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jcinco
Feb 24, 2007, 4:35 AM
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My wife and I are (hopefully) going to spend 3 weeks in southern France in May climbing, hiking, hanging out, etc. We are definitely planning on hitting many of the more famous areas like Ceuse, Verdon, and the Calanques. I also find myself inexplicalbly drawn to Buoux, as well. However, although it has TONS of historical significance, it seems that it is not nearly the mecca that it once was. My research into the climbing there has unearthed statements like, "nobody climbs there anymore", "the place is deserted these days", and "the slabs there completely schooled me". It was even listed in the "What's Not" section of one of the mag's "What's Hot/What's Not" pieces. So is it worth spending a few days at Buoux? What would you compare the climbing to? Is it basically just a higher quality version of Shelf Road or Ten Sleep? I love technical pocketed limestone, but on the other hand, my time might be better spent at the tufa'd crags since there is not much like that here in the States. Any thoughts from folks who've sampled lots of the limestone in southern France?
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thomasribiere
Feb 24, 2007, 5:16 PM
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Though I've never been there, there are 2 importants things to know about Buoux : it's slab climbing, which is not trendy nowadays + the 5.10 routes from the old sectors are a little bit polished. But new sectors have been established with routes yet unpolished. And it's of historical importance, so according to your relationship with climbing history, you will want to go there or not. Could I compare that like a trad climber going to the western USA and skipping Indian Creek or Yosemite?
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bubbatolius
Feb 24, 2007, 5:51 PM
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I went there years ago (in August no less) and it was deserted but we didn't care: great climbing, no lines, shot hike (as opposed to Ceuse) and no parking headaches. As for slabs, I remember my forearms getting thrashed from all the pockets and overhanging climbing. So my vote is go! Ceuse is a must, the calanques are fun but beware of car breakin's and as for the Verdon it's a classic but don't get in over your head. There are so many great areas (gorge du Tarn for example) that I would just recommend hanging out where you are having a good time. Have fun
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jcinco
Feb 25, 2007, 1:57 AM
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Thanks for the info. I do find myself attracted to historically significant areas, so I will probably check it out for several days. It will be my first trip to France, so it only makes sense to check out the more famous areas. I like slightly less steep pocket climbing nearly as much as steep pumpy routes anyway. I agree about the famous US areas like Yosemite, Indian Creek, J-Tree, and Red Rocks. If I were to recommend areas to go to in the US, I would definitely recommend the most famous areas on someone's first trip, even though you will find better climbing at slightly less famous areas (Needles, Devils Tower, etc)
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thomasribiere
Feb 25, 2007, 8:06 AM
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I agree with you. A rockclimbing trip can be envisionned like a pilgrimage.
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kattagorri
Feb 25, 2007, 2:35 PM
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Hi, I would definetly go to Buoux.It´s a nice place and there are very good routes. Nowdays, it is very quiet and not crowded. Some routes are quite polished but you have lots of routes, also new ones. I´ve been there three times and I´m wishing to go again. In summer, it is very hot there but you can still climb after 5 or 6 in the afternoon. Good limestone with holes, also very technical climbing in vertical walls which most of them end in slabs (ovehangs too). You also should go to Gorges du Tarn, very nice place with good routes. Near there, Gorges de la Jonte, beautiful place, less crowded than Tarn,with long routes. Enjoy your trip around France!
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stevej
Feb 25, 2007, 10:11 PM
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You simply MUST go to Buoux if you will be in that area of France. Some unforgettable routes are: Autoroute Du Soleil (7b+), Rose at le Vampire (8a+), Reve De Papillon (8a) and the most classic, Elixir De Violence (8a). Do them all, you will not regret it!
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thomasribiere
Feb 25, 2007, 10:57 PM
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How funny! Soemone posted on a FRench forum to say he was surprised to see so few climbers in buoux though the area has still to offer excellent routes! jcinco, may I ask you to PM me when you are down? I might be able to join (if you want!). I live 90-100 minutes north of Buoux.
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joshy8200
Feb 26, 2007, 12:01 AM
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I recently took a trip to France with my girlfriend. We spent 5 days doing some climbing at the Gorge du Tarn/Jonte, Verdon, and L'Orpierre. Depending on what type of difficulty you're looking to climb. I would highly suggest going to Orpierre. It is a relatively small crag, but the variety of grades is excellent. It really has a lot of well protected sport climbs under 5.9. I'm reading into this a bit and saying that maybe this would be suited to your wife. If I am incorrect please excuse me. But the variety of moderate graded routes allowed my girlfriend and I to really fire off quite a few routes quickly that were at/near our onsight levels. It is close to Gap. I believe it's in the route database for more info on location.
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petje
Feb 26, 2007, 1:52 PM
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Saying la rose et le vampiere is 8a+ is sooo funny! It still is THE benchmark 8b! In general, go there! it is beautiful peacefull valley and the climbing makes you humble and is just good! except for big overhanging, everything is there. If you can do it, go on routes like "no man's land", "TCF", "Dresden", "Rêve du papillon", "roses des sables", "Harlem desir", "excalibur", "cadeau impossonee", "scorpion", "sjihad" the list of good routes is endless!
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jcinco
Feb 26, 2007, 9:35 PM
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Thanks for all the info. For a 3-4 day visit at Buoux, I think I would limit myself to not trying anything harder than 7c/7c+. I've heard of No Man's Land and TCF. What are some other classics in the 6c to 7c+ range?
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chainsaw
Mar 2, 2007, 12:28 AM
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Buoux is my favorite crag. The routes have a ton of historical significance and the valley is very beautiful. All of the routes on TCF are great, and you can combine them with the upper pitches for some great long 7b+ -8a range routes. The 7b on the right side of the Mission ledge is amazing. Also, Les Diamants (spelling?) a 7a+, the routes down and left of la Plage, La Diagonale de Fou 7c+, and the double arete feature down and right of Reve d'un Papillion are all brilliant. You should visit some of the other crags around there as well, particularly Lourmarin if it is open. Definitely make it to Les Calanques, Verdon, and Font as well. In my opinion these four are the best crags in France (Ceuse would be fifth on my list)
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slablizard
Mar 7, 2007, 1:14 AM
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DO NOT miss the Verdon. Been there 7-8 times..I love it. Unforgettable climbing.
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AlpineLogistics
Mar 29, 2007, 6:24 AM
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Buoux has some good routes, the problem is it's very polished. I don't live far from the French border so know the area quite well...one of my favourite places to climb is Presles, inbetween Valance and Grenoble. It's a 300m high and several Km-long band of fantastic limestone, amazing place, over 300 multipitch routes...lots with 3 stars. Slabs, cracks, tufas, overhangs. You appreciate it more if you climb French 7a (your 5.11d/12a) but there's all sorts. If you want more info or a friendly place to stay contact Eziò... www.auberge-presles.com. If you go you have to do this route: Vue de L'exterieur. Enjoy:)
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