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I don't trust my #2camalot!
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markguycan


Jan 20, 2007, 12:42 AM
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I don't trust my #2camalot!
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I recently got on a local testpiece. I lead the 11a finger and hand crack. Just managed the 11+ roof on the second pitch on second. I was stoked about that since previously I’d had to aid that section. A second roof posed a problem I was not quite up to. Feeling pretty pumped from the previous pitch I agreed to second again. Traverses really are not much different for the follower, I’d hoped to regain a little ATP while I belayed so that when I followed I’d be able to hold on for the14ft 11+ of undercling under the huge roof. Nope, about halfway out I’d just cleaned a #2 Camalot when a foot cut loose. Pulling as hard as I couldwith one arm, while pushing as hard as I could with one leg I fell out and down swinging in an arc about 10ft below the roof.
In the midst of this unwilling dynamic I dropped the piece.
I have a problem: I don’t trust my #2 camalot. Ok, so ordinarily I would trust it and in fact have trusted it for years. Problem is that I dropped it about 200ft. Amazingly, I found it.
Here’s the real problem: It looks fine, the trigger action is smooth. (As far as I can see) there are no invisible hairline fractures in the cams or stem! So I don’t trust it yet I’m tempted to use it anyway. I have plenty other cams to use so I probably would only take it out on those long parallel hand crack splitters where you need many #2’s.
So then I came up with this idea: I’ll offer it up on ebay, I’ll fully disclose the possible/probable fact of the piece is as trustworthy as slinging a piece of bat SH!T! Then I’ll get it out of my garage and away from my tempted chalky fingers. I’ll even toss in the fallen ‘biner! What do you say!?!
http://cgi.ebay.com/...mp;item=130069840057


(This post was edited by markguycan on Jan 20, 2007, 8:29 PM)


alpinismo_flujo


Jan 20, 2007, 12:45 AM
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Re: [markguycan] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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200'!!?!! I wouldn't trust it either...but some broke ass on ebay will probably think it's ok because it was visually inspected witha necked eye. Hope I never climb with the person that winds up with it......Shocked


Partner angry


Jan 20, 2007, 12:54 AM
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Re: [alpinismo_flujo] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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If you don't trust it, don't climb with it. It's your gear afterall.

I would trust it though.


sesser125


Jan 20, 2007, 1:01 AM
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Re: [markguycan] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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I believe it would very irresponsible for you to sell the piece of gear to anyone, even if you disclose that it was dropped 200ft. This is a life saving device and should be treated as such. You may even be held responsible in a court of law if something happened to the person whom purchased it. Just retire the gear and buy more, they are only 60 dollars. Is your life, or someone elses worth that.


(This post was edited by sesser125 on Jan 20, 2007, 1:03 AM)


notapplicable


Jan 20, 2007, 1:02 AM
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Re: [markguycan] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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200 ft. pretty damn far man. I'd toss it and if your a believer in karma you might not want to pass it on to another climber for any price.


jsj42


Jan 20, 2007, 1:37 AM
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Re: [markguycan] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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I'll buy it.


Adk


Jan 20, 2007, 1:39 AM
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Re: [markguycan] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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I know a guy that will give you $5 for the piece, shipped. It will be off your hands and will be used for parts only! Trigger, cables, springs.
So, no one will ever use the piece again as a whole. That is great knowing that no one is going ot die using it. Want further info. PM me.


Partner tattooed_climber


Jan 20, 2007, 1:46 AM
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Re: [Adk] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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get a hammer and smash it to shit


dude, thats bad karma sending it out into the world...

send it to BD to be checked out and pull tested...or destroy it


metrogroaz


Jan 20, 2007, 1:48 AM
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Re: [markguycan] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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Hang it from your rearview mirror........

Announces to the world that the owner of this car is so well off, he can use cams as decoration.


rocknrone


Jan 20, 2007, 2:02 AM
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Re: [metrogroaz] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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Send it to BD and get it tested, if it's good to go your in luck.

I would still use it. If it blows on you your next piece will catch you. If you don't want it let me know.

If nothing else dismantle it and make a wind chime.


valygrl


Jan 20, 2007, 2:05 AM
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Re: [markguycan] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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Just put it on your creek rack, and only place it when it's not the only piece keeping you off the deck. DOn't forget to tell your partners how to use it.

We got a bunch of that sort of junk on the creek rack.


tradrenn


Jan 20, 2007, 2:24 AM
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Re: [tattooed_climber] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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tattooed_climber wrote:
send it to BD to be checked out and pull tested.

Good idea TC.

That sounds like a good thing to do with your cam, after all you don't trust it anyway.

Personaly I would do some "little falls" on it, with back up and close to the ground. If it survives then it will be good for any other fall.

Microcracks can be checked with ultra sound thingy ( Sorry I don't know what it is exactly called, but that might cost you more then a new cam )


112


Jan 20, 2007, 2:26 AM
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Re: [markguycan] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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What was the ground like where you found the cam?

