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8flood8
Jul 11, 2007, 4:26 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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Ok - so here is my current rack (only protection is included)
00 TCU, Metolius
0 TCU, Metolius
1 TCU, Metolius
2 TCU, Metolius
2 TCU, Metolius
3 TCU, Metolius
3 TCU, Metolius
4 TCU, Metolius
1 Power Cam, Metolius
10 Power Cam, Metolius 2
5 Ultralight Power Cam, Metolius
6 Ultralight Power Cam, Metolius
7 Ultralight Power Cam, Metolius
8 Ultralight Power Cam, Metolius
.75 Camalot, Black Diamond
1 Camalot, Black Diamond
2 Camalot, Black Diamond
2 Camalot, Black Diamond
3 Camalot Black Diamond
4 Camalot (new), Black Diamond
6 Camalot Black Diamond
2.5 Technical Friend, Wild Country
1 set of hexcentrics with doubles in the larger size
2 sets of nuts
i think i'm getting close to done, (we're talking free climbing here)
what else would you include besides getting double's or triple's.
should i get into more passive gear? tri-cams?
(This post was edited by 8flood8 on Jul 12, 2007, 5:35 AM)
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coastal_climber
Jul 11, 2007, 4:56 PM
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Depends on where you are climbing. Maybe talk to those who climb near you?
>Cam
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8flood8
Jul 11, 2007, 5:13 PM
Post #3 of 20
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i'm looking for a rack that i can travel internationally with
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shimanilami
Jul 11, 2007, 5:45 PM
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Registered: Jul 24, 2006
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8flood8 wrote: i'm looking for a rack that i can travel internationally with
I haven't travelled with a huge rack for a few years, but I'm not sure what you're worried about. The only problems I've run into recently are travelling with fuel bottles, firearms or bear spray. If you need to bring this stuff along, you may want to ship it ahead of you via Fed-Ex (or the like).
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8flood8
Jul 11, 2007, 5:55 PM
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i'd rather pay the $25 to check my gear along with me.
what i'm worried about is having gear to climb anywhere. i feel i'm close to being "done" buying gear other than specialty pieces. That is the point of asking other's what they feel i'm missing, or rather, they would be missing from my rack.
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billcoe_
Jul 11, 2007, 7:03 PM
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I coun't see your rack by clicking on the link. All i got was the racksimulator page which you can sign up with.
Hmmm
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vegastradguy
Jul 12, 2007, 12:07 AM
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a good all around rack, imho, would be:
1.5 set of nuts
single set of cams to 4"
doubles in the sizes you suck at and are bigger than your biggest stopper.
for me, this means singles to 4", doubles in purple and green camalot, and about 12 nuts (i like to carry about 6 regular stoppers and 6 HB offsets).
this will do you by and large for the vast majority of climbs within your range. there are obvious exceptions- the creek being the biggest.
also, if you really enjoy a certain size, you may consider doubling up on those sizes as well, since you're more likely to want to climb those types of cracks.
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LostinMaine
Jul 12, 2007, 2:41 PM
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vegastradguy wrote: 1.5 set of nuts single set of cams to 4" doubles in the sizes you suck at and are bigger than your biggest stopper. for me, this means singles to 4", doubles in purple and green camalot, and about 12 nuts (i like to carry about 6 regular stoppers and 6 HB offsets).
This is essentially the rack I climb on. I highly recommend the three smallest Tricams racked as well (pink, red, brown). I can't remember a pitch where I haven't placed one of them....
Too many cams makes for a very heavy and bulky rack for the vast majority of the routes I've been on. Passive pro works (better?) in many of the situations where I see people plugging cams. On longer routes, I'll carry a double set of nuts (BDs and Huecos).
(This post was edited by LostinMaine on Jul 12, 2007, 2:43 PM)
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dbrayack
Jul 12, 2007, 2:50 PM
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Are you a girl? Will you marry me and we can share gear?
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cracklover
Jul 12, 2007, 2:51 PM
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Registered: Nov 14, 2002
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Uh, your rack sucks. Seriously. Sell half those cams (good god, #6 BD Camalot - you buy that on a dare or what?), and sell most of the hexes. Christ, you want to lug around 22 cams and 15 hexes? Including doubles in the large hexes?!!! If, and only if, you get rid of most of that junk, (or leave it in a bin until you take up aid climbing) - then I'd suggest you could pick up a couple of small tricams. Oh hell, I probably shouldn't have said this. Now you'll buy like eight monster tricams.
I really hope this is a troll. Especially this part:
In reply to: i think i'm getting close to done, (we're talking free climbing here) what else would you include besides getting double's or triple's.
What else? How about the kitchen sink?
