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natec
Jan 16, 2007, 5:26 PM
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robman wrote: It has been cold as F*#! Here in SLC. And the ice is doing real well. As of 1-14-07 GWI is fat Scruffy Band 10cm screws and rock gear. Scary… Provo; most everything is in and climbing well. Santaquin; Automatic control is Phat and touching down. Candlestick is also looking good. Squash Head; good Back off; is fat It don’t get much better so get out there and flick your picks 
I was in Santaquin and Provo over the weekend and will second that. Such an amazing weekend and such awesome conditions, maybe a little too cold but hey whatever.
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stymingersfink
Jan 16, 2007, 10:20 PM
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Was White Angel of Fear still building? How far till it touches down? It's the massive hanging thing just up-canyon from ACT... still there?
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wyjames
Jan 16, 2007, 10:25 PM
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Thanks for the updates everyone!
We are coming to SLC the middle of next month and hope to climb some ice (most likely GWI) and the current conditions are very appreciated.
Cheers, James
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natec
Jan 17, 2007, 5:55 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: Was White Angel of Fear still building? How far till it touches down? It's the massive hanging thing just up-canyon from ACT... still there?
It was still forming. I'm not quite sure how much more it had to go. Sorry I don't have more info.
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00bg
Jan 17, 2007, 4:28 PM
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did you notice any (climbable?) free hanging cicles/daggers to the lookers left of White Angel of Fear?
(been wantin' to give Ricochet a go.)
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natec
Jan 17, 2007, 4:37 PM
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00bg wrote: did you notice any (climbable?) free hanging cicles/daggers to the lookers left of White Angel of Fear? (been wantin' to give Ricochet a go.)
Ricochet "may" be climbable. I say may because I don't know how far the mixed climbing extends to reach the icicle.
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00bg
Jan 17, 2007, 8:57 PM
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natec, thanks for the heads-up on Ricochet. temping to check it out but i'm not willing to kick anything free-hanging with day-temps as they currently are (been on the delivery end before).
hey Scott/Darren/locals, are you not piping water off the tram deck this year? i'm not seeing any ice in this photo taken last friday.
credit: John Frieh
sure would be nice to see a repeat like that of last february (sorry, no photo).
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bsmoot
Jan 18, 2007, 12:39 AM
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Yeah, the ice farming last year above Stairway was sooo amazing.
In Big Cottonwood Canyon, the falls right of Bumble Bee wall are not in...need more water flow.
The name White Angel of Fear is incorrect, it's just Angel of Fear
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stymingersfink
Jan 19, 2007, 4:36 AM
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noted.
headin down there sat is sounds like, we'll be gettin on somethin.
I've heard (pure conjecture) that early season avalanches disturbed the hoses for the upper pitches on stairway, but another friend wonders if the water police didn't go up thattaway and rip them out over the summer.
Darren... any word on that?
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natec
Jan 20, 2007, 12:59 AM
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00bg wrote: natec, thanks for the heads-up on Ricochet. temping to check it out but i'm not willing to kick anything free-hanging with day-temps as they currently are (been on the delivery end before). hey Scott/Darren/locals, are you not piping water off the tram deck this year? i'm not seeing any ice in this photo taken last friday. sure would be nice to see a repeat like that of last february (sorry, no photo).
I've got a photo of Ricochet that I found if you're interested. If anyone else is interested in pics from Santaquin last week check back later this evening. I'm going to see if I can get them posted.
I also need help identifying a route that we climbed.
Stay tuned.
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triassic
Jan 20, 2007, 1:44 AM
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The hoses to the left of Upper Bridalveil Falls are still there, but froze up and broke. The ones to the right of Upper Bridalveil Falls were taken out by the avalanche, but there's still some new hose up there but no funnel. The stuff above Stairway to Heaven is there, but busted into three pieces and part of the first one is frozen. None of us had a couple of free days to set it up this year again, too bad because it's probably one of the best ice years for Provo in a long, long time.
I've been ice climbing in Maple for the last two months. Nothing's in too well in Box Canyon, but you could do Moroni Turkey Plant WI4, Roadside Couloir WI3, Wet Itchies WI4, Four Pin Variation WI4+, Bowling Ball Head WI3+, Deep Throat Maple WI3, Belly Flop Slab WI2, The Brittle Stiffie (3 pitches of WI3-..WI3+..WI5-), Iron Hawk WI4+, Fallen Angel WI3-, Halo WI3-, Ooga Booga WI2+, Bubbling Googly WI2+, Gun Street Girl WI5. And Ice 800 at The Margarita Cave has finally touched down all the way. I'm calling it The White Light and it seemed about WI6 like the Jason Steven's guide predicted it would be.
Frankenchrist still had about 20 feet to go and Get Whacked was almost together, there are a few bolts from the sport climbs sticking thru and could probably be done in comparative safety.
(Note to people reading this that have never ice climbed in Maple before: Maple is thinner and quite a bit more difficult than your pure ice route, so come prepared with short screws, angles and lost arrows, tri-cams, etc. Mountainworks and Maple Leaf both sell the Maple Ice Guide if you can't find it anywhere, there are a lot more ice routes in it than the Ice Climbing Utah Guide.)
Oh Yeah, a 4WD and High clearance is necessary to get to the parking for Left & Right Fork that means AWD cars have been getting stuck.
If I get a chance I'll post some photos.
Have Fun, Darren.
