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tallmark515


Apr 5, 2007, 12:50 AM
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Tell us about your stuck/lost gear!
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This weekend, my #3 Camalot was consumed by a crack on the first pitch of the Lotsa Balls Wall at the Red Rocks this weekend. I ran out of #2's, so I placed a #3 and it just happened to be a little to big and went in a little to far.

It's your booty now.

Make me feel better about my $70 loss by telling a story of your biggest loss (not including theft).


stymingersfink


Apr 5, 2007, 1:13 AM
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tallmark515 wrote:
It's your booty now.
luckily enough, i find that this is frequently the case.

so far:

several fixed nuts that were never broke
a #2 rigid friend (promptly sold at the next gear swap for $5)
several pitons of varying style and sizes
a #3 Trango cam
a grey Wired Bliss TCU ($20 at the gear swap)
a 10cm ice screw + locking biner
various bail-biners in states of dis-repair
a pair of aiders abandoned half-way up El Cap (sun-bleached and discarded as trash)
a beak + a "not for climbing purposes" snap-link
an ATC found on the ground at the base of a deserted but popular TR crag

If it weren't for some people over-plugging, abandoning or dropping gear, people like me wouldn't have gear to sell at swap meets!

OTOH, I may have contributed a few nuts to the booty-crew. Wait, now that I think about it, I haven't. ...but my partner did drop a 16cm screw of mine in the snow this year that we have yet to recover. I'll put it on his tabSmile


truello


Apr 5, 2007, 1:22 AM
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I found a stretchy protective cover for a cam once. It was white and fit over my #2 nicely. Only problem was it was laying on the ground and had some sort of residue, maybe because of the rain. I snatched it up because I didn't even know they made these.


chumbawumba


Apr 5, 2007, 1:53 AM
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Lost a #3 Camalot on the second pitch of Salathe Wall (free blast) in January. It just wiggled into a constriction and did not want to come out. First lost cam in 15 years.

I've left a couple of nuts over the years but that was more due to me being lazy and not wanting to fight with them.

Hopefully someone was able to get the #3 as we intentionally did not push it further in hoping that someone with more time, patients, or skill would be able to remove it and use it.


chezdillon


Apr 5, 2007, 1:59 AM
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tallmark515 wrote:
Make me feel better about my $70 loss by telling a story of your biggest loss (not including theft).

I once had a new (to me and to climbing) partner lose 5 pieces of gear on the first 3 pitches of a 5 pitch route. He was cleaning, if you can call it that, and dropped or buried in cracks 3 cams and 2 stoppers.

While we were becoming very popular with the party of two behind us, I was concerned about having enough gear to get to the top.

We made it to the top, came down, and promptly went to the gear shop where he agreed to replace 2 of the cams and call it even.


rudolphluciani


Apr 5, 2007, 2:11 AM
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this weekend i lost an aproach shoe at phantasia crag in the red river gorge. fortunatly i also had my sandals.


tallmark515


Apr 5, 2007, 2:35 AM
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I'm already begining to feel better, other than my recent loss I've been pretty lucky in my relatively "new" trad career, I'm only down a few stoppers and a couple of biners that I had to sacrifice to the rock gods to bail me off their faces.

I guess it's just all part of the game.. huh.


moose_droppings


Apr 5, 2007, 2:44 AM
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Bailed in a storm last November, managed to aid down to a rap point leaving a #9 hex. I passed up a few decent days in the winter to retrieve it, so naturally it was gone last month when I went for it. Would of sworn that hex would be there for a couple more years where it was left.
Must be a chipmonk starting up his own rack. CrazyUnsure


lemon_boy


Apr 5, 2007, 3:07 AM
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in nearly 20 years of climbing i have never lost a cam and have only lost approximately 5 stoppers, mostly due to incoming weather and gunning for the top.

i just want to personally thank all of you tards who can't seem to keep your sh!t together for providing a permanent supply of all sorts of stuff, from clothing to climbing gear to camel backs to headlamps..... i score about a set of cams a year due to your incompetence. it makes me quite happy.


petsfed


Apr 5, 2007, 3:49 AM
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I overcammed a #4 camalot in a 5.8 last season. Needless to say, its gone now. Price of stupidity right there.


m-earle


Apr 6, 2007, 2:36 AM
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a couple weeks ago, i was at the way rambo wall at indian creek, and some guy asked another guy if he could borrow a #5 camalot. the guy says "yea, my racks right over there, go grab one," so the guy goes over to my rack, thinking it was the other guys, and grabs my new #5, after hes done with it, he goes to give it back, and the guy says "thats not mine." the guy continues to walk around the crag asking everyone but me who owns the cam. i leave the wall about half a pound lighter, and realize what had happend five days later. So i lost a 100 dollar cam because of anothers guy mistake. i'm still trying to find the guy, so there is still hope to get it back, but at any rate im purty pissed.


erisspirit


Apr 6, 2007, 4:50 PM
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A long time ago now I lost a friends Cam to a crack in JTree. I spent forever trying to get it out and gave myself a nice bloody hand. He even came down and tried, as well as 2 nice guys climbing near us. I still owe him for that Cam... I think it was a booty cam so he never took me up on the replacement, though he still could any time, and I would replace it.


catbird_seat


Apr 9, 2007, 6:11 AM
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Some of you guys bootying cams are going to be mad at me for this, but I'm going to tell of one method for removing stuck cams from cracks.

