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Anasazi or Galileo
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gilles


Apr 16, 2007, 5:34 AM
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Anasazi or Galileo
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looking at purchasing one of these models. Any difference between the two?


carabiner96


Apr 16, 2007, 11:31 PM
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Re: [gilles] Anasazi or Galileo [In reply to]
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Check out the gear heads thread.


jgailor


Apr 16, 2007, 11:33 PM
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Re: [gilles] Anasazi or Galileo [In reply to]
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Tried the galileo, but my feet are too wide for them (and my feet aren't that wide). Try em on, and leave em on for a few minutes to make sure you can wear them. They were physically painful after 3 - 4 minutes.


ja1484


Apr 16, 2007, 11:48 PM
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Re: [gilles] Anasazi or Galileo [In reply to]
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As I understand it, lasting differences. 5.10 has never had comfortable shapes for my feet, but everyone's stub are different, so you should try em on and boulder in em a bit (if you can) to see if they're acceptable.

Screw rubber, screw design, screw this that and the other, the most important aspect of a climbing shoe is always ALWAYS comfort :)


hugin


Apr 17, 2007, 4:26 AM
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I like my Galileos, but they do make my feet sore after a couple of hours ... a little too narrow. If I pop them off while i take rests, they're solid.

The Anasazis are a much more aggressive last, while the Galileos are somewhat more of an all around shoe.


ylfoo


Apr 17, 2007, 9:50 AM
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Re: [hugin] Anasazi or Galileo [In reply to]
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Find one pair that can withstand to lots of use and abuse. This is because learning will be tough on your feet at first. Stiff, supportive soles, a substantial rubber rand around the outside will be a wise buy. High-cut shoes that protect and support your ankles will be highly recommendable. Anyway once when you get the feeling of it, you can try out different shoes.

Galileos are the best for me... and it works.. hope it works for u.


rckclimber2002


Apr 18, 2007, 5:07 PM
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Mad Rocks dont slip Boy


ylfoo


Apr 19, 2007, 12:45 AM
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yeah man mad rock do not slip... thats y i have a mad rock flash as a spare dude. haha
but still i prefer five ten.
Wink


phUnk


Apr 19, 2007, 2:03 AM
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Re: [hugin] Anasazi or Galileo [In reply to]
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hugin wrote:
The Anasazis are a much more aggressive last, while the Galileos are somewhat more of an all around shoe.
That's not true. I have both and as of 2006, they have nearly identical lasts.


gilles


Apr 19, 2007, 4:22 AM
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Re: [phUnk] Anasazi or Galileo [In reply to]
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I think I might just go with the anasazi. I realized my foot is about mid width.

As MAD rOcks are concerned, I have a pair of mad rock Flash's, but I just need a better bouldering shoe.


hugin


Apr 19, 2007, 8:20 PM
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Re: [phUnk] Anasazi or Galileo [In reply to]
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phUnk wrote:
hugin wrote:
The Anasazis are a much more aggressive last, while the Galileos are somewhat more of an all around shoe.
That's not true. I have both and as of 2006, they have nearly identical lasts.

I don't buy it ... even just looking at pictures, you can see space between the ground and the sole of the anasazi because of its down-turned shape, while the Galileo sits flush ... it's a straight, stiff sole. Maybe it's just the pictures I've seen.

Pictures aside, you can definitely feel a difference in the shoe shape when climbing on them. I don't remember what year the models I was trying out were, though. That was quite a few months ago.


phUnk


Apr 20, 2007, 3:29 AM
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Re: [hugin] Anasazi or Galileo [In reply to]
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hugin wrote:
phUnk wrote:
That's not true. I have both and as of 2006, they have nearly identical lasts.

I don't buy it ... even just looking at pictures, you can see space between the ground and the sole of the anasazi because of its down-turned shape, while the Galileo sits flush ... it's a straight, stiff sole. Maybe it's just the pictures I've seen.

Pictures aside, you can definitely feel a difference in the shoe shape when climbing on them. I don't remember what year the models I was trying out were, though. That was quite a few months ago.
So you're refuting my experience with the two shoes I climb in regularly, based on pictures you've seen and shoes you've tried on in a shop? Laugh

I'll agree that the Galileo is a little flatter, but I don't see (or feel) that much difference between the two. Here, I made you a picture. It looks like more difference than I expected it would, but I still think they're not wildly different shoes.




(This post was edited by phUnk on Apr 20, 2007, 3:30 AM)
Attachments: 2006-anasazi_vs_2006-galileo.JPG (47.2 KB)


hugin


Apr 23, 2007, 12:42 AM
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Re: [phUnk] Anasazi or Galileo [In reply to]
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Well, I climb in the Galileos, pretty much exclusively right now. A *long* time ago (like, when they were first put on the market) I had a pair of Anasazis, but my recent experience was when I tried some out to see if I'd rather have those than some new Galileos.

So, no, I didn't just try them on in the store. I do have a good amount of experience climbing in at least one of the two shoes here, and can speak to the differences I felt when trying out the other. The Anasazis feel like a much more aggressive shoe.

Thing is, 5.10 doesn't say much about the construction of the shoes on their site except some very qualitative statements, which makes it hard to evaluate on anything but feel and look. They look significantly different, particularly if you consider that even slight differences in shape can make large differences in how they climb, especially on technical problems.

My conclusion: Go with Acopa.


jibsta


Apr 23, 2007, 7:39 PM
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Re: [hugin] Anasazi or Galileo [In reply to]
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acopa sucks, one of friends had to replace a pair 4 times to fix the rubber at the fron t from coming off after a couple of days climbing. I like the alileo's the best because they are the stiffest even after a resole. The anasazi verdes are awesome too, even when loose they stick the slipery rock.


hugin


Apr 24, 2007, 12:14 AM
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Re: [jibsta] Anasazi or Galileo [In reply to]
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I had a pair of B3s that lasted me nearly a year before I blew the toe out. I wore them until I actually scraped my toe while climbing (kinda silly of me ... I should have just had them resoled, but I didn't want to fuck with their perfection). Great shoes, and I would have gone back to Acopa if I didn't need a pair pretty much right away and found they weren't available in any brick and mortar climbing shop in LA. There are bad batches of any product. Don't judge the whole line on a single bad experience.


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