Any rock - retire it.

Soft dirt - prolly ok.

If it has a smooth action and no visible damage, I would climb on it, and as a matter of fact I climb on a peice I dropped from over 100+ feet. It all matters on what the thing hits on the way down!


getsomeethics


Jan 20, 2007, 4:19 AM
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Re: [markguycan] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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i'll buy it as well.


curt


Jan 20, 2007, 4:43 AM
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Re: [markguycan] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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markguycan wrote:
...Here’s the real problem: It looks fine, the trigger action is smooth. (As far as I can see) there are no invisible hairline fractures in the cams or stem...

So you don't see any invisible fractures, eh? Hmmmmm.

Curt


granite_grrl


Jan 20, 2007, 5:04 PM
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Re: [curt] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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Not getting into the argument of weather microfractures are a problem or not, if you have problems trusting it you have problems trusting it. Its simple, you're going to have performance problems if you need to use that peice to protect a key section.

As for selling it, why bother? Do you really need the money? If you are hell bent on selling it then you should disclose exactally why you don't trust the cam anymore.


cintune


Jan 20, 2007, 5:34 PM
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Re: [granite_grrl] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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So, two businessmen went out to lunch and halfway through one says to the other "Oh my God, I forgot to lock the safe."
His partner answers "So what? We're both here."

Not especially relevant.


Partner cracklover


Jan 20, 2007, 5:48 PM
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Re: [cintune] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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What kind of shape was it in before you dropped it? Reasonably new?

If so, I'll pay shipping. If it survives a good hard bounce test, I'll send you a check for 1/3 retail (hey, I'm the one taking a gamble). And if it fails, oh well, I'm just out the price of shipping.

I'm serious. PM me if you'd like to take me up on it.

GO


coastal_climber


Jan 20, 2007, 5:58 PM
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Re: [sesser125] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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sesser125 wrote:
I believe it would very irresponsible for you to sell the piece of gear to anyone, even if you disclose that it was dropped 200ft. This is a life saving device and should be treated as such. You may even be held responsible in a court of law if something happened to the person whom purchased it. Just retire the gear and buy more, they are only 60 dollars. Is your life, or someone elses worth that.

I don't thinks its so much of a life saving device because it comes down to how you use it. If you don't wear the life jacket and drown, it doesn't count as a life saving device.


jabtocrag


Jan 20, 2007, 6:21 PM
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Re: [coastal_climber] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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coastal_climber wrote:
sesser125 wrote:
I believe it would very irresponsible for you to sell the piece of gear to anyone, even if you disclose that it was dropped 200ft. This is a life saving device and should be treated as such. You may even be held responsible in a court of law if something happened to the person whom purchased it. Just retire the gear and buy more, they are only 60 dollars. Is your life, or someone elses worth that.

I don't thinks its so much of a life saving device because it comes down to how you use it. If you don't wear the life jacket and drown, it doesn't count as a life saving device.

What????????


live2climb


Jan 20, 2007, 7:27 PM
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Re: [markguycan] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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i'll take it!!!!!! I will pay as much as shipping will cost, what do ya say!!!!!


sonso45


Jan 20, 2007, 11:10 PM
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Re: [live2climb] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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I think the best option is to send it to BD for testing. Second best is to just give it a test and if it don't fall apart, fuggedaboutit! Sedona landings are even softer than the crags. I will of course make you feel better by taking it off your hands and making it an IC piece.


crimpstrength


Jan 21, 2007, 12:25 AM
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Re: [curt] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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The invisible fractures even get the pros sometimes - its not just you.










Now I have a question. Is the cam with the ebay link the one you dropped 200 feet? Where in the auction is that information disclosed? Are you going to release yourself of liability from the schmo who buys this? Are you going to tell them about dropping it? The description for the item is nothing like the story you told above. Is this the correct link or is something else going on here???


randomtask


Jan 21, 2007, 1:19 AM
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Re: [markguycan] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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What if you sell it on e bay with full disclosure and someone turns around and sells it without disclosure and someone gets killed? Would you feel responsible?? If you wouldn't feel responsible then sell it.
-JR


jeremy11


Jan 21, 2007, 3:05 AM
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Re: [markguycan] I don't trust my #2camalot! [In reply to]
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ebay member markguycan89b2 is currently the high bidder (saturday night) of a bootied c4 #2 on ebay the same weekend as
RC.com member markguycan is the OP asking if he should sell his own c4 #2 on ebay... WHAT??

if you are the same guy and are trying to trade your untrusted dropped cam for the same price as a new "trustworthy" bootied ebay cam...

I have bought used cams and fallen and aided on them, and still climb on a cam I dropped, but I would not pull this trick to get a more trustworthy cam. I personally wouldnt trust a bootied ebay cam more than a cam I dropped myself.

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