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kevinheiss
Mar 29, 2007, 12:08 PM
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I've been reading a lot about fingerboarding and different training sessions. Some articles have stated to NOT do pull up on a fingerboard except with jugs or slopers as it puts a lot of pressure on your joints.
How many people out there do pull ups wiht there fingerboards when using 2 finger or 3 finger pocket?
Kevin
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overlord
Mar 29, 2007, 12:46 PM
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i do on one knuckle pockets. i dont do it on crims though.
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fancyclaps
Mar 29, 2007, 1:10 PM
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I never experienced any stress related injuries climbing until I started using a hangboard. I have switched to only pulling up on the jugs and slopers.
Keep in mind that I have only been climbing for ~1 year so my tendons have yet to really respond to the stresses of rockclimbing(at least according to what I have read about tendon growth). Rock climbing, more so then many athletic endeavors, requires you to really listen to your body to know the difference between pushing yourself and injury. So while it is good to get the input of other climbers you are going to have to answer these questions for yourself. Just because others are able to do 2 finger pull-ups injury free does not mean that you will as well. Just as the fact that I choose not to do certain types of pull-ups on a hangboard does not mean that should be the rule for everyone.
To sort of stray off topic here a bit, I would even question the efficacy of hangboarding in general. Dont get me wrong, if used correctly a hangboard can definitely improve or maintain strength. But how many people actually use a hangboard correctly? Correctly in the sense here that climbing movement and mental skills are emphasized in training to the same degree that strength aspects are. I realize now that I am not at the level of climbing where I truly need a hangboard and I was hung up on the idea of becoming a better climber by becoming a stronger climber. I guess doing desperate pull-ups on a tiny edge is much more glamorous than doing quiet feet movement drills.
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mrpotter
Mar 29, 2007, 6:45 PM
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I get bored with just hanging, so I do lots of pull ups. Never really had any problems with it
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ninja_climber
Apr 1, 2007, 11:05 AM
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I do pull ups on crimps,slopers, and 1 & 2 finger pockets. I havn't seen any drawback to it...plus its not as boring as hanging.
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sesser125
Apr 1, 2007, 5:34 PM
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I do pullups on all of the holds (only with an open grip) and have never hurt my fingers, though thru my research as well I have read info for both sides. I have taken hangboard routines from Ben Moons website, 8a.nu, and metolius. All of them have you doing some sort of pull up on the smaller holds. I suggest you test your limits, though not far enough to hurt yourself, to see whats capable for you. In my opinion though just hanging on them will improve your contact strength. Good Luck
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overlord
Apr 2, 2007, 10:25 AM
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oh, one more thing... try not to do pullups on 'hard' holds that are less than shoulder width apart as this position forces the arms to turn (pronate or whatever) and puts more stress on outside fingers (say, ring finger) and we all know what this leads to.
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tombz
Apr 5, 2007, 5:01 PM
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Try doing Frenchies. Do a pull up as high as you can and lock or hold for 5 to 10 seconds then slowly lower. Repeat without touching the ground but this time lock off or hold when your elbow is at 90 degrees angle, slowly lower then again pull up all the way and come back down and hold at more than 90 degrees. These work great and you can change it up any way you like. Try it. 
(This post was edited by tombz on Apr 5, 2007, 5:02 PM)
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shimanilami
Apr 5, 2007, 6:09 PM
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I do pull-ups on everything that I can do pull-ups on. I mix in Frenchies, dead hangs, hanging crunches, levers, etc. to make things more interesting.
I think the things to avoid are violent moves when you've got a lot of stress on your weaker joints and tendons. What is "weak" - i.e. crimpers, pockets, etc. - is probably a little different for each of us. You'll have to figure that out for yourself. In the meanwhile, I suggest you take a conservative approach. Overdoing it won't help you build strength any faster, but you could hurt yourself and that's the worst thing of all.
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azpastordude
Apr 13, 2007, 4:50 PM
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shimanilami wrote: I do pull-ups on everything that I can do pull-ups on. I mix in Frenchies, dead hangs, hanging crunches, levers, etc. to make things more interesting. I think the things to avoid are violent moves when you've got a lot of stress on your weaker joints and tendons. What is "weak" - i.e. crimpers, pockets, etc. - is probably a little different for each of us. You'll have to figure that out for yourself. In the meanwhile, I suggest you take a conservative approach. Overdoing it won't help you build strength any faster, but you could hurt yourself and that's the worst thing of all.
Good advice. A few years ago, I torqued a middle finger trying to do a mono dyno when I hadn't really built myself to the place where I could actually do it. The finger has always bothered me since. Once I backed off a little, and worked my way up to that point, I can stick them fairly well now. (Still hurts that finger, but not nearly as much.) So, I suppose the moral of the story is, take it easier at first, and then reap fuller rewards later on... 
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sidepull
Apr 14, 2007, 8:47 PM
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overlord wrote: oh, one more thing... try not to do pullups on 'hard' holds that are less than shoulder width apart as this position forces the arms to turn (pronate or whatever) and puts more stress on outside fingers (say, ring finger) and we all know what this leads to.
a promise carved in stone, deeper than the sea?
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shear
Apr 15, 2007, 12:00 PM
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youre not reaping any rewards except a fucked tendon.
thats just careless and dumb on your part.
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azpastordude
Apr 15, 2007, 3:12 PM
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shear wrote: youre not reaping any rewards except a f-cked tendon. thats just careless and dumb on your part.
And some people would say that climbing itself is careless and dumb... Relax, dude.
(This post was edited by azpastordude on Apr 15, 2007, 4:22 PM)
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