Forums: Climbing Information: Regional Discussions:
best offset TCU size for the valley?
RSS FeedRSS Feeds for Regional Discussions

Premier Sponsor:

 


phile


Jun 7, 2007, 8:19 PM
Post #1 of 7 (1935 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 5, 2004
Posts: 114

best offset TCU size for the valley?  (North_America: United_States: California: Yosemite_National_Park: _Park_Overview_)
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

if you were going to bring one offset tcu to the valley on your free climb rack, which one would you choose?


8flood8


Jun 7, 2007, 8:23 PM
Post #2 of 7 (1929 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Nov 10, 2004
Posts: 1436

Re: [phile] best offset TCU size for the valley? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

something huge.

everything i got on had at least some one spot that was offwidth...

but i don't know how big they make those offsets... so if you talking about gear that only goes up to fat fingers... something that you can plug in a pin scar


caughtinside


Jun 7, 2007, 8:24 PM
Post #3 of 7 (1928 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 8, 2003
Posts: 30603

Re: [phile] best offset TCU size for the valley? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

I'd either bring the two larger sizes or none at all.

I often take the two larger alien hybrids, they fit great in angle scars, of which the valley has plenty.

If you're contemplating buying one offset cams for this trip though, I'd say don't bother. Either get a few so you have a size selection, or get a regular cam that will be more versatile.


phile


Jun 7, 2007, 9:39 PM
Post #4 of 7 (1901 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 5, 2004
Posts: 114

Re: [caughtinside] best offset TCU size for the valley? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

this would be in addition to a full rack, and would mostly be for pin scars. I'm wondering what size would fit in the most scars (5.10 and below).


vegastradguy


Jun 7, 2007, 9:53 PM
Post #5 of 7 (1894 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 28, 2002
Posts: 5919

Re: [phile] best offset TCU size for the valley? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

yellow-blue or yellow-orange. probably yellow-blue.

that said, i rarely take offset cams up free routes in the valley- sure they're useful now and then, but they really are an aid tool.

now, offset stoppers on the other hand.....if you have some or can get your paws on a set of aluminum HB's, you'll be pretty happy.....


phile


Jun 8, 2007, 12:58 AM
Post #6 of 7 (1868 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Aug 5, 2004
Posts: 114

Re: [vegastradguy] best offset TCU size for the valley? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

oh! I had the sense they were more useful than that. good to know.

(people might have been talking about aid without my realizing it...)


(This post was edited by phile on Jun 8, 2007, 1:00 AM)


summerprophet


Jun 8, 2007, 4:20 PM
Post #7 of 7 (1844 views)
Shortcut

Registered: Jan 17, 2004
Posts: 764

Re: [phile] best offset TCU size for the valley? [In reply to]
Report this Post
Average: avg_1 avg_2 avg_3 avg_4 avg_5 (0 ratings)  
Can't Post

Phile,
Offset cams are nut required for the valley, Especially at the 5.10 and below level. There are some certain climbs where they would be needed, (Serenity comes to mind) but those climbs are few.
For the most part in the under 5.10 range, the pin scars take regular nuts pretty well.

If you have the cash and want to get gear for a valley trip, I would suggest a whole second set of nuts, or a spare 1,2 or 3 Camalot (or equivalent)


Forums : Climbing Information : Regional Discussions

 


Search for (options)

Log In:

Username:
Password: Remember me:

Go Register
Go Lost Password?



Follow us on Twiter Become a Fan on Facebook