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crankinv9
Apr 6, 2007, 11:35 PM
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sidewaysmaster wrote: Elderly?! Elderly?! Speak only for yourself man! I am 55 and been climbing for 35 years. I am still climbing hard (5.12c) and boulder with anyone so long as I don't have to dyno too much. I may admit to being 'older' but I feel I am far away from being 'elderly'. Maybe in 20 years! I climb 4 days a week either inside or out depending on the length of day. I also usually do a dumbbell workout once a week to keep my chest muscles and the muscles on the fronts of my shoulders strong. About twice a year I need to take a break for a week or two to let something rest, the remaining weeks are full bore. I don't plan on slowing down until they plant me either. In reply to: Nice!!! Sounds alot like my routine and I stay pretty healthy but I cut out the weights during the prime boldering season twice a year, I seem to have more power. I'm having a great time with my climbing and the only problem is too many partners with differing schedules. I could climb everyday with a different person but I need my rest dammit!!!! I'l be fifty sometime this year.
(This post was edited by crankinv9 on Apr 7, 2007, 5:11 AM)
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dan2see
Apr 6, 2007, 11:57 PM
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My 64 years shows in my white beard (it isn't grey anymore) and sometimes in my cantankerous attitude.
Last year, I did a lot of sport climbs in the Rockies, with groups. Our climbs are challenging enough, but the access hikes are usually 1 or 2 or 3 kilometers up a mountain creek, which means plenty of elevation, and a lot of athletic boulder-hopping.
I keep up. And I smile a lot, too. Except when I'm cantankerous.
Most times, on the way out, some youngster in his 30's or 40's will remark on the fact that I do OK, and he hopes he'll do as well as I do, when he's as old I am.
I always answer, "Just keep doing it, man!".
Unlike Rgold and Fluxus, that's the only advice I can give.
Just keep doing it.
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aglane
Apr 7, 2007, 4:41 PM
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Lots of good suggestions above. Still, at a decade beyond you, I'll put in a word for getting a personal trainer for at least a few visits if you need overall conditioning.
Best way to learn how to avoid the tendonitis, back pain, foot and ankle problems and others that can too easily turn up. There's a risk among climbers of using the same muscles and tendons too much without the backup of overall condition. (experience talking)
Of course you may already be in better shape than I'll ever get to, in which case perhaps "just climb" might do the job.
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reg
Apr 9, 2007, 12:03 PM
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sidewaysmaster wrote: Elderly?! Elderly?! Speak only for yourself man!
sidewaysmaster wrote: and boulder with anyone so long as I don't have to dyno too much.
sidewaysmaster wrote: I also usually do a dumbbell workout once a week
dumbell? showin your age brother. hummm.... ah dumbbell workout eh? there's a joke in there somewhere!
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climblouisiana
Apr 10, 2007, 5:07 AM
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curt wrote: dan2see wrote: Most times, on the way out, some youngster in his 30's or 40's will remark on the fact that I do OK, and he hopes he'll do as well as I do, when he's as old I am. That's when I like to run a couple of laps on some boulder problem that the kids can't start.  Curt 
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curt
Apr 10, 2007, 6:42 AM
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climblouisiana wrote: curt wrote: dan2see wrote: Most times, on the way out, some youngster in his 30's or 40's will remark on the fact that I do OK, and he hopes he'll do as well as I do, when he's as old I am. That's when I like to run a couple of laps on some boulder problem that the kids can't start. Curt
Hey, if you don't start showing a little more respect for your elders, I'm going to let everyone know who's cane I borrowed for that pic.
Curt
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jookyhead
Apr 10, 2007, 9:50 AM
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This thread is great.
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yanqui
Apr 10, 2007, 3:05 PM
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Since I will soon be turning 50, this got my attention, although I have to admit I usually avoid technique and training threads like the plague. I suppose I belong to the "just climb and have fun" school, the main problem being that my free time to just climb and have fun is a bit limited. I sometimes dream it would be a kick to become a 50-year old climbing bum. My house and car are paid for, I don't have any debts, but I really don't have enough stashed away to stop working, and guilt (or is it love?) prevent me from making myself a finiancial burden to my family. So I guess just climbing and having fun, like 5 days a week, right now, is out of the question.
