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goodman
Jul 10, 2007, 2:27 PM
Post #26 of 39
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Registered: Mar 16, 2003
Posts: 31
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D -
PLease let me.. I need some new draws!
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j_ung
Jul 10, 2007, 2:30 PM
Post #27 of 39
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
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Hey, Pat, I got your message. I'm definitely into getting some river time with you cats. And yes! That's our key!
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dbrayack
Jul 10, 2007, 2:45 PM
Post #29 of 39
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 1260
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We should have a contest..who can stick clip their way up a route the fastest...time it, give away prizes (like fixed gear)
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andrewd
Jul 10, 2007, 3:58 PM
Post #30 of 39
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Registered: Apr 3, 2006
Posts: 168
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knieveltech wrote: curator wrote: I think it's obvious at this point that whoever is responsible for these horrible "fixed draws" is also the same guy that chops bolts at junkyard. He's probably the same guy that glued a line of bolt hangers (complete with fake studs and nuts) up easily flakey at bridge buttress. Who is this guy? It must be Jim Taylor. He gets blamed for everything else around here, why not this too. I don't know about you guys but I'm not going climbing in the gorge until all this is resolved. And hey Cinnamon Johnson, if that's even you're real name. I agree with Limeydave. If you can get those draws down North Carolina style "from the ground up" then you can have 'em.  Someone glued a line of fake hangers?? *boggle* Hopefully there where no injuries...
TYeah I was wondering about the glued bolts thing too?!? Isn't that a trad route anyway?
-Andrew
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freeforsum
Jul 10, 2007, 7:10 PM
Post #31 of 39
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Registered: Aug 16, 2005
Posts: 56
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Blah…blah…blah…..man…..listen to all you bitch about this and that…..I see it as quite simple…..If you leave your gear hanging on a public climbing crag…..its called booty…..If you don’t want it to be booty…..take it with you. So…..If you want to take it….take it…..if you don’t want to….don’t. But the person leaving it there really has no room to complain about gear being taken when they consciously left it at the crag.
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neoamhas
Jul 11, 2007, 2:48 PM
Post #32 of 39
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Registered: May 14, 2004
Posts: 38
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Mr. Johnson,
as a local GOB(Good Ole Boy) drunk climber with a disdain for authority of any kind, I believe we REALLY should SERIOUSLY take care of this ourselves. Maybe we can hide out in the rhodos and wait for said climber to show up, hoping to redpoint his proj, then when he wanders off in search of the next home for his fixed draws we can pilfer his pack for gear. if you leave your stuff unattended at the crag it is fair game,.. right. that ought to teach this "climber" what the NRG is all about. Self-Important Irrational Nazi Climbing Police. gone are the days of trust and understanding in the climbing community and we need to remind this insolent bastard of that fact. We are now a community of internet post'ers having Brokeback ethical debates about issues that could be solved over beer and a couple of good natured slaps to the head. forgive me if I seem agitated, but it's 10 am, raining at the New and I haven't started pounding beer bombs yet.
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curator
Jul 11, 2007, 2:50 PM
Post #33 of 39
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Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 91
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Hey Freeforsum, You're from Oregon. Dude, there is soooo much booty hanging off of this secret crag out there that the locals call "Smith Rock". You should go get it all down. Then you'd have enough rack to go 5.8 trad climbing, get some sweet hand jams, be a real soul climber. But if I see you out here taking draws off the cliff at the New I'm going to pummel you with my stick clip. Renegade sport climber justice, you know what I'm saying. And yes, someone glued a line of bolts up easily flakey. Yes, it is a trad route. They looked exactly real from the outside and were strong enough to hold a draw with the rope passing through it but not strong enough to hold body weight. No one was hurt. But it does beg the question. How many fixed draws at the new are attached to fake, glued on, bolt hangers? And how many of those baked in the sun, UV damaged, fixed draws will break before the epoxy holding the bolt hanger to the rock? It seems like toproping is the only safe thing to do these days and even then...not from the two bolt fixed anchors at the top. I'll be equalizing three bomber trees for my topropes from now on.
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j_ung
Jul 11, 2007, 2:59 PM
Post #34 of 39
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
Posts: 18690
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I hope the NPS catches whoever did that. Somebody is looking at jail time.
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starkcontrast
Jul 12, 2007, 2:01 PM
Post #36 of 39
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Registered: Oct 20, 2005
Posts: 149
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dbrayack wrote: If its seems to be an access issue, I can go, stick clip my way up it today and grab em...
this entire thread is funny as hell, but this comment made coffee come out of my nose this morning. great stuff.
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dbrayack
Jul 12, 2007, 2:05 PM
Post #37 of 39
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Registered: Dec 16, 2002
Posts: 1260
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starkcontrast wrote: dbrayack wrote: If its seems to be an access issue, I can go, stick clip my way up it today and grab em... this entire thread is funny as hell, but this comment made coffee come out of my nose this morning. great stuff.
I bet that hurt 
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lena_chita
Moderator
Jul 12, 2007, 6:03 PM
Post #38 of 39
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Registered: Jun 27, 2006
Posts: 6087
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curator wrote: And yes, someone glued a line of bolts up easily flakey. Yes, it is a trad route. They looked exactly real from the outside and were strong enough to hold a draw with the rope passing through it but not strong enough to hold body weight. No one was hurt.
Wow. So, are the fake bolt "decorations" removed by now, or are they still there, sort-of "all the locals know that it is fake, let some visiting gumby get on it"?
I can't believe a CLIMBER would do something like that. No matter how bitter, or angry, or whatever. This seems like a criminal act to me...
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curator
Jul 12, 2007, 11:49 PM
Post #39 of 39
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Registered: Sep 29, 2005
Posts: 91
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yes Lena, the bolts are gone and it's a good thing cause I'm pretty sure that clips not gonna hold.
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