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Non-Trad Leads at E-rock?
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twelvestringtex


Apr 27, 2007, 9:23 PM
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Non-Trad Leads at E-rock?  (North_America: United_States: Texas: South_Central_Texas: Enchanted_Rock_State_Park)
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I'm planning a trip out to E-rock in about a month and a half, and we have webbing, quickdraws, and a 60m rope.

I'm looking for any suggestions on Top-rope or Lead routes that could be climbed with this equipment.

EDIT: anything up to 5.10 is fine, and easier routes can be enjoyable for the rest of my group.


(This post was edited by twelvestringtex on Apr 27, 2007, 10:12 PM)


slowkid
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Apr 27, 2007, 9:46 PM
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Re: [twelvestringtex] Non-Trad Leads at E-rock? [In reply to]
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Warm up on TR at Motorboat Rock. Short climbs, but Ben's Dilemma is a fun problem. To the right of MB rock there is a fun little lead .9+??, 2 bolts, on a stand alone spire(sorry. can't remember the name). Head to the backside of the main dome for some great .9-.11 technical slab climbing. Wear pants. The granite will tear up your legs if you fall. I've only been there a couple of times, so that's the extent of my knowledge. Have fun.


the_dave


Apr 27, 2007, 10:00 PM
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Re: [twelvestringtex] Non-Trad Leads at E-rock? [In reply to]
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There's not too many good leads at E-Rock mostly it's trad and bouldering... If you're looking for a great sport climbing place, not too far away go to Reimers


twelvestringtex


Apr 27, 2007, 10:08 PM
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Re: [the_dave] Non-Trad Leads at E-rock? [In reply to]
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unfortunately i'm going with a friend from Austin, who has already exploited alot of reimer's, and would prefer to go somewhere new.


8flood8


Apr 27, 2007, 10:08 PM
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Re: [twelvestringtex] Non-Trad Leads at E-rock? [In reply to]
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there is enough to keep you busy. how hard are you looking to climb?

most of the sport is just runout technical slab, other than that, boulder or climb trad

you can toprope at triple cracks (if someone is bold enough to run up the 5.6 slabby dihedral to the anchor above grass crack.

you can climb prosweat 5.9 slab or no sweat a 5.6 and get access to sweat which is a 5.7 crack on the back side

mark of the beast on the backside.

If you have enough webbing you guys can build tr anchors most anywhere that you can boulder up and around.


(This post was edited by 8flood8 on Apr 27, 2007, 10:12 PM)


twelvestringtex


Apr 27, 2007, 10:11 PM
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Re: [8flood8] Non-Trad Leads at E-rock? [In reply to]
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anything up to 5.10 is fine with me.


8flood8


Apr 29, 2007, 2:10 AM
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Re: [twelvestringtex] Non-Trad Leads at E-rock? [In reply to]
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devils slide wall and cheap wine wall on the backside of the main dome have tons of bolts for you to clip on... but not much for you to hold on to... its all slabby


unreleasedenergy


Apr 29, 2007, 2:25 AM
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Re: [8flood8] Non-Trad Leads at E-rock? [In reply to]
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Mark of the beast on devils slide.
its bolted, easy 5.8, three pitches of typical runout slab and friction climbing

texas radio and mexican radio i remember were both good to.


(This post was edited by unreleasedenergy on Apr 29, 2007, 2:27 AM)


ccard257


Apr 29, 2007, 3:17 AM
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Re: [unreleasedenergy] Non-Trad Leads at E-rock? [In reply to]
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Turkey peak has a couple of eights and a nine that are short sport climbs. you can also put top ropes on em without leading anything. like someone else said mororboat has several climbs with easy to set up topropes and pro sweat is good. Solo is another 5.8 sport lead in the kingdom of zilch. have fun.


musicman1586


Apr 29, 2007, 3:43 AM
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Re: [ccard257] Non-Trad Leads at E-rock? [In reply to]
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I'd say check out Sean's book if you have the oppurtunity, don't even really need to buy it, flip through the different areas and note which areas have the most routes that suit what your looking for, what people have said already is pretty much it however, it's sport slabs, trad cracks, or boulders with sketchy landings or highballs Tongue
Kyle
What weekend are you going to be out there? I doubt I won't be doing trad, but who knows maybe I'll be in the mood for some slabs, its been a while, quite a while.


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