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coastal_climber
Apr 22, 2007, 6:39 PM
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What is a good crack shoe that jams and edges, if there is such a thing. I am looking for a new shoe for the summer, and if possible would be good at both of those.
>Cam
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petsfed
Apr 22, 2007, 7:17 PM
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Jams in what size crack?
Soft shoes are best for thin cracks, a stiffer shoe that edges better will be better for fists and bigger.
The best all arounder is something like the Muirra or the Anazazi lace-up, sized just large enough that your toes lie flat when the shoe is completely broken in. I'm a big fan of the Katana as well, but its quite wide for what it is.
If you want a really soft, flexible shoe, look at the Mythos or the Moccasym, or shoes of equivalent type.
If you want to climb hard, wide stuff, look at any hightop shoe you can find. The Megas still exist, although they are hard to find. Acopa recently started making a new hightop called the JB.
I'd shy away from "dedicated trad" shoes like the Tradmaster or the Piton. Too much gimmick, and you lose a ton of performance if you're not climbing hand cracks.
There are tons of other options, but a semi-stiff edging shoe, coupled with sizing that allows your toes to lay flat is the perfect trad shoe. Find the one that fits you best.
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climbingaggie03
Apr 22, 2007, 7:29 PM
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I really love my 5.10 Ascents, I'm on my second Re-sole with them and have done serious mileage on them in the valley, red rocks and josh. I had a buddy that loved his 5.10 Pitons, I haven't had a chance to try them yet, but I want to.
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8flood8
Apr 22, 2007, 7:51 PM
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i disagree with pets about the tradmasters.
they are great shoes for slabs or cracks i've put miles in mine
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ja1484
Apr 22, 2007, 8:57 PM
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I have yet to encounter a better "all around" trad shoe than the 5.10 Newton.
Unfortunately, you can only really get em in europe these days, God knows why, and they might've stopped making em all together.
I'm also a fan of the Mythos, though it's not quite as gentle on your feet when jamming.
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coastal_climber
Apr 22, 2007, 8:59 PM
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I will be doing Fist and smaller cracks. I might get the pitons and see how they feel. Do you think the Five Ten Anasazi Verde's would be good for cracks?
>Cam
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dlintz
Apr 22, 2007, 9:19 PM
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ja1484 wrote: I have yet to encounter a better "all around" trad shoe than the 5.10 Newton. Unfortunately, you can only really get em in europe these days, God knows why, and they might've stopped making em all together. I'm also a fan of the Mythos, though it's not quite as gentle on your feet when jamming.
Do you know which European site(s) might still have some Newtons? Five Ten stopped making them years ago and I realized a little too late that the Newtons are the best shoe I've ever owned for slab to gently overhanging. Anyone out there want to sell me a pair (9.5)? Anyone know of a worthy substitute i.e. something with comparable stiffness plus sensitivity?
d.
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cintune
Apr 23, 2007, 12:56 AM
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I love my Kaukulators, but you can only get them on e-bay these days, sometimes. Heard good things about the JB. Or you could get a pair of Chuck Taylors and get them resoled with sticky rubber. I've seriously thought about doing that. I like the high tops.
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jaybro
Apr 23, 2007, 12:56 AM
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Hands down, Mythos, buy 'em tight if edging is important
..
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climbinginchico
Apr 23, 2007, 6:11 AM
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I love my Evolv Bandits. They edge well, smear well, work well in thin cracks, and I'm thinking about getting another pair with a stiffer midsole for wider cracks.
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phang_nga
Apr 23, 2007, 6:29 AM
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jaybro wrote: Hands down, Mythos, buy 'em tight if edging is important ..
Yup, one of the best all-around shoes made... I love e'm, though I'm planning on buying some Evolv Demortos this summer when I go Stateside.
If your shoes hurt like hell
You're not going to climb as well
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azrockclimber
Apr 23, 2007, 10:59 AM
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ja1484 wrote: I have yet to encounter a better "all around" trad shoe than the 5.10 Newton. Unfortunately, you can only really get em in europe these days, God knows why, and they might've stopped making em all together. I'm also a fan of the Mythos, though it's not quite as gentle on your feet when jamming.
