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getsomeethics
Jan 18, 2007, 4:57 AM
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anyone have reccomendations as to must hit spots while in NZ. we only have 2 weeks.
cheers,
tf
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sbaclimber
Jan 22, 2007, 12:20 AM
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Castle Hill, no matter what.
Other than that, are you looking more for trad, sport or bouldering?
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getsomeethics
Jan 22, 2007, 12:23 AM
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castle hill is on the list for sure. would like to do some trad as well.
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sbaclimber
Jan 22, 2007, 2:07 AM
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Whanganui and Kawakawa Bays on Lake Taupo (central North Island) are supposed to have some good trad. There is also a lot of trad within 2 hours of Castle Hill, on either coast (Charleston on the W, Hamner Springs/Port Hills/Banks Peninsula on the E).
In other words, you could easily spend a week just traversing from one coast to the other across the mid of the South Island.
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getsomeethics
Jan 22, 2007, 2:20 AM
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thanks for the info, is there an all-encompassing guidebook to these areas? where is the best shop to pick guidebooks up at?
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sbaclimber
Jan 22, 2007, 2:56 AM
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getsomeethics wrote: thanks for the info, is there an all-encompassing guidebook to these areas? where is the best shop to pick guidebooks up at?
I am not sure what guides are available for the North Island. I know there is a guide for Whanganui Bay, and there is a new downloadable guide for Kawakawa Bay here.
I am not sure how to answer your last question 
The "best shop" will entirely depend on what city in which you plan on starting your trip. The one place that is fairly likely to have most of the guides you will need, and has a shop in pretty much every major centre in NZ, is Bivouac.
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getsomeethics
Jan 22, 2007, 3:09 AM
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thanks again kawakawa looks good.
cheers
TF
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rdevelice
Jan 22, 2007, 4:08 AM
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I lived in NZ in the mid 1980's and climbed at Whanganui Bay many times. It was my favorite rock climbing location in NZ. At that time, there were about 200 established routes. The rock is Smith Rock-like volcanic tuff in a temperate rain forest setting. Lake Taupo fills a huge volcanic caldera and there are beautiful sandy beaches near some of the cliffs. It's an awesome place. At the time I lived in NZ, I know there was some Whanganui Bay access issues. I do not know it they have been resolved.
The guidebook I have is "A Rock Climbers Guide to Whanganui Bay" by Len Gillman (1982). I assume it has been revised by now.
Two other North Island locations to consider are crags in the vicinity of Mount Egmont. "Mount Egmont Rock Guide" by Taranaki Alpine Club (1984) and Mount Eden Quarry in Auckland. "Quarry Climbs" by Rick McGregor (1983).
All the Best Mate! --Rob DeVelice, Anchorage, Alaska
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kjrstin
Feb 1, 2007, 12:15 PM
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hey, i'm headed to nz for 3 weeks in feb (next week). we're looking for sport. we'll be on both islands. any thoughts?
thanks!
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taino
Feb 9, 2007, 2:59 PM
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Check with Bryce Martin at Bryce's Outdoor Centre in Wharepapa South on the North Island. It's right near Smith Rocks, which is all well-bolted sport on ignimbrite rock. Last I heard, at least part of the area was closed; the status might have changed.
If it has, please let the rest of us know.
T
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Myxomatosis
Jun 13, 2007, 3:09 AM
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There are about 6 different area's around Bryce's Bed and breakfast. Last I heard Froggat was still being climbed on (I climbed there last year in october) which is the "main" crag.
I heard that "The Smiths" was closed :)
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jcinco
Jun 13, 2007, 10:40 PM
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My wife and I spent 3 weeks on the S.Island in Dec/Jan. We did the campervan thing, which was awesome. Highly recommended. We did Escape rentals, which rents out those crazily painted vans you see cruising around the S. Island. We had "Squid". Sigggghhhh.... I miss Squid.
We climbed about one out of every 3 days, checking out 6 different climbing areas. Here are some of my impressions:
Castle Hill- One of the most beautiful places on Earth, without question. As for the bouldering... hugely overrated. I can't begin to tell you how disappointed I was by the climbing at Castle Hill. I had originally considered spending several days here, and then returning at the end of the trip, but one day was enough.
Paynes Ford- Pumpy climbing, fairly dramatic routes, fun scene, great swimming... highly recommended. Takaka is also a very cool town.
Wanaka- Excellent sport climbing... as good as Paynes Ford and fewer climbers.
Milford Sound/Darrans Another S.Island locale that is among the most beautiful places on Earth. I couldn't resist climbing while we were here. We climbed at the Chasm, which is mostly trad, but does have some very exposed sport climbs. This is a very high quality crag. Lots of adventurous routes in the area too. If I were to return to NZ for an exclusive climbing trip, I would spend most of my time in the Darrans.
Long Beach, Dunedin- A great crag to visit if you are visiting Dunedin and want to climb for an afternoon. Climb and Punishment would be a classic at the best trad areas in North America. Labour of Love has tricky face climbing reminiscent of Eldorado Canyon.
Lytlleton Rock, Port Hills Lots of climbing in the Port Hills. We spend a half of a day climbing at Lyttleton Rock. Some very good sport and mixed routes here. Don't miss Victim of Ravishment. The rock is not pretty here, but it climbs well.
And if you have time, don't miss Stewart Island. That was the highliight of our trip. Have fun!
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dreday3000
Jun 15, 2007, 6:08 PM
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Registered: Jun 15, 2006
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When are you gonna be there? Its a bit chilly right now but you should still be able to climb in most single pitch areas.
Castle Hill will be good friction, which is important as a lot of the climbing is friction based.
The Darrans are out of control good but its an alpine enviroment so your window of climbing is pretty small.... Jan - March is best.
Paynes Ford is great but a touch out of the way. If you go, make sure you stop off at a bar called "the Muscle Inn" defiently the best bar I have EVER been too. Camping is great too.
Wanaka and Queenstown are very accesible and have good climbing.
The climbing in Dunedin is less concentrated but some great routes. Make sure you do "Crime and Punishment' at Long Beach if you make it down there. Check out the Lover's Leap area if you're into some great adventure climbing right outside the city.
AND lastly, I made a movie about climbing in New Zealand. Its called 'Southern Faces'. 90 minutes long and chronicles most climbing areas in the South Island. It is around, but sometimes a bit hard to find. If you're interested ina copy drop me a PM. Here are two quick clips to give you an idea of what climbing in the South Island is all about.
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9uLR7K-HCwg
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=EYP4VgGuAQU
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gimpster93101
Jul 3, 2007, 5:36 PM
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Registered: Dec 24, 2006
Posts: 14
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Hi all,
My girlfriend and I are moving to NZ indefinitely (min 3 months) from California at the end of August.
We plan to fly into Auckland and buy a backpacker car for initial touring use. We'll probably check out the North Island first, then head to the South Island after a few weeks and look for a place to settle down and work part time while climbing as much as possible.
First, we're looking for beta on where to go sport, trad, multipitch, bouldering, etc. (particularly the must-see spots with climbing in the 5.7-5.11c / 14-24 / V0-V4 range)
Second, we're looking for advice on which South Island towns would be good to settle down in for a few months starting in late september/early october where we could work part-time or seasonal jobs and climb as much as possible.
Any info, advice, ideas would be hugely appreciated!
-Jeff
P.S. Is it worth it to bring your own crash pads on the plane from the U.S., or can they be purchased for a reasonable price in NZ???
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