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adampaulgable
Apr 17, 2007, 2:55 AM
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Hey all, I think i am just really confused or not getting this. I for some odd reason am addicted to climbing literature of any type. (this is besides the point) Anyways, I purchased Craig Leuben's knew anchor book by the mountaineers books. I though hey this will be useful a knew book about anchors that is really up to date. Maybe i can learn something useful from this or something new and up and coming. I have been climbing about 7 years. Anyways i was really interested in the whole cordalette not equalizing everything thing. So i started reading about the different methods. the way to go seems to use "The Equalizer" Now i have looked all over the book numerous times now and it shows numerous "Equalizers" and what i have gotten out of it , is that the equalizer is the slidiing X tied with to length limiting knots. Somebody please tell me if i have understood this and if you have the book, please tell me where the description for the sliding x with two knots and the equalizer description are different. I am just trying to get a really good stance on this as i am a firm believer in the cordalette and have always used it (probably still will ) but want to try something knew out. I tried to look this up but it brought up 15 pages of post and i am kinda lazy i guess.
Thanks a bunch
Adam
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wanderlustmd
Apr 17, 2007, 3:01 AM
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Read JL's new book. There is also a huge sliding X thread in which JL gave a preview of the information in the book before it came out and some good things came from the thread. Do some research, it isn't that hard to understand. Get a qualified guide to answer any questions.
At this point, it seems that the cordellete setup has been debunked, although there seems to be a few applications where it can work. I won't post specifics; read what's already up, better yet buy JLs book and support his endeavor to help make things safer.
http://www.amazon.com/...176778962&sr=8-1
(This post was edited by wanderlustmd on Apr 17, 2007, 3:03 AM)
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adampaulgable
Apr 17, 2007, 3:09 AM
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Wanderlust, I have exhaustingly researched this. I believe you are reffering to craig leuben's knew book which is to replace john longs old boook of anchors and more anchors the standard. The equalizer is a specific equalizing method that i believe leuben has come to believe allows the load on the anchor to shift along with directional changes. yet allows such little extension that it is not a really big problem. I have used the cordalette for 7 years now and climbed all over the country and had no problems. I have always notice that a side pull loads just one or two anchors. so i have exxhaustingly read this book front to cover numerous times looking for the specifics on the "equalizer" and the differences it has. but cannot find it. I searched on here and when The equalizer is put in, 15 pages come up. I am not a begginer ( not that you said i was ) i just believe the book is extremely vague here and i like to learn knew things all the time
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adampaulgable
Apr 17, 2007, 3:11 AM
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sorry i should say, the craig leubben book came out in 2007 , about a couple of months ago. Also i have both of the john long anchor books published in 96 and have had them since i beleve 98. it was time for a new book. kudos to leubben for putting out a really great book
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shockabuku
Apr 17, 2007, 3:37 AM
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I guess you missed where wanderlust wrote "Read JL's new book." It's in there. If you want to save the money, read the 15 pages. It only takes a couple of hours.
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dan2see
Apr 17, 2007, 3:46 AM
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Craig Leubben has published:
"Rock Climbing Anchors: A Comprehensive Guide: Rock Climbing Anchors"
http://www.chapters.indigo.ca/...aineers+and+leubben'
$17.95 Canadian
"Rock Climbing: Mastering Basic Skills"
The Mountaineers Books
http://www.chapters.indigo.ca/...aineers+and+leubben'
$15.51 Canadian
Also,
"How To Climb: How To Ice Climb!"
"Rappelling"
"Knots for Climbers, 2nd"
"How To Climb: Knots For Climbers"
I don't have any info on the book contents, so I don't know which book shows the Equalizer.
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adampaulgable
Apr 17, 2007, 3:51 AM
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shockabu, where can one get the new john long anchor book.
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adampaulgable
Apr 17, 2007, 3:55 AM
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ok i found it,sorry for the confusion, i thougt the leubben book was the only new one out. ANyways to save space on the book shelf if anyone who has the leubben book could they please clarify the issue would be great.
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adampaulgable
Apr 17, 2007, 4:02 AM
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shockabu, the equallette is exactly it. Thanks so much. I just wanted to make sure there wasn't something really exciting that i was missing out on. I have been usiing a version of that for years but it thought there was somehting knew and improved that i was missing out on. You knoew out here in wyoming we are a little behind. Wanderlust, thanks for the info, i should have looked at the publish date instead of assuming ( i think maybe i got the wrong book and should have went with the long book )
OH well. If you havn't gotten to zion for a wall yet. I was just there and after many cluster f-s and hours managed to polish of spaceshot, and then went back three weeks later and finished touchstone ( found spaceshot much easier than touchstone ) hauling sucked though. Will be heading back in october though. drop me a line if u will be around. Be there for about 3 weeks
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shockabuku
Apr 17, 2007, 4:07 AM
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...for whatever it's worth. Seriously though, if you have the time to kill, the 37 page thread on the improved sliding x has some other fairly interesting ideas in it as well.
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adampaulgable
Apr 17, 2007, 4:10 AM
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maybe some day, I do get pretty excited thinking about it. I am a climbing info/book junkie.
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shockabuku
Apr 17, 2007, 4:14 AM
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Unfortunately I think most of the pictures are gone since the rc.com changeover and it'll be pretty hard to make sense out of a lot of it. Some are still there as links.
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devils_advocate
Apr 17, 2007, 4:00 PM
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adampaulgable wrote: I am a climbing info/book junkie.
You sound like it.
adampaulgable wrote: ANyways to save space on the book shelf if anyone who has the leubben book could they please clarify the issue would be great.
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adampaulgable wrote: I have exhaustingly researched this.
adampaulgable wrote: I tried to look this up but it brought up 15 pages of post and i am kinda lazy i guess.
Just read the damn Sliding X thread. For a scholar of knowledge such as yourself it should be bliss.
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