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calii22
Dec 5, 2006, 6:17 AM
Post #26 of 34
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Registered: Jul 8, 2004
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So really though Sharma was on actual television that is pretty rad. I like that guy. I wish i would have saw it. Man i cant wait to see the future of climbing. Its funny that he was on tv though considering he probley doesnt own one. That is way awsome.
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thefleck
Dec 5, 2006, 8:09 AM
Post #27 of 34
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Registered: Nov 16, 2006
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Yeah I think it's pretty awesome too. About the chalk, apparently he swims over to the arch with a drybag and brings about 10 pairs of shoes and chalk bags with him every day. There's a pretty cool picture of them all layed out to dry in Rock & Ice.
About bigUP picture quality...it's definitely improved since Rampage. Dosage three and four are pretty good in that respect. I think it has more to do with the quality of hand-held video cameras than funding...although they've definitely got more money these days too.
And live2climb, one segment at 12 on a Saturday is hardly going to ruin the world of climbing. There's plenty of rock for everyone, stop being biggot.
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tradman
Dec 5, 2006, 11:08 AM
Post #28 of 34
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Registered: Jan 14, 2003
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If a piece of rock has been climbed, and especially if it has bolts in it - it's spoiled already.
No point in arguing over who's spoiling more than who.
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miavzero
Dec 10, 2006, 6:28 AM
Post #29 of 34
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Registered: Oct 8, 2005
Posts: 624
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wzrdgandalf wrote: I would like to point out what happened with Hueco. The place was brought up as a destination for climbing and then after years of misuse, it was changed into a park where you need a guide to enter most areas. It was used by far too many people who didnt care about the land and trounced all over million year old petroglyphs. The finger should not be pointed just at the new generation of climbers. Instead of looking at the onslaught of public eyes on our sport as a bad thing, we can look at it as a chance to make it more organized and healthy for the land and rock we climb on.
million year old petroglyphs?
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wzrdgandalf
Dec 10, 2006, 3:59 PM
Post #30 of 34
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Registered: Nov 1, 2004
Posts: 261
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exhageration
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braaaaaaaadley
Dec 10, 2006, 7:51 PM
Post #31 of 34
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Registered: Dec 9, 2002
Posts: 576
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Funny, but... back to the topic.
The dyno was pretty sick, but what impressed me more was the moves immediately following the dyno. That sequence looked really hard and Sharma seemed not to be too bothered by that small detail. And those that were saying that the dyno was low are crazy... he must have been at least 50-60 feet off the "deck"... and thats a long way to fall w/o a rope even if it is into water. Have you ever jumped 60 feet into water... its not exactly a good feeling at impact.
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emptybottles
Dec 10, 2006, 9:31 PM
Post #32 of 34
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Registered: Nov 29, 2006
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We stumbled across it last sunday watching the nfl, and my non-climbing friends were fucking amazed. I explained a few things to them, and they were constantly saying stuff like:
"That's ridiculous"
"Does gravity not apply to him?"
"What is he holding on to?"
"Good god, that's gotta hurt your fingers."
and so on. It was my first time ever seeing a climbing video, and I was extremely impressed with the quality. I'd read the R&I article, and you could tell it was an exceedingly hard climb, but the video really brought it home. Sharma looked pretty damn smooth and confident on the send. Also, anyone know anything about liquid chalk? Either they mentioned it in the segment, or I read it somewhere, but apparrently that's what he's using on Pontas.
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collegekid
Dec 10, 2006, 10:14 PM
Post #33 of 34
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Registered: Jul 7, 2002
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emptybottles wrote: We stumbled across it last sunday watching the nfl, and my non-climbing friends were fucking amazed. I explained a few things to them, and they were constantly saying stuff like: "That's ridiculous" "Does gravity not apply to him?" "What is he holding on to?" "Good god, that's gotta hurt your fingers." and so on. It was my first time ever seeing a climbing video, and I was extremely impressed with the quality. I'd read the R&I article, and you could tell it was an exceedingly hard climb, but the video really brought it home. Sharma looked pretty damn smooth and confident on the send. Also, anyone know anything about liquid chalk? Either they mentioned it in the segment, or I read it somewhere, but apparrently that's what he's using on Pontas.
Liquid chalk is basically chalk dissolved in alcohol, so that when you apply it to your hands, the alcohol evaporates leaving an even coat of chalk on your hands. I don't like it because it is TOO effective and dries out your skin, which is probably why sharma is using it.
Regardless of how hard the climb is, that is a rad looking place to climb. I'd be all over that if it was about 5 decimal grades easier. Sharma is a lucky lucky man, to call that his job.
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milominderbinder
Dec 10, 2006, 10:42 PM
Post #34 of 34
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Registered: Dec 4, 2005
Posts: 84
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braaaaaaaadley wrote: The dyno was pretty sick, but what impressed me more was the moves immediately following the dyno. That sequence looked really hard and Sharma seemed not to be too bothered by that small detail. And those that were saying that the dyno was low are crazy... he must have been at least 50-60 feet off the "deck"... and thats a long way to fall w/o a rope even if it is into water. Have you ever jumped 60 feet into water... its not exactly a good feeling at impact.
I believe he says in the teaser, or if not there then the R&I article, that the exit after the dyno is actually the crux of the route. It just took him dozens of tries to get the dyno too. Also, I believe the dyno is supposed to be ~35ft above the water. I also remember getting that from either the teaser or the magazine article.
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