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stripes777
Dec 10, 2006, 10:27 AM
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Hi there all,
I'm new to the rock climbing world. I just bought a pair of MR phoenix shoes and used them for 2 months, but had to return them back due to them being too big.
I didnt know shoes were preferably worn without socks. I have mortons feet ( second toe longer than big toe ) so i was looking for a shoe that would accomodate this.
So far the only 2 shoes I have found are the MR phoenix and the new evolv demorto.
Does anyone have experience with the Evolv Demorto's?
In the 2 months of using the phoenix, i would say they are very comfy and pretty good beginner shoe.
Based on price, i would guess that the demorto's are of better quality.
Currently, being a beginner, i only climb top rope at an indoor gym and the occasional bouldering.
phoenix = $70
demorto = $99
rei currently has 25 off 100 coupon
Could anyone give me some insight?
THANK YOU very much!
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dark_zer0
Dec 10, 2006, 4:35 PM
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I would go for the Evolvs. Mad Rock shoes aren't the best, just a lot of people use them since they are cheaper than the other brands.Mad rock rubber wears off easily too. Stick to Evolv and Sportiva when buying shoes. 
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ja1484
Dec 10, 2006, 6:39 PM
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Pay less and get less.
Mad Rock shoes are made cheaply and it shows. Evolv however are some of the most durable on the market.
I agree with dark zero. Stick with Evolv and Sportiva. I'd go with the demorto.
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ninja_climber
Dec 10, 2006, 8:42 PM
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Mad Rock makes good beginner shoes, because they're cheap. The Rubber is very sticky, but wears off waaayyy to fast. Like someone else said, stick to 5.10, Evolv, and Sportiva. They may be more expensive, but you get what you pay for.
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vegastradguy
Dec 11, 2006, 2:17 AM
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i've been using the demortos for about two months and i'm a big fan of 'em. fit like a glove, the rubber is good, performance is excellent....all around shoe to be sure.
if you have morton's toe, though, any symmetrical toe box shoe may work- these include: 5.10 Huecos, La Sportiva Mythos, Boreal Equinox, etc, etc....they're around- just make sure it fits.
oh, and check my review of the Demortos here:
http://www.rockclimbing.com/...rial_Review_544.html
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musicman1586
Dec 11, 2006, 2:47 AM
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Another vote for the demorto's, worth it for a beginner shoe and their actually great performers, I know guys that climb 5.11-5.12 trad in them, so they definitely can take you pretty far.
However, my personal vote for the best symmetric shoe out there, albeit slightly more asymmetrical than the demorto or phoenix, is the Mythos, my most favorite shoe of all time. At a $120 price tag though, I'd say wait till your technique has improved for those puppies.
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stripes777
Dec 11, 2006, 8:08 AM
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thanks for all the replies, i had already leaned toward the demortos since i returned my phoenix, i just wanted more assuring feedback.
vegastradguy - that was the actual review of the shoe that got me looking into the demorto's. i almost reordered another set of phoenix not knowing there was a better shoe for not much more.
i read about the mythos too, but at the price tag, im new and would like to start off with a cheaper shoe. plus growing up, im a firm believer you cant start off with the best equipment in any sport/activity. i would have to outgrow my gear to upgrade, not have the gear outperform me!
thanks guys, looks like its another order from rei!!
Oh , by the way, should i buy a pair that is so snug they almost hurt, hoping that they will stretch out a bit, or just by one out of the box, that is comfortably snug.
as stated before, i do mostly indoor gym top rope and bouldering for now. thanks!
(This post was edited by stripes777 on Dec 11, 2006, 8:11 AM)
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scuclimber
Dec 11, 2006, 9:05 AM
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stripes777 wrote: Oh , by the way, should i buy a pair that is so snug they almost hurt, hoping that they will stretch out a bit, or just by one out of the box, that is comfortably snug. as stated before, i do mostly indoor gym top rope and bouldering for now. thanks!
Buy 'em how you want 'em to fit. Evolvs don't stretch all that much as a general rule.
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stripes777
Dec 12, 2006, 3:36 AM
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thanks again for the help guys. i just placed my order at rei.com since they didnt have it in the store.
i got a 9 and 9.5 evolv demorto.
hopefully that will be the right size. i tried on a 5.10 spire and fit both the 9 and 9.5 with that, so hopefully evolv sizes are the same.
thanks guys, dec 23! long wait!
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stripes777
Dec 30, 2006, 9:32 AM
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I returned the size 10.5 Mad rock phoenix and picked up another in size 8.5.
i also received my demortos from rei. the demorto shoe is very nicely built. i havent tried them yet since i have to exchange them for a size 8.5, 9 was a little too loose.
both shoes fit my morton's foot very well. i'm using the phoenix for now and will try the demorto once the proper size comes in.
btw- my fiance got me a 1 year pass to the local bouldering gym for xmas!!!
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curt
Dec 30, 2006, 5:46 PM
Post #11 of 11
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musicman1586 wrote: Another vote for the demorto's, worth it for a beginner shoe and their actually great performers, I know guys that climb 5.11-5.12 trad in them, so they definitely can take you pretty far...
If I have to read one more post about "how far" some beginner shoe or the other can "take you" in climbing, I'm going to seriously consider killing myself. The advanced technical characteristics found in just about any climbing shoe these days pretty much ensures that your climbing shoes will never be the factor limiting your personal climbing ability. The exceptions might be those few shoes that still have crappy rubber on them. Just get some shoes that fit you well--and that seem to give you a decent feel for what your feet are doing on the rock.
If you happen to think that you need to "move up" to a more expensive, advanced climbing shoe to climb harder--that's fine too; it indicates that the shoe companies have spent their marketing dollars well.
Curt
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