Two of my biggest difficulties are keeping light and flexibilty in my legs. When I have a good rythmn going I climb outside 3 days a week, including at least one day of intense bouldering (lots of forearm stretching!), go jogging (6 km) a couple of times a week - which really helps me control weight - and do about 4 hours of flexibility (what you might call yoga, I guess). Even this level of activity is not always easy for me to maintain, because of work and family responsibilities. Sometimes I get screwed by the weather. When I'm light and more or less maintaining this level of activity I can onsight mid to hard 5.11 and redpoint easy 5.12 (trad or sport doesn't seem to matter much), which is certainly not impressive, but it's good enough for me. When I loose this rythmn of activity and/or gain weight, I struggle on 5.11s and my onsight ability drops to around mid 5.10. Historically my climbing ability has behaved more like a wave function than the continual "progress" which so often gets talked about in these threads. The peaks of the waves typically occur after extended climbing vacations (3 to 5 weeks of continual "just climbing and having fun"). But these sorts of vacations have all but dissappeared since my daughter was born. Although we did just manage a week, with another family who climbs.
Short of a few tweeks and twangs, I've never had any injuries due to overexertion, most probably due to my lack of overexertion.
Before my daughter was born. my wife and I used to do light weights a couple of evenings a week in a local gym, and this didn't seem to hurt much. Better than sitting aroung the house and eating, anyways. There is no climbing gym available where I live, and last year we decided to build an addition to our house which includes a a room for our own personal climbing gym. We're now ready to finish the interior (money-wise) and I'll be interested to see how this gets used. Maybe I'll get busy and train. At least I seem to be on the upward trend of the wave function at this point, although I have a shitload of things to get done at work in the next few months.
By the way, the strongest climber I ever knew, NEVER trained, although he did climb ALOT (so much so that, even though he was a talented and interested mathematician, he wound up getting booted him out of the math doctorate program where we studied together). He was a "full time" climber. How good is "strongest"? Well, for example, he put up what may have been, at the time, the hardest single pitch trad climb in the world, putting in all the gear on lead. And I know he didn't train, because I was his roommate. On the other hand, when I was busy studying and reading math books, he was off in Alaska, or Zion, or some place like that doing hard routes. So there you go.
Anyways, I have nothing against training and if done correctly it will surely help you become a stronger climber. So now you should ignore what I said and go listen to what people like rgold and fluxus have to say.
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robdotcalm
Apr 10, 2007, 4:52 PM
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"The high notes seem farther away."
Last Saturday, I was listening to “André Chenier” being broadcast by the Metropolitan Opera while lifting weights in my home gym. During the first intermission, there was an interview with Ben Heppner who was singing the role of André. He had first sung the role 11 years ago. Ben was asked how it felt to sing it 11 years later . He said, “The high notes seem farther away.” This sums up beautifully how it is to grow older and still be active.
Gratias et valete bene!
RobertusPunctumPacificus
(This post was edited by robdotcalm on Apr 12, 2007, 3:11 AM)
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bolthappy
Apr 11, 2007, 4:43 PM
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I'm over 50 and get out every weekend, my advice is... climbing is the best training for climbing, climb for fun, climb smart, climb safe, climb alot.
BTW I can out climb kids younger than my son
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eastvillage
Apr 12, 2007, 2:27 AM
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I'm 52 and I try to keep up a regular work out program. I find it much easier on my body if I stay strong and injuries are less of a problem.
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cologman
Apr 12, 2007, 3:35 AM
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I'm 55 and climb regularly, just took a 26 yr old into the Black for a river to rim rte that had him grinning ear to ear. I am still looking to break that next barrier so I'm always pushing myself. My training isn't what some of yours is or for that matter what I'd like it to be. But one thing I've learned is to be happy with what I'm doing and just keep trying and it all seems to come into place. Any of you "oldsters" want to climb in the Black with me just give a shout. Most of my partners are around half my age.
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alx
Apr 12, 2007, 3:45 PM
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I feel old sometimes at 44. You guys are making me feel like a kid.
Seriously- it's great to hear from all the not young climbers out there.
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bob_54b
Apr 12, 2007, 4:39 PM
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myself being 55, I know it's hard to train and not do damage. It just takes so much longer to heal when you get older.
first I would just heal. Might have to take a bunch of time off but that's really the only thing that will do the job. Indoor and bouldering on crimpy small holds all the time I think really exacerbates lower arm and elbow tendon problems, so maybe don't crank on the tiny stuff all the time, especially training.
My own weekly routine in the winter is like M-Th 8lb weight with each arm (4 sets of 60) alternate with 100 blue donut squeezes x8. I try to do 2-4 sets of 10 pullups x10 a week (200-400 pulls) but if I'm feeling tired, oh well. Also 4 sets of pyramids on small holds on the hangboard with each 100 pulls. Also do 5 sets of 5 ice climbing weight raises x5 a week. Usually in the late fall and winter I do pulls mostly on the big jugs since it's mainly for ice climbing, switch to smaller holds before spring and summer rock. Stay off it on Friday and the weekends for climbing and even Thurs if it looks like a big weekend coming up. Store glycogen. Train a lot less in the summer: real climbing!
