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reno
Jun 18, 2007, 5:56 PM
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richardvg03 wrote: and you've picked up body parts and put them in a bag before?? I'd like to hear this story.
I don't know about Majid, but I recall a run we did in Atlanta when I worked on the ambulance.
Drunk kid (early 20's and bullet-proof, as such young kids are prone to be,) got on the freeway going the wrong way. His 80+ miles and hour met up came face-to-face with a Ford pickup going the other way, doing somewhere closer to the speed limit (55.)
Outside mirror of truck clipped kid's shoulder, and severed his arm. Kid lost it, slid, and head-first into median wall (no helmet = dead instantly.)
Me, my partner, several cops, and four firefighters spent an hour or so combing through the roadside brush, looking for that kid's arm.
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unreleasedenergy
Jun 18, 2007, 6:11 PM
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looks like a plastic bottle stuffed with webbing. the webbing apears to be tied in a loop
and reinforced.
if i didn't know any better, i'd think your advocating the plastic bottle chokestone trick.
however, i don't think that bottle could handle quite the same forces a nalgene would without deforming.
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fitzontherocks
Jun 18, 2007, 6:19 PM
Post #28 of 144
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reno wrote: richardvg03 wrote: and you've picked up body parts and put them in a bag before?? I'd like to hear this story. I don't know about Majid, but I recall a run we did in Atlanta when I worked on the ambulance.
I think he was talking about the climbing realm.
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richardvg03
Jun 18, 2007, 8:43 PM
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reno wrote: Me, my partner, several cops, and four firefighters spent an hour or so combing through the roadside brush, looking for that kid's arm.
ever find it?
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reno
Jun 18, 2007, 9:44 PM
Post #30 of 144
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fitzontherocks wrote: reno wrote: richardvg03 wrote: and you've picked up body parts and put them in a bag before?? I'd like to hear this story. I don't know about Majid, but I recall a run we did in Atlanta when I worked on the ambulance. I think he was talking about the climbing realm.
Well, yeah, but RC.com has a history of thread drift. I'm just trying to keep it real. Yo.
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fitzontherocks
Jun 18, 2007, 9:58 PM
Post #31 of 144
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reno wrote: fitzontherocks wrote: reno wrote: richardvg03 wrote: and you've picked up body parts and put them in a bag before?? I'd like to hear this story. I don't know about Majid, but I recall a run we did in Atlanta when I worked on the ambulance. I think he was talking about the climbing realm. Well, yeah, but RC.com has a history of thread drift. I'm just trying to keep it real. Yo.
And you're a moderator? (wink icon here, if I knew how to insert one)
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reno
Jun 18, 2007, 10:01 PM
Post #32 of 144
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richardvg03 wrote: ever find it?
Yep. Pretty nasty looking, too.
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jakedatc
Jun 18, 2007, 10:34 PM
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Jeesh.. you guys gotta keep up with EVERY thread on here ;) at least Reno got it...
the bottle is Majid's miracle in a bottle that will save every dumbass hiker who tries to solo something over their head and gets stuck.. (while carrying their backpack that miraculously contains this miracle bottle o' webbing that will only reach 15m single use or 7.5m doubled up for retrieval)
manktastic
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el_layclimber
Jun 19, 2007, 4:23 AM
Post #34 of 144
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jakedatc wrote: the bottle is Majid's miracle in a bottle that will save every dumbass hiker who tries to solo something over their head and gets stuck.. (while carrying their backpack that miraculously contains this miracle bottle o' webbing that will only reach 15m single use or 7.5m doubled up for retrieval) manktastic
Very Hardy boys/Nancy Drew. Does the bottle also have a lemon bar and a couple of roast beef sandwiches in it?
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jakedatc
Jun 19, 2007, 4:28 AM
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One would only use Roast beef if they had a death wish.. DinoJesus knows you can't do jack shit with roast beef.. now a nice thick ham sammich.. now you're talkin about surviving and going all chuck norris on that 4th class pile of choss
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quiteatingmysteak
Jun 19, 2007, 6:08 AM
Post #36 of 144
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I'll take my camera next time i do anything on Tahquitz.
"Wow! The first ascent of this line was in 1947! Neat! And look, here is his favorite bottle opener that was dropped into the top of the chimney, and now has become 'fixed' by the masses! Treasure of a relic, get me my sling."
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richardvg03
Jun 19, 2007, 2:41 PM
Post #37 of 144
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haha I had a suicide bombers foot land on my HMMWV... me and my buddies plaid catch with it...
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saphius
Jun 19, 2007, 3:51 PM
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richardvg03 wrote: haha I had a suicide bombers foot land on my HMMWV... me and my buddies plaid catch with it...
*blink*
Good to see you had fun over there. Uh... with... dead people.
Anyone else find that disturbing? I hope no non-Americans saw you. They might think you were being cold, heartless, and... sick/odd?
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knieveltech
Jun 19, 2007, 3:53 PM
Post #39 of 144
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quiteatingmysteak wrote: I'll take my camera next time i do anything on Tahquitz. "Wow! The first ascent of this line was in 1947! Neat! And look, here is his favorite bottle opener that was dropped into the top of the chimney, and now has become 'fixed' by the masses! Treasure of a relic, get me my sling."
Haha bottle opener as fixed pro, there's a classic shot. I remember someone mentioned accidentally fixing a hammer in a crack (can't remember what area/route) and I've been hoping someone'll post up a pic. Also I'm surprised Angry's nalgene chockstone hasn't been mentioned by now.