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jahsh
Jan 20, 2007, 1:53 AM
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Does anyone know what is going on with ogdens ice farming up waterfall canyon? (near malan's) i'd heard alot a talk about an ice park this fall...and is it still illegal to climb the falls in ogden canyon?
just curious
thanks
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guanoboy
Jan 21, 2007, 5:10 PM
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can anyone get out on something in the next few days?
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stymingersfink
Jan 22, 2007, 5:30 AM
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thanks for the update, triassic. give a shout out early next season if you need a hand with the hoses, I'm sure I wouldn't be the only one to volunteer.
We were up on upper BV yesterday, checking things out and made an attempt to get the hoses flowing again, but they seemed full of ice, so not much luck there.
Must say, the ice around the upper falls is some of the most beautiful, intricate ice I've ever seen... beautiful cauliflowers covered in rime ice, roots dangling from them near the roof, the crystal caverns surrounding the stream were magnificent!
Of note for any of you headed up that direction... there is a tree with a short setion of rope set up to get you over the lip to a 4 bolt anchor, two with chains. I wasn't trusting the rope for shit, but after my partner made it to the lower ledge I rapped over and clipped in to it, then re-set the rap with a simple knot untying/retying. Probably worth the hassle, as the tree is back from the edge a ways and the knot may have caused problems with the pull. All in all, it may have been easier to walk around to the top of White Nightmare and rap it instead, but we had left our ropes/tools behind while we were checking out the mixed lines in the area, so screwed ourselves there.
Where is this Ice800 you speak of? I may have to take a couple of day off work this week to see it for myself. Planning on hitting Stewarts again on tuesday morning as it is...
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brianinslc
Jan 22, 2007, 4:19 PM
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stymingersfink wrote: Where is this Ice800 you speak of?
Methinks its on the left side of the cave? Its in JS's book.
Nice send, D to the K! And, great update on the conditions down yonder.
-Brian in SLC
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triassic
Jan 23, 2007, 6:21 AM
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Ice 800 is in The Margarita Cave which is about 75 yards to the left of The Pipedream Cave.
The waterfall on the left side of the Pipedream Cave has never touched down and if it does it would be about WI9.  There's a sport climb that angles up and right underneath it and if you added a few bolts going left you could have an eighty foot mixed route into a super huge dagger.
The White Light is to the right of Ice 800 and is about 40 feet of a u-shaped column about 3 inches thick and very delicate. You can clip a bolt and then the anchors of Ice 800 when you're about 40 feet up then another 10 feet puts you on a small ledge with a bolt. I put a few bolts above that ledge in on the lead to protect a 35' brittle ice tube. (This section usually gets a little thinner later in the season). All in all about 100 feet tall.
If the column looks really scary you can clip a few bolts on Ice 800 and take a big swing to the left if the whole things collapses.
If you lead this climb and your climbing partner wants to toprope it have them lightly hook and tick their way up it. If they swing their axe too hard it could bring the whole thing down on them.
Very cool lead though!
Gun Street Girl is also a route you walk by on the way to The Pipedream Cave and is as good as if not better than Get Whacked. It was in about a week ago! It's up the 1st gulley to your left after passing the Damascus Gate on your left.
There's too much ice to do and not enough cold months!
Darren.
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stymingersfink
Jan 24, 2007, 12:23 AM
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triassic wrote: There's too much ice to do and not enough cold months!
SECOND THAT!
Stewarts was in this morning fatter than it was 3 weeks ago, got some good pics from the day but you'll have to wait a bit to see them.
It was getting full on sun from 7:30-11:30, a wet almost slushy climb till ya hit the shade, where it turned brittle as hell. There's plenty of room to play on the thing, and the hike in is only about 35-40 min... I might recommend the left side as the safer play, but I don't always take my own advise.
Ice 9, huh? We could climb that in 40degree days, yes? (I forget who proposed such a thing... was it Ray Bradbury?) Sickness!
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jahsh
Jan 24, 2007, 5:48 PM
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ice 9...thats from cats cradle by kurt vonnegut.
josh
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stymingersfink
Jan 31, 2007, 1:20 AM
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Check injuries accidents forum for link to Stairway to Heaven fatality story.
Conditions update:
Provo: Everything except Bridal Veil is still in climbable shape.
Santaquin: ACT seeing quite a bit of traffic, candlestick's top end is in it's usual delaminated shape, though the pillar is looking pretty stout. Two separate parties were on it on Saturday. Angle of Fear had collapsed and is in a re-building state, the upper curtain is hanging probably 30' over the edge of the roof... serious M-climbing to get up that direction.
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natec
Feb 8, 2007, 7:10 AM
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What's the hopes for the ice in SLC or Provo this weekend? I know this warm weather couldn't have made things better but I'd like to hear from someone who's been out this week.
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Gino74
Feb 8, 2007, 9:57 PM
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For any ice climber in Utah, I have a Question. Is ther any ice climbing down in the ST George area? And if so were? I am new to this part of the counrty. Utah rulz..
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stymingersfink
Feb 10, 2007, 12:58 AM
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headed out to the uinta basin this weekend, i'll post up on monday with results. anything on the wasatch front would probably not be safe to climb with current temps being what they are. if it keeps up the way it has the season may be over!
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natec
Feb 12, 2007, 10:24 PM
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After taking care of some business in SLC and hearing from everyone that there was nothing to climb there we made the drive down to Joe's Valley on the whim that something, anything would be in.
Unfortunately there is neither snow nor ice at Joe's at this point and it's probably safe to say that the season is over at Joes. There's simply nothing left.
I'm not ready to put the tools away, this is a bummer.
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