Also have a climbing wall and get on that for 1/2 hour about 2-3 times a week. This varies . If I feel tired or just plain bored with it, I take a few days off since that's a sign that your body (and mind) needs a break. Try to do a good run once a week.
I do a lot of bouldering, mostly and stuff that's not above V2 and then when feel good, hit the harder stuff for a day. If I boulder, usually bag indoor training that day.
Getting older I notice I'm just not as intense and driven as I was when I was 22, and not as strong or bold and it takes longer to recover from injuries. Just have to pace myself a little slower and be more aware of how I feel. Oh another thing is yoga...I started doing these various 15-20 minute hatha yoga routines everyday about a year ago because I was feeling so inflexible and that had REALLY helped improve that aspect. Wish I'd started that when I was 22!
I'd just heal and then ease back into it slowly...frustrating but, yeah.
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bolthappy
Apr 12, 2007, 11:46 PM
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I was thinking how a fellow climber around my age told me and my partner we should take some time off every year to heal up...that was the worst thing we could have ever done 2 mounts off and it seemed like it took 6 to get back to where we were let alone the pain...don't do it. My theory is climb hard once a week ,be it in the gym or rock but don't stop, when you get old you'll stove up, baby your injury only stop if you have to. I remember seeing a guy climbing in a leg cast in the jym, thats when you know your totally hooked.
climbing is the only training for climbing if you spend your time climbing instead of training you will be further ahead and much happier.
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phang_nga
Apr 18, 2007, 1:16 AM
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51+ here... I was diagnosed with a terminal disease and as a result have lost close to 30 pounds. A lot of that was muscle mass, but the end result is that my 'strength to weight ratio' is favorable.
I have had a very active life and kayaking is my life and business. I think it helps my climbing, but not much. The benefit is overall fitness.
I'll climb 'til I die... which doctors say is not too far away... but what do they know 
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oldsalt
Apr 18, 2007, 1:34 AM
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phang_nga wrote: 51+ here... I was diagnosed with a terminal disease and as a result have lost close to 30 pounds. A lot of that was muscle mass, but the end result is that my 'strength to weight ratio' is favorable. I have had a very active life and kayaking is my life and business. I think it helps my climbing, but not much. The benefit is overall fitness. I'll climb 'til I die... which doctors say is not too far away... but what do they know
I was about to spray about being 57 and swimming between gym sessions, with monthly outdoor trips (from Florida)...
MR. Phang-Nga - You are The Man.
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barefoot_utah
Apr 25, 2007, 7:29 PM
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I echo that phang_nga. I am turning 49 in another month and a half and started climbing just over a year ago. This sport rocks and I use hiking to help me keep in shape, especially at this altitude.
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karlbaba
Apr 27, 2007, 1:16 AM
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I turn 48 soon and climb just as hard as when I was living in Yosemite at 22. My secret? I had a job back then and never trained.
Now I never train still but as a guide, I climb way more. Weaker but more skilled. Laziness is an art.
Peace
karl
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billl7
Apr 27, 2007, 2:07 AM
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shockabuku wrote: billl7 wrote: Oh, by comparison, my son started climbing at the same time as I but at age 16; we took an outdoor climbing course together back then (almost 3 years ago). He left me in the dust after about 9 months and, as of about 6 months ago, he has been red pointing up to 5.12b sport routes (5.10c trad). Only a few times has he had strain concerns.  Are you Matt's father?
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shockabuku
Apr 27, 2007, 2:18 PM
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billl7 wrote: shockabuku wrote: billl7 wrote: Oh, by comparison, my son started climbing at the same time as I but at age 16; we took an outdoor climbing course together back then (almost 3 years ago). He left me in the dust after about 9 months and, as of about 6 months ago, he has been red pointing up to 5.12b sport routes (5.10c trad). Only a few times has he had strain concerns. Are you Matt's father? See what I mean. Everyone around here only knows me as "Matt's father."
Actually I didn't know who you were at all - see, you're moving up. Life keeps getting better and better. By the way, I'm Elly's dad, nice to meet you.
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dellochef
Apr 27, 2007, 2:41 PM
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this does not answer your question, but manolo zanolla a italian climber (aka the magican) has done bain de sang at 48. Better aks him how he did.
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guru2
Apr 28, 2007, 3:07 AM
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I'm 49, my partners with climbing are mid-50's and we have a blast everytime we go out. This is the most positive experience I have ever enjoyed, and I've back bowl powder hounded, white water rafted and multi marathoned etc. The simple fact that at our or any age, we can enjoy the rush of rockclimbing is a gift, and we should all be nuthin but overjoyed, and thankful. Remember, we all have friends who would gladly be able to do what we take for granted
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