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reg
Jun 19, 2007, 3:59 PM
Post #40 of 144
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el_layclimber wrote: jakedatc wrote: the bottle is Majid's miracle in a bottle that will save every dumbass hiker who tries to solo something over their head and gets stuck.. (while carrying their backpack that miraculously contains this miracle bottle o' webbing that will only reach 15m single use or 7.5m doubled up for retrieval) manktastic Very Hardy boys/Nancy Drew. Does the bottle also have a lemon bar and a couple of roast beef sandwiches in it?
ummm...they should be "ham sammiches"
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reno
Jun 19, 2007, 4:46 PM
Post #41 of 144
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reg wrote: el_layclimber wrote: Very Hardy boys/Nancy Drew. Does the bottle also have a lemon bar and a couple of roast beef sandwiches in it? ummm...they should be "ham sammiches"
As a trad climber, it's good to be well-rounded. Never know when you're going to get stuck on some 12 pitch 5.9 trad route in an Islamic country, for example.
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j_ung
Jun 19, 2007, 6:15 PM
Post #42 of 144
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Sweet! More manchors! I went ahead and moved these over from the other thread.
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caughtinside
Jun 19, 2007, 6:28 PM
Post #43 of 144
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here is a typical thailand set up:
good titanium glue in on the left, rusty mammut ring bolt I slung for laffs, and a stainless steel petzl glue in on the right. The petzl SS glue ins have failed in lead falls in thai limestone, no good way to make sure they're safe.
Another real concern is the anchor rigging. That's a chopped up, bleached out piece of lead line. Probably bomber. But definitely exposed to tremendous amounts of salt air and tropical UV exposure.
And see that arm of the rope heading out right? It was backing itself up... with this!
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granite_grrl
Jun 19, 2007, 6:36 PM
Post #44 of 144
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Took this from Tradrenn's profile:
I believe this is from his trip to Mexico.
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psprings
Jun 19, 2007, 6:36 PM
Post #45 of 144
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I wish I had pictures of the worst bolts ever... but I was on lead and my followers were both too freaked to stop and take pictures.
Honeymoon chimney.
P1. Old 5/8 angle half way out of the sandstone... real fun when the only other pro is a big bro that only gives moderate confidence...
P3. "Bolt ladder" I was planning on leading this at 11a until I actually saw the bolts... it was scary as hell to even A0 on them!!! The single 3/8 metolius bolt, the only non-1/4" button-head, non-protruding angle... well, the hanger spun. Eh, might as well try wiggling the actual bolt, I say. Holy crap, it's actually loose!!! Well, if you have a wrench with you, try to tighten it... not sure if it wasn't torqued down, but a bolt wiggling is scary! Then, to finish of P3, after the "bolt ladder", you do a traverse (~10 ft), followed by a little 5.8 move... totally unprotected except for a old 1/4" expansion bolt that is 3/4 of the way pulled out!!! I would have loved a picture of that one! Thank goodness that one move after that there was a bomber blue tcu placement!!! Nerve-wracking to pull that move after 10 ft of unprotected traverse, though.
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fulton
Jun 19, 2007, 6:48 PM
Post #46 of 144
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Yo Yo Yo,
Check out the bolt-hanger on the right hand-side of this image.
The reason I'm interested is because I had never seen a hanger that looked like that until I moved to Montana, but since then, I have seen dozens of these aluminum looking hangers
AND (now comes my point..) have always wondered, if they are homemade or a commercially produced model. Anyone know one way or another.
I generally see them on climbs that were established in the mid-late 80s (?)
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the_climber
Jun 19, 2007, 9:25 PM
Post #47 of 144
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fulton wrote: The reason I'm interested is because I had never seen a hanger that looked like that until I moved to Montana, but since then, I have seen dozens of these aluminum looking hangers AND (now comes my point..) have always wondered, if they are homemade or a commercially produced model. Anyone know one way or another. I generally see them on climbs that were established in the mid-late 80s (?)
Home made from Angle-Al
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the_climber
Jun 19, 2007, 9:26 PM
Post #48 of 144
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granite_grrl wrote: Took this from Tradrenn's profile: I believe this is from his trip to Mexico.
Um, I guess the "Don't bolt within 6 inches of a crack" was lost in the translation, eh.
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billcoe_
Jun 20, 2007, 4:16 AM
Post #49 of 144
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fulton wrote: Yo Yo Yo, Check out the bolt-hanger on the right hand-side of this image. [image]http://www.cascadeclimbers.com/plab/data/500/6299Caldwell_Anchor.JPG[/image] The reason I'm interested is because I had never seen a hanger that looked like that until I moved to Montana, but since then, I have seen dozens of these aluminum looking hangers AND (now comes my point..) have always wondered, if they are homemade or a commercially produced model. Anyone know one way or another. I generally see them on climbs that were established in the mid-late 80s (?)
Dean Caldwell of Wall of the Early Morning Light on El Cap fame (and possibly Kim Schmitz) put that in at Beacon Rock in Washington state. Probably in the 70's. It was still in use (abiet rarely as the webbing indicates) until 2006 when Joseph Healy did some extensive anchor replacement work out there (like damn near everyone, and I think there were some worse than this). These typically are homeade hangers easily made from cutting and drilling chanel stock.
This is his pic and he can describe it better than me, however, as I understand it, these bolts are there no more. He did leave some in at various places for historical value, these may have been left, I'm not positive about that, but if they were left, they would not have been part of a working anchor.
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colotopian
Jun 20, 2007, 4:22 AM
Post #50 of 144
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This one was a little rusty...
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