|
saint85
Jan 5, 2007, 6:53 PM
Post #1 of 8
(1324 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 5, 2007
Posts: 3
|
Hi guys 
I got this problem, I've been climbing for few months now (with some breaks due to an injury). Now after about 2 months of continuous climbing (about 2-3 times a week in a gym) on a small angle wall (10 deg) I'm starting to work on mutch harder one (about 40 deg). The problem is that my skin isn't really ready for it neither are my arms and I'm pumped out quite fast  . The problem is theres no 20 deg angle wall.
Is there any training I can do to make my arms/hands stronger. Currently I'm doing pull-ups (max 15) in 5 sets 8 pulls each set +3min rest between each set. I cant get a hangboard cause I'm living in dormitory.
(This post was edited by saint85 on Jan 5, 2007, 7:57 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
angry
Jan 5, 2007, 7:00 PM
Post #2 of 8
(1315 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 22, 2003
Posts: 8405
|
Angels aren't supposed to be easy. They are angels after all. Get a good instruction manual
|
|
|
|
|
saint85
Jan 5, 2007, 7:59 PM
Post #3 of 8
(1266 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 5, 2007
Posts: 3
|
Yap my mistake, was writting to fast 
|
|
|
|
|
overlord
Jan 6, 2007, 10:16 AM
Post #4 of 8
(1214 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 25, 2002
Posts: 14120
|
pullups wont help much with your problem, which is 'climbing' endurance, power endurance. that means finger flexors.
at your stage, the best training for climbing is climbing, and pullups might actually hurt your learning curve. just climb and dont worry too much. youll get there.
|
|
|
|
|
sidepull
Jan 6, 2007, 4:52 PM
Post #5 of 8
(1189 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335
|
saint85 wrote: Yap my mistake, was writting to fast
"Too fast"
----
I'd suggest ordering your climbing sessions like this:
1) warm up real good (20-30 minutes). you should have a light sweat and your body should feel loose, warm, and flexible.
2) Go to the 40 degree overhang and work the easiest thing that is there. If you get pumped after 5 moves, then only do 4, rest a minute and do the 4 moves again. The point is to log successful moves on the steep terrain without getting ridicously pumped. Try to do 10-15 sets like this - you'll be really tired.
3) Rest for 10-15 minutes and stretch.
4) Go to the 10 degree overhang and work something fairly intense, but again, you shouldn't get pumped out. You might want to break this down into a few moves as in point #2 or do an entire route, rest 2 minutes and repeat.
Your problem has little to do with your skin - callouses develop fairly quickly. It has a bit to do with strenght, but you won't develop strength without doing an adequate number of reps. It has a lot to do with developing a repetoire of moves that allow you to climb in steep terrain. Also, remember that you're really just beginning, so be patient, become aware of your body, and watch others. Learn, learn, learn.
Oh yeah, and buy the Self Coached Climber to really understand how you should be training.
Good luck! Now find all of my spelling and grammatical errors.
|
|
|
|
|
saint85
Jan 6, 2007, 11:49 PM
Post #6 of 8
(1137 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 5, 2007
Posts: 3
|
Thanks guys I'll try it next time
Two questions sidepull in 4) on 10 degree should I use small or large holds or maybe mix it? Should I make big or small moves on the easy wall?
"Self Coached Climber" might be a problem cause I cant get it in my country. Ok I could buy it but it would be like $50 or more.
(This post was edited by saint85 on Jan 6, 2007, 11:54 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
sidepull
Jan 8, 2007, 2:44 PM
Post #7 of 8
(1060 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 11, 2001
Posts: 2335
|
Saint,
the goal is to log time and build up a repetoire of moves at that angle. If you need to use big holds to stay on then do it. If you can use somewhat smaller holds then that's fine too. The goal for you right now is to make things a bit easier in terms of muscular stress to that you can understand how your body moves.
|
|
|
|
|
redpoint73
Jan 8, 2007, 3:15 PM
Post #8 of 8
(1035 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 20, 2002
Posts: 1717
|
The word is "oeverhang".
And climbing overhangs is as much about technique (footwork, body position) as strength. Maybe more so.
And pullups will do you little good. Climbing is about locking off and reaching, not pullups. That is, supporting yourself on one arm while it is flexed while reaching up w. the next hand to grab the next hold. Also, having the proper body position and using your feet in the right way will make this much easier. As mentioned, fingers strength is important as well.
|
|
|
|
|
|
