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chalkbreath512
Mar 26, 2007, 7:24 PM
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Registered: Jul 26, 2005
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trying to get psyched and strong for a trip to the New. Turning it into a competition sounds interesting...wondering if anyone wants to team up. Ide be going in under expert but really im just looking to get motavated to have a killer sesh. I'll be down a couple days before the fest, so if anyone is looking for a partner, I am too. Rob
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chalker7
Mar 26, 2007, 7:30 PM
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Registered: Mar 18, 2003
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I can't climb very hard, but I belay 5.16g, and will offer my services for 2 cases of New Castle. Just don't let me bring the New Castle with us, that may cause a problem of a serious nature (not for me, just you). Good luck with the partner, you shouldn't have much touble finding some good partners once you get there most likely.
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nnowinowski
Mar 26, 2007, 8:12 PM
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Registered: Sep 5, 2003
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i'm down what kind of climbs do you want to put together?
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chalkbreath512
Mar 26, 2007, 8:30 PM
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expert class starts at 11a, which means ill definetly be pushing it, but thats what its all about right? Im from Northern NY so I know all about scary hard climbing, but im looking to find the nicest looking, best protected 11's and 12's in the area. And while I cant say im familiar with the area, ive been there a bunch, and I love sandstone.
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nnowinowski
Mar 26, 2007, 8:34 PM
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sounds good to me. there aren't that many twelves and they are really spread out and some are wicked hard so it seems like a matter of stringing all the best hard 11's into a single day. Sounds pretty fun and a good reason to get into crackin shape
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chalkbreath512
Mar 26, 2007, 8:48 PM
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Registered: Jul 26, 2005
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yah man, crack the wip. ill be hitting up the gunks here and there(4 hr drive for me), if your interested at some point. It gets drier and warmer sooner than it does in the Adirondacks, so its pretty enticing. Nice boulders too. Anyway...keep in touch I suppose.
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mr8615
Mar 27, 2007, 2:51 PM
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Registered: Mar 4, 2004
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Sounds awesome, the comps (other than bouldering)are finally gonna get some respect this year!
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annlady
Apr 1, 2007, 9:28 PM
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Registered: Nov 18, 2005
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what exactly are the trad rules- funny thought- how do mixed routes figure in? what about R rated routes?
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nnowinowski
Apr 2, 2007, 8:15 PM
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Registered: Sep 5, 2003
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Yeah I was wondering if run out bolted routes counted ?
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crankingclimber
Apr 2, 2007, 8:33 PM
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Registered: Jul 27, 2002
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Here's how the comp worked last year. Top 10 climbs. They give you a list on comp day, however, of climbs which are worth double points - either obscure classics, maybe a little bold or adventuresome, etc. - basically just routes which the judges deem notable for some reason. Last year there were some (or at least one) mixed climb on this list. However, I'm not sure how all mixed climbs factor in - I think it would basically depend on how 'mixed' the route was - if it takes one cam, then that's not really cool, but if it requires significant amounts of gear to stop it from being runout or dangerous, but there are a couple of bolts, it would probably count. Don't quote me on that part though. Will
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