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northfacejmb


May 11, 2007, 8:17 PM
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Enchanted Rock  (North_America: United_States: Texas: South_Central_Texas: Enchanted_Rock_State_Park)
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I'm about to go on a trip to Austin and I'm very interested in Enchanted Rock. I'm looking for some top rope routes in the 5.8-5.10ish range.


(This post was edited by northfacejmb on May 11, 2007, 8:18 PM)


jfhdenver


May 11, 2007, 8:53 PM
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Re: [northfacejmb] Enchanted Rock [In reply to]
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check out erockonline.com those guys will be able to give you good info on routes. But i can tell you right now that its gonna be hot...


northfacejmb


May 11, 2007, 11:13 PM
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Re: [jfhdenver] Enchanted Rock [In reply to]
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it wouldn't be Texas if it wasn't


climbingaggie03


May 12, 2007, 12:10 AM
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Re: [northfacejmb] Enchanted Rock [In reply to]
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can you set up top ropes with gear? or do you need bolts and bushes?


northfacejmb


May 12, 2007, 1:08 AM
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Re: [climbingaggie03] Enchanted Rock [In reply to]
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unfortunatly I'll have to go with bolts and bushes


climbingaggie03


May 12, 2007, 9:04 PM
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Re: [northfacejmb] Enchanted Rock [In reply to]
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Ok, well then in that case there's not tons you can climb, but there are some good spots, Motorboat rock has around like 7 climbs that are pretty easy to set up. It also will have lots of people.

You could also hike to the top of the backside and rap a route and then climb it, or you can set up sling shot top ropes it you have 2 ropes, or a long cordelette/anchor rope to extend your anchor. Some of the Prok routes are shorter and don't need that much rope.

If you are comfortable, you could free solo no sweat (5.4) and set up sweat (5.6) it's a great crack climb.

I bet there are some more climbs that you can set up, but I can't think of them. I reccomend the guide book by sean grady, you can buy it at REI in austin, or at the visitor center at E-rock.


veggieweggie


May 13, 2007, 12:27 AM
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Re: [northfacejmb] Enchanted Rock [In reply to]
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Turkey Peak also has some routes that are very easy to set up on top rope (this is where I first climbed...) there are two 5.8's and a 5.9 w/ bolts at the top (i think) and a long 5.10 that you have to set up an anchor for.

There is a cool crack w/ top rope anchors out on Buzzards roost (quite a hike out there though). Oh and if you set up Sweat you should do Pro Sweat also, its a 5.9 slab to the right of the crack

Also, if you'll be in austin, have you checked out Reimers? Much different type of climbing, but it easy to set up top ropes on the Dead Cats wall.


northfacejmb


May 13, 2007, 3:58 AM
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Re: [climbingaggie03] Enchanted Rock [In reply to]
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I have 30ft of uncut webbing, and I'm about to buy 60ft to cut into runners and such. Would this be sufficient?


northfacejmb


May 13, 2007, 4:12 AM
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Re: [veggieweggie] Enchanted Rock [In reply to]
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It's possible that I will go to Reimers, but I would more likely go to Pace Bend.


climbingaggie03


May 14, 2007, 12:03 AM
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Re: [northfacejmb] Enchanted Rock [In reply to]
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30ft and 60 ft of webbing should be enough, I'd wait to cut it til after the trip. Most of the routes I can think of that will be easy set ups are bolts.

I forgot about the climbs on turkey peak, that'd be a good half day of climbing and easy set ups. The scramble to the top is technical but not hard.

I think all that pace bend has for climbing is deep water soloing.

Reimers is fun, but I think you'll be fairly limited on the climbs you can do if you're not leading.


northfacejmb


May 14, 2007, 2:43 PM
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Re: [climbingaggie03] Enchanted Rock [In reply to]
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are the routes at turkey peak easy to find?


climbingaggie03


May 14, 2007, 4:03 PM
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Re: [northfacejmb] Enchanted Rock [In reply to]
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pretty easy, they are on the side of the peak that you can see from the parking lot. You follow the trail past a little pond/mud puddle and you hike up the left side of the formation. Make your way to the (south?) face you can see from the parking lot and then you will see the lines of bolts. The scramble is to the left of the climbs.


bigfatrock


May 14, 2007, 4:55 PM
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Re: [northfacejmb] Enchanted Rock [In reply to]
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There are quite a few options in Echo Canyon. There are many routes that can be accessed by some easy scrambling to set up a top rope on bolts or via anchors on trees or boulders. Check out the three cracks area. Three good climbs right next to each other.


northfacejmb


May 14, 2007, 4:56 PM
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Re: [climbingaggie03] Enchanted Rock [In reply to]
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what would be the best day of the week to go?


veggieweggie


May 14, 2007, 5:09 PM
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Re: [northfacejmb] Enchanted Rock [In reply to]
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The weekends (particularly saturday) can be busy, and you may have a loud herd of boy scouts next to you. any weekday the place will be almost deserted.

Is there a way to top rope triple cracks w/o soloing the 5.4 or 5.5 off to the left?


climbingaggie03


May 15, 2007, 2:28 AM
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Re: [veggieweggie] Enchanted Rock [In reply to]
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Yeah, you can down climb or rap to the anchor bolts above grass crack, Probably best to have a rope on you one way or another.


northfacejmb


May 17, 2007, 8:28 PM
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Re: [climbingaggie03] Enchanted Rock [In reply to]
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what is the approach time to Turkey Peak? and about how far is that from Echo canyon?


climbingaggie03


May 19, 2007, 5:22 PM
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Re: [northfacejmb] Enchanted Rock [In reply to]
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The approach for turkey peak is like 20 mins from the parking lot, it'd probably be 50 mins to an hour from echo canyon. They are in different directions from the parking lot and the main dome is between echo canyon and turkey peak so you have to go around or over both of which take a while.


8flood8


May 19, 2007, 6:17 PM
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Re: [climbingaggie03] Enchanted Rock [In reply to]
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you can boulder up behind grass crack its like a 5.4 with barely one commiting move to get up. then you go around and you will have

grass crack 10, grass direct 11a slab, middle crack 5.8, becky's crack 5.8, and owl crack 5.8

although if you get on owl crack you would want a directional up top (not possible without gear)

When are you planning on going, i love climbing at erock and i have tons of gear, so you wouldn't be relegated to arbitrary toproping.

my phone # is in my profile if you wanna meet up


twelvestringtex


Jun 6, 2007, 4:02 AM
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Re: [climbingaggie03] Enchanted Rock [In reply to]
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over spring break myself and a group of friends hit up E-rock and the triple cracks, we came at the anchors from the top of the dome and it was a little scary climbing down for some of the parts.

We'll be up there this weekend for a second round.


climbingaggie03


Jun 9, 2007, 6:50 PM
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Re: [twelvestringtex] Enchanted Rock [In reply to]
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yeah, it can be a little sketchy, but there are some easier places to get down to the ledge. If you stay to the climbers right/skiers left of the backside it's easier to get down. Have fun out there and be safe.


northfacejmb


Jun 9, 2007, 10:25 PM
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Re: [climbingaggie03] Enchanted Rock [In reply to]
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It turns out we weren't able to go Pirate. The weekend we were in Austin it didn't stop raining. So instead we went to a gym in austin and climbed all day.


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