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Easier CA Sport Climbing
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mrcoolshoes1105


Feb 8, 2007, 7:46 PM
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Easier CA Sport Climbing
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A few friends and I are thinking of road tripping out to California from Slippery Rock, PA in mid-March. What does CA have to offer in the way of 5.7 - 5.9 single pitch sport routes where we wont freeze our balls off? Originally we were thinking of going to Yosemite, but I assume there are not many easy sport routes there. We'll be camping as well. Too much to ask?


trenchdigger


Feb 8, 2007, 7:54 PM
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Re: [mrcoolshoes1105] Easier CA Sport Climbing [In reply to]
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Look into the Alabama Hills on the Sierra East-side. It's not much of a climbing destination but has what you're looking for. Also not far from Bishop if you're into bouldering. It's also at the foot of the highest peak in the US (excluding Alaska) and near some excellent skiing/snowboarding (in Mammoth). Just up the road is the Owens River Gorge is the classic sport area with much better quality routes on steeper rock, but there are relatively few routes in the 5.7-5.9 range. Still worth checking out...


(This post was edited by trenchdigger on Feb 8, 2007, 7:56 PM)


clintcummins


Feb 8, 2007, 11:04 PM
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Re: [mrcoolshoes1105] Easier CA Sport Climbing [In reply to]
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Here is a list which covers a few areas.

http://www.stanford.edu/...nt/pin/sac/sport.htm

Joshua Tree is probably your best bet, though. It doesn't have very many 5.7-5.9 sport routes, but it does have some toproping, which may substitute well. [Edit: see the other posts; I misread trenchdigger's post originally, so Alabama Hills sounds worth checking out]

http://home.flash.net/...ing/trad/jt/toprope/
http://www.joshuatreevillage.com/515/top.htm

(This post was edited by clintcummins on Feb 8, 2007, 11:46 PM)


bodyboarder


Feb 8, 2007, 11:32 PM
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Re: [clintcummins] Easier CA Sport Climbing [In reply to]
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Alabama hills is prefect for what you want. Lots of easy well protected sport climbs! Josh ,though awesome, is the opposite.

Jason


jt512


Feb 8, 2007, 11:47 PM
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Re: [mrcoolshoes1105] Easier CA Sport Climbing [In reply to]
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mrcoolshoes1105 wrote:
A few friends and I are thinking of road tripping out to California from Slippery Rock, PA in mid-March. What does CA have to offer in the way of 5.7 - 5.9 single pitch sport routes where we wont freeze our balls off? Originally we were thinking of going to Yosemite, but I assume there are not many easy sport routes there. We'll be camping as well. Too much to ask?

Stoney Point? Pt Dume? Big Rock?

Jay


caughtinside


Feb 8, 2007, 11:55 PM
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Re: [jt512] Easier CA Sport Climbing [In reply to]
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oh man. I wouldn't spring break to go to any of those places. too much driving!

you're better off toproping somewhere cool.


summerprophet


Feb 9, 2007, 12:02 AM
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Re: [mrcoolshoes1105] Easier CA Sport Climbing [In reply to]
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Why California specifically?

For easy spring time sport lines, I would join the masses in Smith Rocks, Oregon or Red Rocks, Nevada. The rock is somewhat similar, with the camping at smith being far better.


jt512


Feb 9, 2007, 12:09 AM
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Re: [caughtinside] Easier CA Sport Climbing [In reply to]
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caughtinside wrote:
oh man. I wouldn't spring break to go to any of those places. too much driving!

you're better off toproping somewhere cool.

I don't think I'd take a climbing vacation if I could only sport climb 5.7-5.9.

Jay


eddie_munster


Feb 12, 2007, 5:18 PM
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Re: [mrcoolshoes1105] Easier CA Sport Climbing [In reply to]
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head to owens, there are more easy sport climbs there than most crags in the U.S. More than the Red for example.

alabama hills might be fun for a day. It's scenic. But it is a choss pile. Owens is your best bet.

J-tree sucks for sport climbing unless you like to spend most of your time driving or walking. It is very spread out.


mrcoolshoes1105


Feb 12, 2007, 6:20 PM
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Moab Sport Climbing [In reply to]
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Thanks everyone for all the input. However, my plans have changed a little. Our new plan is to head to Moab, Utah since we can bike and climb, it is 10 hours less of a drive, and we can find some warmer weather. Any beta on the sport climbing scene around Moab? I know Indian Creek is a trad crag due to all the cracks. We'll be camping on BLM land right outside Arches National Park.


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