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paclmbguy
Feb 28, 2007, 12:18 AM
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Registered: Feb 26, 2007
Posts: 1
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I have been to acadia every summer since i was born. I have just gotten to climbing in the pas few years. I was wondering if any one knew of any TR/ sport routes easier then 5.9. I have 2- 4 ft 1" tubular webbing runners, 4- 3ft 8mm cordletts, 50ft of static rope, 60m dynamic rope, 6 lockers, 3 non lockers, and 4 quick draws. based on this is there any thing else i should buy?
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sugarloafur
Apr 12, 2007, 6:00 PM
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Registered: Jun 15, 2006
Posts: 4
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You're not going to find much sport (if any really...) in Acadia. Otter Cliffs is by far the easiest place to go to TR. Sounds like you don't have any trad gear to build anchors (don't use the trees!), so that limits you to the Wonder Wall and Adair Wall. There are a couple staples and a big ring you can use for anchors on the right hand side of the Wonder Wall into Adair Wall. In The Groove is a 5.5 and ends right near a staple and a big pin/bolt. Make sure you rig up your anchor properly. I think there's also a 5.7 over there somewhere... check out there routes on Adair Wall
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naitch
Apr 12, 2007, 7:40 PM
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Registered: Apr 17, 2002
Posts: 539
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The Flake 5.7 and Wonder Wall 5.5-5.7 depending upon what line you take) are in the same area as the Groove that was mentioned.
At Great Head on the very south end there's anchors that you can drop a top rope off of and then walk around down to the waterline or rap off. I think there's a .7 .8 and .9 close together.
The only bolted climbs I know are at Canada Cliffs and there's only a couple and if I remember right they're .11s There is one corner .7 that you can hike up and around and drop a rope off of if you have plenty of static but it's not worth going there if that's all you're going to do. I think at the other end of the cliff there might be an .8 and a .9 The guide book to the area is good and tells about these.
At the Bubbles you can take a side trail into the top of a slab area that you can get anything from a .4 corner crack to featured slap and depending upon where you climb it can be .7 to .10
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