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socalbolter
May 11, 2007, 2:57 PM
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Registered: Mar 27, 2002
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So, for those in the know, Arizona is full of hidden sport climbing potential. There are many different types of rock to be found in the state, with a variety of different cliff heights and steepnesses. One thing that Arizona is not necessarily known for (at least not yet) is the sport climber's godsend- LIMESTONE.
There has always been talk of little limestone outcroppings here and there and for years I had heard that some of it was pretty good, but I had no idea the magnitude of the state's offerings until I started to check the areas out myself. After several trips I can safely say that the rumors were all true. If anything they were understated.
Why more people are not bolting and climbing at these areas amazes me. Here's a few pictures from my most recent trip to The Homestead to maybe wake up some of those climbers lucky enough to live close to this fine crag.
Dave Stephens on Ganja - 12d.
This is one of the routes that I bolted this Spring over on the Marley Wall. I found three great lines over there that caught my eye and turned out to be great routes and there are perhaps 40 more lines to be done on that section of cliff alone.
One of the best things that The Homestead has going for it is the range of grades to be found at the crag. There is everything from 5.7 to 13d, with room for dozens more at each of those grades. One of the newest walls to be developed is the Mouse Wall. This long band of chert and fossil-filled, grey limestone offers shorter routes (4-7 bolts) and primarily more-moderate grades. There are only 8 routes so far on this wall, but there is room for perhaps 50 more lines to be done. Here's a picture of Sally Hennessee on one of the brand new ones. It's called SLow Poke and is 11a.
For the intermediate to advanced climber, the long section of cliff collectively known as Finland (actually three separate climbing sectors) is the main draw. This cliff is filled with bulging overhangs and liberally featured with tufa of all shapes and sizes. I know of nowhere else in the United States where a climber could find this proliferation of tufa to climb on. As with the rest of the crag, there is still much potential for new routes to be added to the walls of Finland. Here's a shot of Matt Hulet on one of the classic Finland 5.11's. This one is called Ground Effects - 11c.
The weather is starting to warm up a bit at the crag, but you should definitely put this area on your list of crags to check out. You won't regret visiting. And if you are into doing new routes - you'll have more options than you can imagine.
There are also other limestone canyons in the immediate area, most notably El Cap Canyon, just a few miles up the road toward Globe.
I hope you can all come to enjoy this great crag as I have.
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gecko4
May 11, 2007, 3:41 PM
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Registered: Mar 8, 2005
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socal,
Yes there are many cragging areas out in the Mescals and nearby mountain ranges.
You might want to visit a land ownership map and make note of the State Trust Land as you exit the highway (I assume you and all other visitors have a permit fromt the state? citations can be pricey) and the private property as you go through a gate or two (the corral area) and the private property at the end of the road where the trail into the crags begins. (I believe this is a plot that perhaps was an original homestead, thus the name?) According to the maps, some of the crags are actually on this private property.
When I have gone out there nothing has been posted against trespassing to keep us from going in, but as with El Cap Canyon, that can change in a heartbeat if somebody does something that offends the land owners. For instance, damaging a fence, camping near a corral or animal water source whether seeimingly active or not can really agitate a rancher.
The local land owners were always kind and considerate as long as I was too.
It would be a great opportunity for you to get the Access Fund involved given the potential access problems and the fragile environment in that area.
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socalbolter
May 12, 2007, 4:50 PM
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Registered: Mar 27, 2002
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As gecko4 said above, when approaching The Homestead, you pass through a short section of Arizona State Land Trust property. This is the case at many of Arizona's backcountry recreational areas.
An annual pass is only $15 per person and is good at all areas within the state.
You can obtain a permit many different ways. This website:
http://www.land.state.az.us/...ecreation_permit.htm
has all of the information you will need to obtain and learn more about the permit.
There has been a long-standing acceptance of climbers and other user groups enjoying this area, but as stated above, do your part to not abuse this privilege.
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daviduzi
May 29, 2007, 2:48 AM
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Registered: Jan 22, 2004
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i have been climbing here since the second season over 7 years ago. there is no private property at this crag. pete owns the cattle rights to the area which is also why the gates need to be shut after passing through. you do not need a state trust permit to pass through state trust land. i have spoken with land governing agencies about this before. after the second gate it is all blm land. the crew have spoken to many locals about the area and i found out recently that it was not used as a homestead. people have been using the area for cattle grazing mainly.
i agree with you guys about getting the access fund involved. it would be terrible to lose access to this beautiful canyon.
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gecko4
May 30, 2007, 5:13 AM
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Registered: Mar 8, 2005
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FYI: Here’s my source and the information I based my post upon. Pardon the legalese, but thought I'd give you what I found so you can check it out for yourself.
Gila County Assessor’s Web Site
Map 102-36-01
Township 3 South, Range 15 East
See parcels:
102-36-14, legal: SW SW SEC 14 3S 15E 40AC, owner of record: Dripping Springs Ranch, LLC (1st private parcel as you go in)
102-36-006A, legal: TH S2 OF S2 SEC 15 T3S R15E; APPROX 160 ACRES; - 6.67 ACRES OF
HWY 77 = 153.33 ACRES M/L (OUT OF 201-36-005 & 006), (2nd private parcel encountered when going in), owner of record: Boyd Angela J
102-36-005A, legal: TH N2 & TH N2 OF S2 SEC 15 T3S R15E; APPROX 480 ACRES; - 7.09
ACRES OF HWY 77 = 472.91 ACRES M/L (OUT OF 102-36-005 & 006), (3rd private parcel encountered when going in) owner or record: Boyd Angela J
102-36-12, legal: SW NW; NE SW & N2 SE SEC 14 3S 15E 160AC, Dripping Springs Ranch, LLC (4th private parcel when going in, The NE SW & . . . is the land upon which the parking area, the trail, and several crags sit according to the topo maps.)
I have a map of it all with the road and I'll post when I get the time.
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