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eightdirtypaws
Oct 3, 2002, 8:44 PM
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I've read all these posts and no one has mentioned the most obvious thing. At my gym, folks are not permitted to put up any old route they want. And I understand the reason for this: Can you even imagine if they let every Tom, Dick and Harry put up routes? You wouldn't even be able to SEE the walls for all the damn tape!!
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acrophobic
Oct 4, 2002, 4:45 PM
Post #27 of 52
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Ditto here. At my gym you need staff permission. They also list all routes in a book at the front. They also don't really allow you to tape boulder problems either.. That would be a mess of tape if so... plus it's not hard to really remember 5 or 6 moves... so do you really need tape? Also before they are taped you should really see if shorter people can do it. The staff usually has a 5'2 girl try it if a 5'11 guy set it. Maybe that is why they are being yanked.. becuase it is impossible for some people to do?
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mother_sheep
Oct 4, 2002, 5:11 PM
Post #28 of 52
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Not sure if this was already mentioned or not. Maybe you should have a few people, gym employees or other rats, try out your routes before you are finished. Then make changes or adjustments if necessary.
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talons05
Oct 4, 2002, 5:46 PM
Post #29 of 52
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Gym Manners??? Isn't that a contradiction of terms? A.W.
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xanx
Oct 5, 2002, 3:38 AM
Post #30 of 52
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few things to add: 1) i am an employee 2) yes, just about anyone is allowed to tape boulder problems, nothing is graded (ever) and nothing is recorded or anything like that. 3) i am about 5'6" or so 4) they were all under v5 cause i could do them
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Hendu3p
May 19, 2007, 2:54 PM
Post #31 of 52
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Assuming you had permission and understood the rules and all that, the proper way a person should address your route is to find you first, discuss any problems or changes that need to be made, and then help you come up with a plan to change it. First check and see that you adhered to gym policy. Then seek out the person for direct, but polite and constructive confrontation. No matter who might have been in "the wrong", no direct feedback or confrontation before the change is made is very rude and inconsiderate.
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zeke_sf
May 19, 2007, 3:02 PM
Post #32 of 52
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I seriously hope xanx hasn't been waiting 5 years for an answer.
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limeydave
May 19, 2007, 3:53 PM
Post #33 of 52
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He aint been round these parts for 18months or so according to his profile. Probably went outdoors discovered V4 out there and had a heart attack
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ottabox
May 19, 2007, 7:08 PM
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janjaf wrote: Oh come on, you routesetters. :-) Even if someone puitrs up a lousy route so what ? I've never ever heard of anybody tearing down a bad route back here. In my opinion most routesetters are best at putting up routes at their own skill level, and so routes should be put up but all sorts of climbers. Some one posted a link to rockcomps.com, so that the poor newbie might get a few pointers on how to set up routes there. Well, their first advice is to get experience, and "It requires time and dedication – practice makes perfect" how's the man going to practice if you tear down his problems ? I can understand it, if you really have some insurance issues to deal with, but i have a hard time believing that. And maybe, if you gym is very small, you might need to have only top-quality routes... Thank you. This is just what I was thinking when I read this thread. Additionally, if you want to know if your routes are good quality, ask a few experienced climbers to try it. You might have a knack for it or you could be delusional (we all are). Feedback that you can trust can be very helpful. BTW, my gym loves it when people show initiative and put up routes.
(This post was edited by ottabox on May 19, 2007, 7:10 PM)
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Hendu3p
May 25, 2007, 5:50 PM
Post #35 of 52
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Check out routesetter.com for more insight on this. There are a few forum postings dealing with volunteers and routesetter qualifications. Routesetters take a lot of pride in their work and climbers need to really respect that. If you are wondering about what routesetters are thinking on this subject, that is a great place to go.
