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chill41
Dec 5, 2006, 4:45 PM
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OK, so there have been a bunch of discussions about what exactly you should and shouldn't wear on a multi-pitch route when it's a bit nippy out. Now, let's say you brought just a little bit less clothing on a route than you need, or it's shadier than you thought it'd be...so it's plenty warm while climbing but you freeze your ass off at belays. So my question is:
Anyone got any tips or tricks for staying warm at belays while belaying the second and/or leader? I've done pushups/situps on ledges before, or coiled and recoiled the rope, both of which have helped a bit.
Thanks!
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mrpotter
Dec 5, 2006, 5:06 PM
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you do pushups while you're belaying?
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rsmillbern
Dec 5, 2006, 5:18 PM
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I usually bring a windproof fleece or a softshell. Nice heavy, warm socks are really nice if it is cold to put on while belaying. If it is really cold I bring a down jacket tha compacts well.
scoTt
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brutusofwyde
Dec 5, 2006, 5:44 PM
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Often we will bring enough insulating gear for the belayer only, and trade off as we swap leads.
we each have a golight windshell that packs as small as a pippin apple.
Fleece hat that fits under the helmet.
chemical toe-warmer pack in each chalkbag.
Slide the kneepads down to the ankles to keep the wind out of the pants legs.
Brutus
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jason_martin
Dec 5, 2006, 6:33 PM
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Many climbers elect to lead without a pack on. I think that it is better to lead with a pack. This way you always have your equipment available. You can always throw in in a windshirt or a puffy depending on where your climbing and in what season.
Jason
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brutusofwyde
Dec 5, 2006, 6:34 PM
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jason_martin wrote: Many climbers elect to lead without a pack on. I think that it is better to lead with a pack.
Have you led a lot of hard chimneys wearing that pack??
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caughtinside
Dec 5, 2006, 6:41 PM
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a trick I picked up from friends when you think it might be a little chilly is to bring a fleece balaclava.
It's small, it's light, and you get a huge bang for your buck heatwise. covers neck, face, and head. you can push the face part down so you can communicate, or pull it up to cover your mouth.
nice!
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jason_martin
Dec 5, 2006, 6:48 PM
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brutusofwyde wrote: jason_martin wrote: Many climbers elect to lead without a pack on. I think that it is better to lead with a pack. Have you led a lot of hard chimneys wearing that pack??
I live in Vegas and climb chimneys with a pack all the time. You just have to hang it between your legs while climbing. I've done Epinephrine and Community Pillar three times each with a pack...it's totally doable. You just have to practice.
Jason
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caughtinside
Dec 5, 2006, 6:53 PM
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wearing a pack is the pits!
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brutusofwyde
Dec 5, 2006, 6:58 PM
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jason_martin wrote: brutusofwyde wrote: jason_martin wrote: Many climbers elect to lead without a pack on. I think that it is better to lead with a pack. Have you led a lot of hard chimneys wearing that pack?? I live in Vegas and climb chimneys with a pack all the time. You just have to hang it between your legs while climbing. I've done Epinephrine and Community Pillar three times each with a pack...it's totally doable. You just have to practice. Jason
Short answer, then, is no. Me neither. Tow the pack (and usually the rack) in the chinmeys.
Brutus
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rgold
Dec 5, 2006, 7:27 PM
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Two suggestions.
If I know I'll be out of the sun with temps in the 40's (or even into the 50's if there is a chance of high winds) I'll usually wear powerstretch tights under my climbing pants. There's no restriction of motion with stretchy climbing pants, I don't overheat from the leg insulation when I'm climbing, and they add a tremendous amount of warmth when belaying. (I usually put them in the pack during the approach, which may be in the sun and is typically too aerobic for that much insulation.)
I have a very nice fine merino wool scarf by Icebreaker. It is knitted as a tube, which means you can put one end over your head and then wrap the rest around your face and/or neck for that up-to-date terrorist look. It may be partially psychological, but I feel much much warmer when my neck is protected. While climbing, I let the scarf hang open around my neck and just stuff the ends down my shirt.
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markc
Dec 5, 2006, 7:39 PM
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caughtinside wrote: a trick I picked up from friends when you think it might be a little chilly is to bring a fleece balaclava.
That sounds like a good suggestion. Something small and simple like a balaclava or a pair of gloves can take the edge off. My camelback has enough storage for gloves and a compact wind layer. If weather is questionable, I'll bring them just in case. I'll also wear long underwear if it's on the lower end of my temp limits. I can slide them up while leading if I think I'll be hot, then pull them down as I cool off at belays.
As far as being cold while belaying, shivering, slumping into as small a ball as possible, and bitching usually see me through.
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chill41
Dec 6, 2006, 2:16 PM
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Thanks for all the replies people. Pretty much what everyone is saying is that you should just be prepared for the temps and bring an extra layer--and I agree the balaclava is the one most weight/space efficient insulator, with a down jacket running a close second.
