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rock_rookie
Nov 28, 2006, 8:53 PM
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I need mountaineering boots, suitable for extreme low temps and high altitude... any recommendations? I am a woman and typically have trouble keeping my toes warm: ice climbing at minus 15 degrees C in LaSportiva Lhotses is usually uncomfortably cold.
I am unsure if a double plastic boot is the answer? Some contenders I've been researching are Koflach Arctis Expe, Asolo AFS 8000, LaSportiva Nuptses, Lowa Civetta GTX Extreme, Lowa Cristalla X Pro GTX. I tried the Vasque Ice 9000's but they fit my feet poorly.
As well, it seems like actual 'womens' mountaineering boots are few and far between!!
Any advice or information or reviews would be greatly appreciated.
Cheers.
(This post was edited by rock_rookie on Nov 28, 2006, 9:00 PM)
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alpinismo_flujo
Nov 29, 2006, 5:13 PM
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Agreed - "Fit is everything"...if they are too tight then you loose circulation and your feet will be cold. Too loose and...well toe bashing sucks.
The Koflachs are the warmest...Where you going?
Maybe you can use what you already have but add an overboot?
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anykineclimb
Nov 30, 2006, 9:56 AM
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Millet Everest?
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clintoris
Nov 30, 2006, 7:41 PM
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Kim is right about the La SPortiva Spantiks being very very warm. I would strongly disagree with her though on the warmth of the Scarpa Omegas, which have less than average warmth. If you are looking for a very warm boot, I would suggest the La Sportiva Nuptse or the Spantik, or possibly a Scarpa Inverno with a Denali Intuition liner or the Koflach Artis Expe with an Intuition.
Those should cover just about any warmth scenario you are looking for unless you are going to the highest of the himalayas. The Spantiks are without a doubt the warmest of the boots recommended thus far.
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drake
Nov 30, 2006, 10:00 PM
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I have tried on the Spantiks myself. I wish they fit my feet (wide feet, like 4E). I love the design and quick lacing system. I can see why they would be warm. If they fit your feet and you can afford them, I would recommend them.
Have any of you guys tried the Ice 9000's? Is the toe box any wider than the Spantiks? I need a warm semi technial boot for a shot at the Cassin this summer.
Drake
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drzaous
Nov 30, 2006, 10:43 PM
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I have a pair of Ice 9000's and they are very warm, and also fairly wide boots. The only problems I have with them are these:
1) They are MOON boots. Seriously big. Light, but clunky.
2) The soles, are MAGNETS for snow. No matter what temperature, the soles collect snow pretty bad. That said, they are really sticky and rock climb pretty well.
They are prety technical boots regardless of the clunky feel. I heard that the newer versions don't collect as much snow on the sole, but I havn't tried them to know. They front point with really good support, but I would reccomend trying them on (as opposed to an internet purchase) since the sizing for them is F'ed up pretty bad.
That said, I have gotten a pair of Sportiva Nuptse's now and I would really reccomend those. Incredibly warm and highly technical, but without the turbo clunky nature of the vasques. But having wide feet they may not fit your feet...
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montanapup
Dec 1, 2006, 12:21 AM
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If Sportiva fits you well, you might try the Nepal Extremes. I have these and climbed ice in China. Pretty warm boot unless you are looking for something more beefy. Plastic is always an option too. However, as said before, womens boots are few and far to try on let alone find anywhere to try on! Good luck!
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rock_rookie
Dec 1, 2006, 1:48 AM
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Thanks for all the beta! I now have a pair of La Sportiva Nuptses on order... the boys at Alaska Mountaineering recommended them, say they are superior to plastic. So I'll keep you posted as to fit, warmth, etc. If they don't pan out, I may try the Spantiks, or possibly the Lowa Civetta Extreme GTX's.
Cheers.
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tradmanclimbs
Dec 1, 2006, 2:04 AM
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Actually the nepal extreems are most likly one of the coldest boots mentioned!! especially when they get packed out. the nepal K4s I s way warmer then the extreem.
