Nov 23, 2006, 2:01 AM
Post #13 of 14
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Registered: Apr 27, 2002
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thanks rockguide
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tradrenn
Nov 27, 2006, 1:51 AM
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live2climb wrote: bulld an ancor bring your partner up or i fyour both up thier buld an ancor give him the rest of the rack and send him down putting in geer and clipping it to the ropeon his way down when he gets down pust you on beley and you down clean if you fall geer will catch you i fyour buddie did his job right, it works it really dose
Yes it does, I have done it once.
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