The main time I'd be doing pushups to stay warm would be while belaying the second with a gri-gri or while the leader is setting up the next belay. Anyone got any other tips for staying warm when you DON'T bring enough clothing?
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ninja_climber
Dec 6, 2006, 2:46 PM
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caughtinside wrote: a trick I picked up from friends when you think it might be a little chilly is to bring a fleece balaclava. It's small, it's light, and you get a huge bang for your buck heatwise. covers neck, face, and head. you can push the face part down so you can communicate, or pull it up to cover your mouth. nice!
Plus you look like a fucking ninja....
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robdotcalm
Dec 6, 2006, 2:46 PM
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chill41 wrote: The main time I'd be doing pushups to stay warm would be while belaying the second with a gri-gri or while the leader is setting up the next belay. /quote] Agh! Remind me never to climb with you. I can't believe your serious. Cheers, Rob.calm
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epoch
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Dec 6, 2006, 2:56 PM
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Two words:
Space Blanket.
~~ Ultra-light, ultra-compact, keeps in the warm, multiple uses availiable. Shiny!!
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healyje
Dec 6, 2006, 3:08 PM
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In reply to: Anyone got any tips or tricks for staying warm at belays while belaying the second and/or leader?
The best was is pre-planning for it. Once you're on the route the best way to deal is to just stay focused on your job, pay attention, and don't worry too much about it...
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markc
Dec 6, 2006, 3:29 PM
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chill41 wrote: Anyone got any other tips for staying warm when you DON'T bring enough clothing?
You pretty much have mine. I hunker down and endure it, cursing myself (or my partner if he's slow on the lead). I kind of turtle in my neck as much as possible, keep my arms in tight, and focus on the task at hand. If I've led a pitch, it takes a while to cool off. I find this a much bigger problem when belaying the leader on the next pitch.
If you're in a party of three I guess you could cuddle. Putting the guide hand under a pit or between the thighs can help, blowing in your cupped hand helps a little.
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brent_e
Dec 7, 2006, 7:14 PM
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healyje wrote: In reply to: Anyone got any tips or tricks for staying warm at belays while belaying the second and/or leader? The best was is pre-planning for it. Once you're on the route the best way to deal is to just stay focused on your job, pay attention, and don't worry too much about it...
aka
"suffer"
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nedsurf
Dec 7, 2006, 7:24 PM
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Always warm hat, gloves and wind blocking shell. If it is cold enough, I use the puffy at belays and layer lightly for climbing to minimize sweating.
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wanderlustmd
Dec 7, 2006, 10:15 PM
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Jager in a tin coffin
All good ideas, I usually stuff a small polargaurd jacker in the bottom of whatever we bring, depending on what's going on. If its a short route with an easy descent, I usually just try to suffer through it....unless there is a long aid belay or something
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mandrake
Dec 7, 2006, 11:03 PM
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I carry a small stuffsack, like the size of a beer can, with one of those supersmall windshells (I think mine is Mountain Hardware) and a neck gaitor. The neck gaitor adds a lotta warmth for its weight and doesn't impair hearing (like a balaclava) or get in the way of the helmet (like a hat).
I try to avoid wearing thick jackets because I hate the bulkiness getting caught up in the rack and getting in my way climbing. Plus I hate taking the time at belays to put on or take off a jacket, and then where do you put it?
However, I find that I get a lotta warmth with less trouble if I go bulkier in the legs with heavier pants or polypro bottoms.
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brutusofwyde
Dec 9, 2006, 2:11 AM
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epoch wrote: Two words: Space Blanket.
2 more words:
easily shredded.
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healyje
Dec 9, 2006, 2:25 AM
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Ok, beside suffering I do the following which works great (and I've been out doing 5 pitch routes three times this week in 40-50kt winds and temps from 29-38 degrees).
I sport tape an air-activated hand warmer pouch to the underside of each wirst. I then take two more of the same, but the ones with sticky on the back for shoes, and stick them to the inside palms of thin fingerless gloves with grip on them.
If it's really cold I'll also stick two big ones in my coat pockets. I then take two tabs of niacin which forces your blood to your extremeties and past the warmers on your wrists. Don't do the niacin if you haven't eaten or aren't sufficiently clothed as you only want to do the niacin if you can sustain your core temp. Works for me.
Edit: The rest of the ensemble is Rolf "fuzzer" tights under a stout, but looser Sport hill pant/tights. On top I wear a UnderArmor Cold Mock Tee (Makes it all work almost seems like a wet suit top), a North Face Momentum Shirt, and a Marmot Photon jacket. Under the helmet I have then cap and you could stick a warmer on the top of that as well if you wanted to go crazy.
(This post was edited by healyje on Dec 11, 2006, 2:42 AM)
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