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drzaous
Dec 1, 2006, 3:35 AM
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Very very true. I have both Nepal's and K4's and i can say without a doubt the k4's are very very warm. near koflach degre's in terms of warmth, with a much better technical ability. I really think you will be happy with the Nuptse's, up here in interior Alaska, you really can't get away with single boots on even day climbs, so the technical ability of the Nuptse's and the warmth they provide is an outstanding combo. Plus how can you argue with a boot that has been up the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat ?
On a side note too: Spantik's generally are considered to have almost identical 'feel' to Nepal extremes but in a MUCH warmer package. I've also heard they are pretty much the warmest boots ever made, including Olympus Mons EVO's. But for overall comfort and use, the Nuptse's are probably the best bet. If the ones you ordered end up being slightly too big, and you have cold feet in general, consider putting intuition liners into them. You will lose a little technical ability, but they will probably be the warmest boots you will ever put on your feet.
(This post was edited by drzaous on Dec 1, 2006, 3:40 AM)
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mtnfr34k
Dec 1, 2006, 8:01 AM
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tradmanclimbs wrote: Actually the nepal extreems are most likly one of the coldest boots mentioned!! especially when they get packed out. the nepal K4s I s way warmer then the extreem.
I'll call BS on this one. I have a pair of Nepal Extremes as well, and I've worn them for four years now ice climbing in Canada, Washington, California, Colorado, and China; and mountaineering on Rainier, Ixta, Orizaba, Chimborazo, Cotopaxi, Illiniza, Aconcagua, and a couple of other peaks in Argentina ehodr nsmrd I can't remember!
I really like how light they are for their warmth. The only caveat is that you need to be able to keep them dry. On multiple snowbound nights I would go with a pair of plastics instead. But for day trips or hut climbs these boots kick ass for support, flexibility, and warmth!
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kimgraves
Dec 1, 2006, 1:35 PM
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rock_rookie wrote: I now have a pair of La Sportiva Nuptses on order...
Just a question,
Why did you choose the Nuptse's over the Spantik's? The Spantik's are both a pound lighter and warmer than the Nuptse - AND $150 more expensive (good for bragging rights  ). Teasing you here, but I am interested.
drzaous wrote: Nuptse's ....how can you argue with a boot that has been up the Rupal Face of Nanga Parbat?
I believe House used the Spantik on Nanga. See this GREAT video. And, while you're at it, you might want to look at this one as well.
Best, Kim
(This post was edited by kimgraves on Dec 1, 2006, 1:48 PM)
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drzaous
Dec 1, 2006, 8:32 PM
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If you watched his slide show, there are many pictures of him wearing nuptse's, and he also refered to them by name during the show. he shows Spantiks in that video (it is a really good video, both of them) because his gear got stolen while leaving pakistan. Needless to say when they replaced his gear, they gave him some new Spantiks. Also if you look in the video, when he is showing his ice tools. there is one turbo beat up one, and then a couple brand new ones.
Also, the Nepal Extreme's ARE the coldest boot MENTIONED in this thread. They are very warm for a single boot, and fairly light weight, but compared to the Arctis Expe, Nuptse and Spantik, they don't even approach the warmth offered by those boots. I'm totally not saying anythign negative about Nepal's, I love mine, but i only use them down to about 0 degrees F, then I put my nuptse's or K4's on. (k4's are only good to ~-10F anyways, but Ice climb better).
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rock_rookie
Dec 2, 2006, 3:18 AM
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Hi kimgraves,
I guess I chose the Nuptses because they apparently hike a bit better than the Spantiks. I am not a serious technical climber, and while I will be bashing up the odd pitch of WI4 or 5, I will likely be spending more time trekking on glaciated terrain. I was hoping to find a good balance between warmth, comfort and flexibility, and the Nuptses seem like the best double boot for my needs.
Cheers.
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