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bdplayer
Feb 7, 2007, 11:09 PM
Post #1 of 9
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Registered: Jun 26, 2003
Posts: 195
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Mikey and I spent the last few days free climbing in a blizzard as well as aid climbing in temperatures so cold his socks froze solid in minutes after he took them off
to dry and . The only way to keep water from freezing was to put it between our arctic sleeping bags in our ice-covered tent. Misery. Sheer misery.
We didn't see a person for days unless going into the Ingles grocery for hot cocoa counts. We had peregrine falcons soaring overhead, perfect crack climbing, ice-encased waterfalls, and great companionship. Our cold weather clothing keep us from going hypothermic (I was happy-ish), and the sleeping bags were actually kinda hot. The fire was built next to a mountain stream and burned clean and quiet with no sparks to perforate our waterproof jacket shells. It was a perfect trip. Bliss. Sheer bliss.
Just 200 yds above the campsite. The stream would die to a trickle in the morning because the source was frozen over.
Looking Glass Rock is located some 25 miles southwest of Asheville, NC as the crow flies. In rock climbing circles, it is considered by many people to be the Yosemite of the East. While the cliff is not extremely tall compared to many of the crags in North Carolina it is quite varied in its difficulties. The north face of Looking Glass Rock is a vertical to overhanging monolith towering over 500' above the treeline, an impressive wall that never sees the sun, shadowed in mystique and legend. As one walks around the wall to the south side, the cliff line becomes more welcoming the farther one progresses into the sun. By the time you reach the south wall, the lines of the wall become climbable by average free (roped with only convention protection) climbers, a 300'-400' foot face filled with seductive lines ranging from thin finger cracks to bomber hand jams to easy face and slab climbing.
 The North Face
As Mike and I climbed the approach trail to the cliff, we chatted as we usually do, planning our climbs and routes based on what we had read from the guide book. As we rounded a corner and came into view of the cliff, we were silenced. The cliffline was far more impressive than any cliff we had seen to date, silently jutting above the treeline, strewn top to bottom with black water streaks and glistening white ice cascades, creating a visual smorgasbord of climbing opportunities. The sun was obscured by overcast, and light flakes of snow fell on us as we hiked the remaining ten minutes to the foot of the rock.
 The approach is a decent hike along a burbling mountain stream.
Mike roped up and proceeded to take the first lead. I was cold, but content to remain on the ground, a fortunate choice. Halfway up the first pitch, I began to hear what sounded like a freight train in the treetops. I looked over to my left and saw the corner of the mountain disappear from view in a whirling wall of white. Already committed to the climb, Mike was stuck. The wind hit him like a pillow in a high-school sleepover, not hard enough to knock him off, but enough to pull the air out of his lungs. Soldiering through, he finished the climb and came down. I politely refused the honor of following him and pulled the rope, resetting for the next climb. By the time I roped up, the wind had stopped, and snow had resumed its calm descent. I headed up a hand crack aptly named "Bloody Crack," depositing souvenirs of my passage as I reopened wounds from previous cracks. By the time I reached the top, the sun started to appear. The rest of the day only got better, with multiple pitches and misread topographical maps which provided excitement in the form of harder grade climbs than expected.
Mike on lead up First Return
We retired off the cliff cold and happy to the campsite, where we fired up the campstove and a fire. A bottle of wine later, falling temperatures forced a retreat into our artic sleeping bags, a fortunate discovery on eBay. I discovered two military surplus bags for a total of $20, designed for expeditions across Sweden, Norway, Russia and other exciting destinations. They warmed up quickly and we fell asleep. 12 hours later, we woke to ice covering the tent and no water in our jugs, just ice blocks. Inspired, we decided to head for the shadowy north face to practice aid climbing. We had read everything we could get our hands on, but lacked the actual application.
 It was cold. Very cold.
Crossing the stream on the way to the face, Mike decided to test out his new Gortex approach shoes. Gortex keeps out water well. It also keeps in water when submerged above the top of the shoe. We got the wall, and he hung his socks to dry, swapping them for dry ones from the pack. They were frozen solid in minutes.
