May 1, 2007, 4:41 AM
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Your favorite brand of shoe rubber (Poll)
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I'm in need of a resole, and thought I'd put up a poll for people's favorite shoe rubber. I found some stuff in the forums, but didn't find any polls (sorry if they exist and I missed them). I've probably left some out, and might not have all of those choices where I get them resoled but I'm just wondering what people prefer. I have Stealth myself, but have heard good things about Vibram...poll away, and thanks in advance for the input. Cheers, Justin
You'd be better off dipping the shoes in Vaseline than using boreal rubber. The others are pretty equivalent. Stealth just tends to be the easiest to find a kit for. Sportiva's XSV is good stuff, but straight vibram is crap. Haven't had problems with Scarpa's rubber either.
I go with Vibram (XSV). It seems slightly harder and seems to edge a tad better than the stealth, and smears very well on the right shoe. It seems to last a bit longer on rough granite too, which is what I'm usually climbing. If I were climbing slick rock, I'd possibly lean more toward Stealth.
I've heard good things from at least one professional climber that is now climbing in Boreal shoes. He told me that the finishing process for the rubber has been changed and it sticks well.
May 1, 2007, 6:20 PM
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Re: [caughtinside] Your favorite brand of shoe rubber (Poll)
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Ok, i love mad rubber. Yes, I nee to replace it each season, but its freaking cheap and grips like a fat lady on a cake. Shitty for cracks, but choice for faces and indoor climbing.
May 1, 2007, 6:46 PM
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Re: [carabiner96] Your favorite brand of shoe rubber (Poll)
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This has been asked a thousand times on here! Do a search NOOB!
Allrightythen!
That said:
My experiance with resoleing shoes has lef tme with this...
I find 5.10 rubber to be easy to work with while resoling, definitly has high preformance, and wears great. (most often my choice for resoling)
Vibram overall isn't much it any harder to work with, great preformance, seems to be a softer compound, wears slightly faster, has very high performance when new but dropps of a little faster. (didn't use it as often for resoling, but was always impressed with it)
It really is a matter of what you like. I've climber on both and resoled with both. Typically my shoes were so far gone that any new sole was a world of difference.
So, there is me not answering the question. Oh, and Boreal rubber isn't as bad as most say.
Vibram on the Testarossa. The combination turns anything into a foot jib, or perfect heal hook. Sometimes I just levitate next to the rock because Vibram seems to have a built in antigravity device.
May 1, 2007, 9:13 PM
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Re: [percious] Your favorite brand of shoe rubber (Poll)
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percious wrote:
Need some more options on your poll!
I use Evolv rubber. Luv Luv Luv it. Pretty cheap for re-sole too:
http://www.evolvesports.com/service-resole.htm
cheers. -percious
I would have to agree. I voted Vibram out of the options you have listed, but my first preference would be Trax.
I should also probably throw in that Mad Rubber is excellently sticky, but it's also the least durable rubber on the market. I still think Trax strikes the best balance.
(This post was edited by ja1484 on May 1, 2007, 10:08 PM)
What type of rubber you get should depend on what type of climbing you plan on doing, a harder based compound is going to be better for edging wear a softer based rubber is better for smearing. so take into account wear you will climb the most... cracks, faces, gym; and then think about the rocks you will be climbing are they mostly granite etc...
Thanks everybody. I went to a place called Manito Shoe Repair in Spokane today (who I recommend...I mentioned how dirty they were, and he said he'd clean them up no charge...nice fellow). I guess all they offer is the Vibram rubber, so that's what I'm going with. Climbing Vantage weekend after next, and can't wait!!! cheers, Justin
I would just like to make a comment about boreal rubber. I just got my hands on a pair of pirana's recently. A friend recommended them to me and I used to love climbing in boreals as a kid. I found a pair online that were on sale so I had to go for it. They have the new quattro FS rubber and I think that the FS rubber is easily comparable to any other brand rubber on the market. I have a couple pairs of 5.10s with both the c4 and stealth rubber, and a pair of sportivas. I would compare the quattro FS to the feel of the stealth rubber. However, I havent had a lot of time to climb in them yet so my thoughts arent as tested as they should be. I guess my point is: despite the boreal bashing of the last couple years I think their new rubber and new shoes are on the top level of any brand! ... that being said.... I voted for the stealth, lol. -john
(This post was edited by toohigh on May 2, 2007, 1:48 AM)
May 2, 2007, 2:13 AM
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Re: [socalbolter] Your favorite brand of shoe rubber (Poll)
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socalbolter wrote:
Mad Rubber.
The newer versions last much longer than the original, but it's still the stickiest I've tried.
I dispute this.
I have a pair of the new Mugens right now that are a VERY big improvement over the old model. It also helps that they are the comfiest shoe I've ever worn.
But the rubber wears out just as fast as the old stuff.
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