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cracklover
May 25, 2007, 6:50 PM
Post #37 of 52
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Jesus, is the forum so boring these days that we need to raise five year old threads from the dead? And if the answer to that is yes, can we at least raise better threads!!!? GO
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quiteatingmysteak
May 25, 2007, 7:04 PM
Post #38 of 52
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xanx wrote: few things to add: 1) i am an employee 2) yes, just about anyone is allowed to tape boulder problems, nothing is graded (ever) and nothing is recorded or anything like that. 3) i am about 5'6" or so 4) they were all under v5 cause i could do them hey mang just a *quick* pointer. I was a coursesetter while on staff at a gym a while back. I don't recommend it. It is not easy! Everyone is different, and you can't please everyone, so if you dont like criticism, don't get into it :D The best bet is to set fun, moderate moves. Play it safe. No backward dyno's to heelhook BS - let people know your not just another gymbie As far as setting on the boulder, I have about 2 dozen routes on the boulder at my gym, 0 tape. Just remember the sequence. It lets you do more actual climbing, and if you do want to show someone, use a little bit of chalk to tickmark. Odds are, if you put up 5 taped routes or 15 "ideas," the ideas might yeild better results. and climb outside :) i don't doubt that you can onsight 5'9", but if you like to try a good V4 i suggest Stem Gem. And a couple of phonebooks! edit: OH FUCK 5 years old??? I wont delete this so you can all laugh at me
(This post was edited by quiteatingmysteak on May 25, 2007, 7:27 PM)
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easton
May 25, 2007, 7:49 PM
Post #39 of 52
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[quote "bsperes"]I work at the gym where I climb and tear down "unauthorized" routes all the time. We have various reasons for doing this, not the least of which is insurance.[/quote] So your insurance thinks the route has anything to do with safety/liability? I'd get a new insurance company. Sounds like someone in management didn't have a good reason for pulling down the routes, so they just dumped it on insurance.
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coastal_climber
May 27, 2007, 2:30 AM
Post #40 of 52
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I work at a local gym, and there is a gym shit who is an asshole. Don't take any crap. >Cam
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zeke_sf
May 27, 2007, 3:45 PM
Post #41 of 52
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quiteatingmysteak wrote: OH FUCK 5 years old??? I wont delete this so you can all laugh at me HaHa
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evanwish
May 30, 2007, 7:19 PM
Post #42 of 52
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Registered: May 23, 2007
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yeah! those actions of those dismantling and defacing YOUR route are unexceptable! If they don't like your route because it's to wierd or akward, well they need to get better and try the route then. that's amasing you climb v4 but only 5.9 i climb 5.12b but only v4 and sometimes v5 keep up the route setting. and after 8 months your not a noob. :)
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j_ung
May 30, 2007, 7:34 PM
Post #43 of 52
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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He might be a has been.
(This post was edited by j_ung on May 30, 2007, 7:35 PM)
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duppyc
May 30, 2007, 9:04 PM
Post #44 of 52
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Registered: Oct 20, 2005
Posts: 55
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Bouldering is gay anyhow....rope up!!!
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CaptainPolution
May 25, 2008, 2:21 AM
Post #45 of 52
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Registered: Jul 10, 2007
Posts: 330
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evanwish wrote: yeah! those actions of those dismantling and defacing YOUR route are unexceptable! If they don't like your route because it's to wierd or akward, well they need to get better and try the route then. that's amasing you climb v4 but only 5.9 i climb 5.12b but only v4 and sometimes v5 keep up the route setting. and after 8 months your not a noob. :) LULZ! lets all compare the rating we can climb inside!
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kriso9tails
May 26, 2008, 5:38 PM
Post #46 of 52
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Registered: Jul 1, 2001
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CaptainPolution wrote: evanwish wrote: yeah! those actions of those dismantling and defacing YOUR route are unexceptable! If they don't like your route because it's to wierd or akward, well they need to get better and try the route then. that's amasing you climb v4 but only 5.9 i climb 5.12b but only v4 and sometimes v5 keep up the route setting. and after 8 months your not a noob. :) LULZ! lets all compare the rating we can climb inside! Double revival for this thread... awesome. I can't climb at any grade level inside: thy gyms all want my money and I ain't gots none.
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climbsomething
May 26, 2008, 7:49 PM
Post #47 of 52
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evanwish wrote: after 8 months your not a noob. :) *fights urge to re-set sig...
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CaptainPolution
May 27, 2008, 2:08 AM
Post #48 of 52
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kriso9tails wrote: CaptainPolution wrote: evanwish wrote: yeah! those actions of those dismantling and defacing YOUR route are unexceptable! If they don't like your route because it's to wierd or akward, well they need to get better and try the route then. that's amasing you climb v4 but only 5.9 i climb 5.12b but only v4 and sometimes v5 keep up the route setting. and after 8 months your not a noob. :) LULZ! lets all compare the rating we can climb inside! Double revival for this thread... awesome. I can't climb at any grade level inside: thy gyms all want my money and I ain't gots none. LOL woops. I dont check dates on threads when I come across them randomly
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j_ung
May 27, 2008, 11:59 PM
Post #49 of 52
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climbsomething wrote: evanwish wrote: after 8 months your not a noob. :) *fights urge to re-set sig... Do it! DO. IT.
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ryan00013
Aug 10, 2008, 2:44 AM
Post #50 of 52
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Registered: Apr 27, 2008
Posts: 22
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Oh em gee REVIVE!
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