One way in which cams get stuck is by having one or more lobes invert so that they cannot be retracted. This happens most often in somewhat irregular cracks and ones that flare inward.

On two occasions I've been able to remove cams that were seemingly hopelessly stuck by threading a piece of small cord behind one or more of the non-inverted lobes.

This allows one to retract them without pulling on the trigger wires. You ease out on the cord while manipulating the stem and tapping the remaining lobes with the hook of the nut tool. It's a bit hard to explain, but you can figure it out.


organika


Apr 9, 2007, 7:19 PM
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I tagged a hammer up to my buddy, the rope got slack....hence to say the hammer in now fixed in the bottom of a crack somewhere in moab.....if you climb past it....clip it's sling...bomber


moose_droppings


Apr 9, 2007, 8:03 PM
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A hammer as passive pro. Excellent!




mowz


Apr 9, 2007, 8:34 PM
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It's a red alien that walked into a crack at Little Cottonwood Canyon in UT. Did you find it?


mowz


Apr 9, 2007, 8:36 PM
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truello wrote:
I found a stretchy protective cover for a cam once. It was white and fit over my #2 nicely. Only problem was it was laying on the ground and had some sort of residue, maybe because of the rain. I snatched it up because I didn't even know they made these.
That was my used condom. Can I have it back?


sed


Apr 9, 2007, 8:51 PM
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there is no excuse for leaving a cam behind, it's like leaving a wounded soldier on the battlefield. In 11 years of climbing I have never left a cam behind. With diligent effort they all come out. Leaving a "stuck" cam is a sign of lazyness or having more money than brains. That said, thank you, they make good paperweights and weapons for hand to hand combat.
S


SamScott


Apr 9, 2007, 9:06 PM
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I haven't lost a single piece of gear.
However I do have a tendency to drop my chocks then spend a couple of hours afterwards looking for them.


(This post was edited by SamScott on Apr 9, 2007, 9:07 PM)


kobaz


Apr 10, 2007, 9:53 PM
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I never lost a single piece until I went to Yosemite. I was on the third pitch of nutcracker and I tried to thread a nut through this hole next to a crack. I noticed the nut was a bit too small and I should have taken it out right away, but in the process of futzing with things I nudged it into the neither reaches of the crack below.

I almost lost a nut on the first pitch of mungunella when my partner couldn't get my #2 wc rock out of a little flake. We finished the route and I went back to the base and solo'd up about 15 feet, built a little anchor and then worked the nut. After a good 2-3 minutes or so I got it out.

I fixed a nut on the 5.8 alternative start to after six. My second couldn't get it out and when he got to the anchor I had him lower me and then I fought with it a bit. I then had him lower me to the ground where I then dug the wall hammer out of my pack and proceeded to try and coerce it out, no luck, now it's REALLY stuck in there. (If anyone happens to get that nut out let me know, I'll be happy to return it to it's home on my rack).

Although I did booty a nut on the last pitch of after six, who knows why the second left it there, it took all of 3 seconds to get out, it wasn't even stuck.


Partner brent_e


Apr 10, 2007, 10:11 PM
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I almost lost 2 cams one day. One due to my incompetence, the other due to my buddies. it was winter, we went to climb ice and saw a nice crack. The rock was warm and the sun was high so we tried it. I plugged a 3/4 DMM into a crack, which got stuck. He plugged a 1.75 friend, which got stuck. after beating the shit out of the cams, i got them out, although they show some abuse.


We were new then. Still are, but I got the cams out!



Brent


jumpingrock


Apr 11, 2007, 6:42 PM
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Emilie had to leave a cam that I had placed behind. We were both near hypothermic and I couldn't let her stay the extra 5 - 10 minutes that it would have taken in that cave. It was a poorly placed cam, but the only gear I had for over 50 feet. Wouldn't have saved me if I'd fallen though. Emilie said I could go back to get it, but the shivering quickly quelled that idea.


thedejongs


Apr 11, 2007, 7:41 PM
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Following a guide on Johnny Vegas in RR on my first multipitch trad climb ever. Halfway up the first pitch, I pull the trigger on his #2 and execute a classic nOOb move-- I push the cam further in. Bingo! Stuck nicer than anything.

Rapping the descent route several hours later, we hear a couple of guys headed up and call over to them-- they're working the #2. Guide asks them if they'd mind dropping it at the car if they got it out. We get done with Beulah's Book and return to the car. There, sitting on the hood is the guide's #2. Now that was classy.

Cheers.


lithophiliac


Apr 13, 2007, 6:01 AM
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Ha ha too funny!!!

I actually retrieved a #4 metolius quad cam off of the first pitch of Lotta Balls two years ago only to loose one of my ropes on rapell just two hours later.

After climbing the first two pitches of the route and freezing our butts off we decided to bail. When we were pulling our ropes from the pitch one belay, I didn't notice one end of the rope entering a tiny 12" hole in the sandstone about 10 feet below us. At least 50 of rope fed into this hole before I realized it. Of course, when I tried to pull the rope out of this hole, it become horribly jammed against something deep in the cradk and wouldn't budge again.

I worked on the damn thing for two hours and finally just left it. I couldn't bring my self to cut it and hoped someone else might get lucky. Great route, but we should have taken the standard rapell instead of bailing like we did.

That route sure has a lot of money left on it!!!


sigep_rockstar


Apr 13, 2007, 3:00 PM
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a hammer.....thats awesome

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