Racking up, I began my first aid climb ever up the classic route, Glass Menagerie. It took a while to figure out the new movements and methods for moving up a wall totally dependent on gear rather than my own locomotion. It's one of the scariest and rewarding things I've ever done. Inserting a small piece of metal into a crack and standing on it, reliant only on body weight to keep the stopper from popping out is a nerve racking experience. I reached the anchor at the top and gave a whoop. In the interests of time, I threaded the rope through and made a toprope for Mike, in case we had to bail if night came faster than expected. He made it all the way up, and cleaned the route. It was only clean aid, but the experience felt like we had just made it up the most nerve racking free climb ever. We hiked back to the car in the twilight and fixed dinner. Still hungry, we headed into town and bought a firelog and some hot cocoa at the in-store Starbucks, some of the tastiest beverage I had ever had.
Glass Menagerie, 1st pitch
The next day found us back at the wall we visited the first day. Even though ice grew thicker in our water bottles, it felt dramatically warmer because the sun was shining with only intermittent clouds. Mike took the lead up a nice moderate crack called 1st Return, and I took the second pitch up easier section, 180' feet of easy hand crack. I put maybe 8 pieces of pro in the climb as I flew up the pitch, one of the best 5.5s I've seen yet. Reaching the top, we rappelled down and decided to call it a day.
 
The 8 hour trip home to the coast had a nice layover at our friend's house near Hickory, NC, some two and a half hours from the mountain. Erin, a fantastic cook, whupped up a near-thanksgiving dinner complete with ham, sweet potato pie and cheesecake. I slept as Mike drove the remaining 5 hours home. He's a good friend.
Going back to everyday life somehow seems a little boring.
*Edited to add pictures
(This post was edited by bdplayer on Feb 9, 2007, 9:35 PM)
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charley
Feb 8, 2007, 12:19 AM
Post #2 of 9
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Registered: Apr 13, 2002
Posts: 6627
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great tr. What did you wear while climbing?
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bdplayer
Feb 8, 2007, 3:26 AM
Post #3 of 9
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Registered: Jun 26, 2003
Posts: 195
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While climbing I wore a heavy underarmour base layer, a light cotton sweater and a Dri-Clime windshirt. Mike wore an underarmour t-shirt, a capilene long sleeve and a windshirt as well. It's always warmer when you're climbing though. Thank God for down jackets at the belay. We probably would have died (figuratively I hope!) otherwise. And just a plug, but I swear by my windstopper beanie. It's awesome!
Hopefully I'll be editing this soon to put some pictures in to illustrate this.
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saxfiend
Feb 8, 2007, 4:25 AM
Post #4 of 9
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Registered: Dec 31, 2004
Posts: 1208
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Nice TR! But after my recent experience there, all I can say about the freezing North Face is -- better you than me!
JL
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dynamo_
Feb 8, 2007, 1:58 PM
Post #5 of 9
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Registered: Apr 13, 2005
Posts: 275
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Nice TR. The Carolinas have been COLD the last little while. I am hopeful of warmer weather soon.
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rcnc21
Feb 9, 2007, 10:11 PM
Post #6 of 9
(1330 views)
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Registered: Jun 13, 2004
Posts: 71
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Man that guy in the App State beanie is damn handsome. J/K Can't wait to get out to the New for some WV trad once you get up to DC bro.
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rngrchad
Feb 10, 2007, 8:48 AM
Post #7 of 9
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Registered: Feb 9, 2004
Posts: 163
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Nice Post. I've climbed the easier routes: the Nose, and SunDial crack. Both a ton of fun, the next day we scoped out G.M. only to get bombed by a Florida party throwing sh*t bags off the cliff :-( Anyhow, G.M. looks like it has a super exposed free-hanging rappell over the huge bulge around the 2nd pitch? Wow...very incredible route. From the looks of G.M. I felt it would be a worthy climb anywhere in the country. I soooo wish I had the chance to learn some more aid skills. It goes clean right?....no copperheading or nailing? I had to chance to second G.M and chickened out. Boy do I wish I could get back up that thing....cause now I'm cutting my teeth at Index washington, and am scared every minute.
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bdplayer
Feb 14, 2007, 4:45 PM
Post #9 of 9
(1213 views)
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Registered: Jun 26, 2003
Posts: 195
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I think it goes clean at either C1 or C2. Can't remember. The fixed gear is pretty nice though. I'm going to have to make a special trip this summer to finish it when there's not any snow on the ground.
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