The newton is the best that I have ever used by far.
I use it fitted for 5.10 and up, 1/2 size bigger for 5.8-5.9, and for 5.7 and below or really long routes.... I use my old spires, so Comfy... like slippers. 
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ja1484
Apr 23, 2007, 12:58 PM
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phang_nga wrote: If your shoes hurt like hell You're not going to climb as well
100% truth. The first thing I look at in shoes now is comfort. The one aspect of a shoe that really will affect your climbing ability is whether or not you're in agony.
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on_belay_hombre
Apr 23, 2007, 1:25 PM
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I bought a pair of Montrail Splitters for the same stuff you are looking for. Climbed lots of cracks in them and they are the most comfortable shoe I have ever tradded in. I can wear them all day but they're snug enough for edging and provide awesome rubber/coverage and support for cracks. I have since worn through the rand but will be getting them resoled. The lasted 2 1/2 year of climbing indoors/outdoors 2-4 times a week.
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wanderlustmd
Apr 23, 2007, 2:19 PM
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The best pair of shoes I have is the 5.10 Moccasyms. They work well for everything I've come across
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wallmonkey35
Apr 23, 2007, 2:56 PM
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My favorite is the tradmaster.
But for what you are doing it sounds like the 5.10 piton will be perfect. And, it to, is a nice shoe.
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dig_scott
Apr 23, 2007, 3:14 PM
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im sure people are going to say "thats not a trad shoe" but i love them...
la sportiva venom's.
have wore them all day and feet were fine. just KEEP THEM OUT OF THE SUN. your feet will burn off. climbed for a month in yosemite amost every day before the toes busted through. bought a pair of moccasym's and hated them. feet hurt too much.
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coastal_climber
Apr 23, 2007, 3:24 PM
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I've ordered the Piton's, if they don't fit well, I might get the mythos or anazasi lace ups.
>Cam
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caughtinside
Apr 23, 2007, 3:58 PM
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you newton guys are crazy. THose are good for a few things, but they had the most ridiculously big toe profile ever. Forget using them in small cracks.
And they were so stiff you couldn't smear worth a damn.
I wear different shoes for trad depending on the type of climb/length of climb/my mood
I generally use:
katanas (my rad sending shoes)
coyotes
mythos
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elwood54
Apr 23, 2007, 4:43 PM
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Sportiva's Barracudas. Katana last with vibram on top for foot camming.
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coastal_climber
Apr 23, 2007, 5:16 PM
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But I hate the rubber on Sportiva's.
>Cam
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caughtinside
Apr 23, 2007, 5:26 PM
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coastal_climber wrote: But I hate the rubber on Sportiva's. >Cam
I don't! 
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coastal_climber
Apr 23, 2007, 6:23 PM
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caughtinside wrote: coastal_climber wrote: But I hate the rubber on Sportiva's. >Cam I don't!
But I do! 
>Cam
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petsfed
Apr 23, 2007, 6:31 PM
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coastal_climber wrote: But I hate the rubber on Sportiva's. >Cam
I've found that the rubber on Sportiva shoes is pretty similar in overall stickiness to C4. Its just that most Sportiva shoes are stiffer than the average 5.10 shoe. Mind you, I've never worn any of Sportiva's softer shoes (I owned Muirras and Katanas), and I've only owned Moccasyms from 5.10, but even considering the other brands I've owned, the only truly terrible one was Boreal rubber, which was both soft and slick.
The rock condition (lichen, crumbly, smooth, etc) will affect your smearing tons more than your rubber.
(This post was edited by petsfed on Apr 23, 2007, 6:31 PM)
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randomtask
Apr 23, 2007, 7:00 PM
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My muiras work good for fist and above. The new Vibram XS Grip is way better than the old rubber, IMO. However for small cracks I go with the mocassyms, they are great for small cracks. I've never used the pitons, but looks like they might be harder to get into smaller cracks.
-JR
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