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winkwinklambonini
Sep 29, 2002, 12:35 AM
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How would you approach bouldering as training for the real thing?
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boss
Sep 30, 2002, 12:09 AM
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Practice making sound placements while you're bouldering. Better to get the hang of it while you're only a few feet off the ground.
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stanagesi
Oct 9, 2002, 9:46 AM
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There is no better form of training for climbing than bouldering. Traverses build fantastic stamina and short hard moves put on the power. Outdoor bouldering gives far more technique than indoor!
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boesgaard
Oct 9, 2002, 10:51 AM
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On my local boulderwall, we have bolts here and there. So its possible to tie in to a rope (4-5 meters), bring some quickdraws and go for and endless lead...
Have'nt tried it yet, but I would think it would be good training. Not at all like the real thing (and less fun...), but when you live in country with no mountains and crap weather in the winter-months - its better than nothing :-)
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mreardon
Oct 9, 2002, 10:24 PM
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I follow three rules when I'm out bouldering and training to get some hard trad:
1. Always do a new move each session, no matter what the grade is. This forces me to constantly try new things and learn new techniques;
2. Try moves that are way beyond me (2-3 grades above any possible sending ability) because it forces me to push my personal limits (and sometimes stick a move and in turn get stronger);
3. Highball to learn how to keep my head together when in a precarious position. As we all know, trad is mostly mental because you tend to get some great rests on routes, but the crux moves in between can be runout, thinly protected, or just plain bold moves. I would rather test my head at my limits 15-20 feet off the deck with a crashpad and a spotter than 40 feet out on some tiny nut I'm sure popped out.
Just my two cents
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grandwall
Oct 9, 2002, 11:08 PM
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"The real thing"? Are you implying that bouldering is fake?
Approach: I don't boulder to train, I boulder because I enjoy it.
I think that bouldering is essential for strength gains. The way I see it is when you go trad climbing you may take a fall 2 or 3 times a day based on your tolerance for risk. When you go bouldering and push it you can fall like 30 or 40 times in a day. Based on the differences in intensity here, I think that strength and technique gains come a lot quicker when bouldering.
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thrillseeker05
Oct 9, 2002, 11:24 PM
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Mreardon
Gave some good advice …
Only bouldering really teaches you bouldering.
To learn trad you need to learn placements as well as how to stem and rest so that you can fiddle with your gear to get the placement in. just bouldering around will not teach you that. Also .. only 20 feet off the ground with a crash pad is petty scary… why not be 50 feet off the deck with a rope and maybe only 4 feet above your last placement? For good trad training I have found leading easy routes and placing as many pieces as you can to be the best practice. If you want to boulder then do so. If you want to trad then do that.
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