GO
(This post was edited by cracklover on Jul 12, 2007, 2:55 PM)
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robbovius
Jul 12, 2007, 2:56 PM
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cracklover wrote: Uh, your rack sucks. Seriously. Sell half those cams (good god, #6 BD Camalot - you buy that on a dare or what?), and sell most of the hexes. Christ, you want to lug around 22 cams and 15 hexes? Including doubles in the large hexes?!!! If, and only if, you get rid of most of that junk, (or leave it in a bin until you take up aid climbing) - then I'd suggest you could pick up a couple of small tricams. Oh hell, I probably shouldn't have said this. Now you'll buy like eight monster tricams. I really hope this is a troll. Especially this part: In reply to: i think i'm getting close to done, (we're talking free climbing here) what else would you include besides getting double's or triple's. What else? How about the kitchen sink? GO
Hey, I only recently stopped racking the Hibachi. chillax homedawg. ;-)
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summerprophet
Jul 12, 2007, 2:59 PM
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I think the overwhelming feel here, is no-one would want to travel internationally with your rack.
If you are travelling alone, learn to climb on others racks. Do you really want to be dragging around a number 6 BD with you everywhere.
That being said there seems to be a number of posts for people who want to have a rack that will do everything. Racks are not a single item, they are a grouping of protection required for a specific area or climb. If there is a way to bypass an offwidth, them damn it there is no way I am going to drag big gear up with me.
If I was traveling internationally, and needed a rack, I would take a set and a half to two sets of nuts and five cams from fingers to hands. This will cover about 70% of the climbing I enjoy. If it was mountains rather that pure rock, I would ditch the cams and take the three largest hexes.
To quote Mr. Eric Clapton:
"Traveling light is the only way to fly."
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cracklover
Jul 12, 2007, 3:16 PM
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robbovius wrote: Hey, I only recently stopped racking the Hibachi. chillax homedawg. ;-)
Yeah, Rob, but at least being able to make a cheeseburger on the GT ledge is useful! You've never carried 22 cams and 15 hexes, have you? I mean, let's think this through.
Two sets of nuts = 20 pieces.
15 hexes.
22 cams.
-------------
Total: 57 pieces.
What could you *possibly* use in a 150 foot pitch?
3 in each anchor = 6.
gear every 7 feet = 16 pieces.
--------------------------
Total: 22 pieces.
One set of cams (let's say 10 cams - give you a few doubles), a set and a half of nuts (15), a few hexes, and 3 tricams = 33 pieces.
That's plenty!
GO
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j_ung
Jul 12, 2007, 3:30 PM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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You're done, dood.
(This post was edited by j_ung on Jul 12, 2007, 3:30 PM)
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robbovius
Jul 12, 2007, 4:35 PM
Post #16 of 20
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cracklover wrote: robbovius wrote: Hey, I only recently stopped racking the Hibachi. chillax homedawg. ;-) Yeah, Rob, but at least being able to make a cheeseburger on the GT ledge is useful! You've never carried 22 cams and 15 hexes, have you? I mean, let's think this through. Two sets of nuts = 20 pieces. 15 hexes. 22 cams. ------------- Total: 57 pieces. What could you *possibly* use in a 150 foot pitch? 3 in each anchor = 6. gear every 7 feet = 16 pieces. -------------------------- Total: 22 pieces. One set of cams (let's say 10 cams - give you a few doubles), a set and a half of nuts (15), a few hexes, and 3 tricams = 33 pieces. That's plenty! GO
for real. even I thought the OP had quite enough for everywhere, and that his rack was done a while ago.
Cheeseburgers on the GT ledge... mmmmmmmmmm!
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dynosore
Jul 12, 2007, 5:57 PM
Post #18 of 20
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Registered: Jul 29, 2004
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If I carried that much weight in gear I'd only be able to do 4th class scrambing at best....
how often do you use those double sets of large hexes ahahhaahaha
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LostinMaine
Jul 12, 2007, 6:34 PM
Post #19 of 20
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Registered: May 8, 2007
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I'm scared to ask how many draws, lockers and spare 'biners you bring up with you...
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8flood8
Jul 13, 2007, 1:50 PM
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OK OK !! Settle down!!
i Don't carry all of that up with me. This is what i took up a 75' 5.8 that i climbed yesterday. i carried up camalot #1 (2), #2, #3, #4, metolius #7, 8 and 10 and #10 and 11 hex -- plus i carried an alpine equalizer 5 long draws 5 extendable draws and 3 long slings over my neck and shoulders.
- i left my (climbing) nuts the rest of my hexes and the rest of my cams on the ground.
Now then i feel i have gotten some great responses for this post and i appreciate ALL the responses!
BTW that #6 is still in the mail i don't have it yet and we needed it yesterday.
we were thinking we were getting on a 5.6 but at the end of the day i'd call it 10+ or 11
chimney to overhanging flaring offwidth (i kept telling my bro --DUDE the guidebook says go up the ramp for 5.6, but he wanted to climb into that offwidth for some reason....
#4 was the last placement with 15' of hulking laybacking. My bro took a 10 footer onto the #4 and i refused to let him down, so he got back on and styled it.
i came up to clean behind him and the whole time i was like OMFGWTF is this??? it was great craziness, but i wish that #6 had arrived 2 days ago!
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