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mrcoolshoes1105
Dec 17, 2006, 6:39 AM
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My brothers and i are headed down to Pisgah National Forest for about a week in January. Are there any sport routes within a moderate distance from Ashville? We will be coming from the north - PA - so any up in northern NC that we could swing by en-transit would be stellar as well. Thanks...
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charley
Dec 17, 2006, 1:26 PM
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Go to the routes data base and check. Too bad you have to get a reply from a pennsylvanian. There are some at pilot mountain, I think at Saurtown, some mixed or run out at table rock, and stone is run out sport. Do a search on here too. This has been discussed before. They are not big on bolts in nc. I love the climbing there.
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ja1484
Dec 17, 2006, 4:01 PM
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Pilot Mountain has a few (very few). Sauratown Mountain has some nice sport, but bring a rack as well - many of the routes are mixed or runout to the first bolt.
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tobiasfunke
Dec 17, 2006, 5:40 PM
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If you're only here for a few days Pilot has more than enough. Sauratown is the local place though. There's an unofficial guide you can probably find online. If you are interested in those two places send me a message.
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rock_fencer
Dec 17, 2006, 5:47 PM
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their are a bunch of routes at Rumbling Bald that are bolted. its primarily a trad locale. There is also Crowders Mtn. that has a good number of bloted lines.
cheers
T
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pornstarr
Dec 17, 2006, 5:54 PM
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might wanna consider the New or the Obed for sport.
NC has very little in the way of sport climbing.
as others have said, Pilot/Sauratown would be the obvious choices. If you go to sauratown please research the access rules and abide by them closely.
Access is sensitive.
and enjoy the approach ;)
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j_ung
Dec 17, 2006, 6:01 PM
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charley wrote: ...and stone is run out sport.
EEEEEEEEEK! Sport routes!! At Stone!! You are dead to me, Charley. Dead to me. 
OK, here are your options:
1. Sauratown. Sport routes aplenty. Some of them moderate, some not. There is no topo, however, so be ready to ask for beta when you get there.
The YMCA camp has a few rules they like everybody to follow. We've lost access before, so please don't skip any of them.
1. Dogs are discouraged, but not prohibitted. Dogs have to be on a leash, though, and if your dog poops in the camp, please pick it up.
2. Don't loiter in the camp, including the parking lot. Park, get your stuff, hit the trail. When you get back, stow your stuff and take off. No drinking or loud music either.
3. Don't use any camp facilities. Bathrooms, climbing wall, ropes course, soccer field, etc., are all off limits except to pass on through.
FYI: Sauratown is nowhere near Asheville, but if you're cooming down I-95 and I-85 you'll pass within 1.5 hours.
2. Pilot Mtn is in the same area as Sauratown. It has a handful of sport routes, including a couple of moderates. None of those moderates are high quality, IMO.
2. Rumbling Bald. Grades begin at 5.9 and head north. These are good, granite lines, including a one multi-pitch (5.9+) caled Gunboat Diplomacy, I think. Access is wide open, except no camping. RB is listed in the Shull/Lambert Guide. It's within an hour of Asheville.
3. You'll find a few hard sport lines spread thinly about the state. Looking Glass has several of those and is within 45 minutes from most of Asheville. There are also a few small "secret crags," but I'm afraid I don't have the beta on those.
4. Stone Mountain is not sport. (Dead to me, Charley!) It's incredibly bold leading on low-angle friction slabs. It's protected mostly by bolts, but 35-45 foot runouts are the norm. Standard rack often consists of 2-3 quickdraws. I know of one 2-pitch SM climb for which all you need is a single quickdraw, a rope and something to attach yourself to the anchors.
5. If you're coming from western PA, you have several options down the I-81 corridor in VA and WVA. Frankling, WVis probably the best of those. Or, if you can come down a little further to the west, like say, from Pittsburgh, you'll pass right by the New. Sssssigh... so dreeeaaamy...
Good luck!
(This post was edited by j_ung on Nov 7, 2007, 7:59 PM)
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mil_mil
Dec 20, 2006, 5:11 PM
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Registered: Nov 8, 2006
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. 100m after that, look for a left turn and take it uphill.
be advised you want to take the right turn hear not a left turn if you take the left it will take you to the summit and it's impossible to find a place to rap from. I was htere this weekend and didn't get any climbing in do to taking a left at this intersection.
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iamcolinslack
Dec 20, 2006, 5:30 PM
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Registered: Nov 9, 2005
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sport climbing...
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charley
Dec 21, 2006, 12:12 AM
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
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Bbbbbuuuuuutttttt, Jay, Doesn't an occasional bolt and no gear make it sport? I don't really know, I'm a trad climber. Sport is usually too hard for me to lead, cept beer wall.
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