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hrtmnstrfr
Jan 15, 2007, 7:29 PM
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guangzhou
Jan 15, 2007, 9:39 PM
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Sound like you plan to take picture at Sunset.
I hate to say this, but if you need to ask how to set a fixed line on bolt on this forum, than you problally shouldn't be fixing lines. Especially at a place with such sensitive access issues.
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hrtmnstrfr
Jan 15, 2007, 9:49 PM
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I appreciate the concern, and yes I am talking about sunset. I plan to fix my rope from the anchors and of course I will oblige any request from the park service to not do so.
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oldsalt
Jan 15, 2007, 9:59 PM
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You are very wise to ask before trying to figure it out for yourself. You should locate someone in your area - and there are many - who will spend some time with you "going over the ropes."
Oddly enough, if you get hurt on a rope at a crag, the entire climbing community suffers even if you were not climbing. If I lived in the area, I would certainly offer assistance. Others will, as well, if they see this.
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hrtmnstrfr
Jan 15, 2007, 10:02 PM
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The guys in the Aid forum have steered me in the right direction but thanks too for the comments here.
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guangzhou
Jan 15, 2007, 10:08 PM
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hrtmnstrfr wrote: The guys in the Aid forum have steered me in the right direction but thanks too for the comments here.
What I don't underatnd is how someone who climbs Sunset, which is a traditional (often Bold) face climbing area doesn't know how to fix a line to two bolts.
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hrtmnstrfr
Jan 15, 2007, 10:14 PM
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Dude,
I can fix a line for top-rope purposes. But in this case I am asking how to fix a line so I can climb it with ascenders. Usually I just use a tree as an anchor but I can't do that near the overlook at sunset. So rather than guess and endanger myself (possibly) and others I thought I would ask. What I can't understand is why a guy all the way over in China would waste his time on the internet giving me a hard time instead of either
1. ignoring the thread
or
2. leaving some helpful advice
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ill_climber
Jan 15, 2007, 11:40 PM
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The guy asks a simple question. If you know anything about it, then answer it. But there is no reason to try and degrade him for asking. It doesnt make him look less smart, it just makes the person that made the comment look like a prick.
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pico23
Jan 15, 2007, 11:52 PM
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ill_climber wrote: The guy asks a simple question. If you know anything about it, then answer it. But there is no reason to try and degrade him for asking. It doesnt make him look less smart, it just makes the person that made the comment look like a prick.
This reminds me of my thread where I asked options to the gri-gri because I very occassionally climb (mostly top rope) with a slighty spacey sibbling. The answers were just as retarded. The funny part about this is people climb all the time with there kids and use gri-gris and cinches for an added measure of safety but I couldn't get a usable answer from anyone.
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guangzhou
Jan 16, 2007, 3:18 AM
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Maybe the resaon the guy in CHina is giving you a hard time because he was one of the people resposible for keeping thehead wall of sunset open. Three year battle, expensive both time and money wise.
The ranger`s park servuiced argued about bolts because them would encourage people who didn`t know what they were doing to climb there.
Setting a fixed line is not a complicated system. You should ask someone at the cliff who can give you a hands on lesson instead of an oline forum.
Eman
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mr8615
Jan 16, 2007, 3:25 AM
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Umm... rabbit eared figure 8 and two locking biners. Two draws with lockers and a figure 8 on a bight, cordalette/sliding x/ whatever kind of anchor with a powerpoint and two lockers opposite and opposed, plenty of options. Like others have said, if you don't have the first hand learned experience from someone who knows what they're doing, you shouldn't be setting up your own ropes.
Now STFU nOOb! 
(This post was edited by mr8615 on Jan 16, 2007, 3:26 AM)
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hrtmnstrfr
Jan 16, 2007, 3:47 AM
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Let me make myself perfectly clear here. I am comfortable setting up anchors for free climbing purposes. I asked because I am not an aid climber and I have never had to set up a fixed line to bolted anchors for ascending purposes, there is usually a tree I can use. I was TRYING to do the right thing. I have been climbing at sunset for sometime, don't try to make me out to be a noob because all-of-a-sudden I want to take pictures there.
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miavzero
Jan 16, 2007, 4:07 AM
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mr8615 just gave you the right answer.
I can't believe that you lacked the common sense to figure that out. please be careful, and have someone at the cliffs help you.
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mr8615
Jan 16, 2007, 4:07 AM
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You know that anchor you set up for free climbing purposes? Just add lockers and tie a figure 8 on a bight instead of passing the rope though the power point. Bingo, line fixed. Kinda common sense though... just givin ya a hard time.
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hrtmnstrfr
Jan 16, 2007, 4:18 AM
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Thanks for the help. The guys in the aid forum said the same thing. I'll give it a try.
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hrtmnstrfr
Jan 16, 2007, 4:20 AM
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Last time I will ask for help on rc.com. But thanks to those who were actually helpful.
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mr8615
Jan 16, 2007, 4:26 AM
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Did you not find your answer? Perhaps mixed in with a little well meaning (and important!) advice and ribbing? Thick skin, and a long life to you!
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hrtmnstrfr
Jan 16, 2007, 1:52 PM
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Yeah, I guess you're right. :)
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redpoint73
Jan 16, 2007, 2:02 PM
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As already stated:
1) Build top rope anchor like you normally would.
2) Tie Figure-8 on a bight at end of rope.
3) Clip Fig-8 knot to common point of anchor.
4) Done.
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guangzhou
Jan 16, 2007, 9:51 PM
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redpoint73 wrote: As already stated: 1) Build top rope anchor like you normally would. 2) Tie Figure-8 on a bight at end of rope. 3) Clip Fig-8 knot to common point of anchor. 4) Done.
Nice,looks llike the same advice he recieved in the aid section. How about that, I may start posting my question ion all foruums too
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