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dr_feelgood
Jul 9, 2007, 9:19 PM
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
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So I broke my leg because i didn't have one of these. Right now i am considering the BD Raven Pro, but am more than open to suggestions. What do you think... Oh and which term do you prefer. Ice Axe(not Ice tool), Piolet, mountaineering axe, or Thingamabob.
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Crimsonghost
Jul 9, 2007, 10:01 PM
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Registered: May 30, 2007
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The Raven is a nice axe, I've got the regular version (not the Pro) and it's pretty good for mountaineering - nice weight, really comfortable grip shape on the head and a good adze and pick. I thought the Pro was a bit lightweight, so not so good for heavy use - I imagine it would be great for ski mountaineering though. I also looked at the Grivel Airtech but the Raven won out on price.
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unreleasedenergy
Jul 9, 2007, 11:21 PM
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Registered: Mar 26, 2006
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BD venom. its the shit. even the classical pick climbs ice really well. has a smooth path for a bootaxe. heavier than some of the plunge/self arrest only offerings out there, but its climbing ability on the steep stuff makes up for it in my mind.
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scottb
Jul 9, 2007, 11:45 PM
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I own and like the Raven (regular, not pro). Lots of shops and guide services use it for rentals and they hold up really well. I say "ice axe". Dr. Feelgood: how'd you break your leg?
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dr_feelgood
Jul 9, 2007, 11:53 PM
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scottb wrote: I own and like the Raven (regular, not pro). Lots of shops and guide services use it for rentals and they hold up really well. I say "ice axe". Dr. Feelgood: how'd you break your leg? See the 2nd to last post in 'doc's roadtrip thread' in the TR section. I slipped on long's peak in CO...
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stymingersfink
Jul 10, 2007, 12:32 AM
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if you've got the coin, the raven pro isn't a bad choice, just be sure you size it properly. when holding the top of the head in your fist, arm relaxed, with the handle hanging down, the bottom of the handle point should hang right about your ankle bone. you can size slightly shorter if you are planning on using it mostly on steep stuff where you might be plunging it into the snow above you, or slightly longer if you are planning for more glacial travel snow-slog type stuff where you will be using it as a cane.
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salamanizer
Jul 10, 2007, 12:51 AM
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I have the Raven Pro. For non technical general mountaineering, it's the shit cuz it's light. However, It's weight comes at a price. For one, the adz is too small to really accomplish much. Try digging a ledge for a tent. By the time you're done, it'll be time to start moving again. Another thing is it's pick is small. If you start sliding on the steep stuff, you really gotta bury that thing deep for any real stopping power. My last complaint is that the head width is too small. The pressure form a thin pick on your palm is to be expected, but when I rap my hand around it, it feels like it's not even there. When I put weight on it sideways, it tends to buckle in because it's like holding onto a piece of wire..... if that makes any sense. Personally I prefer something a little beefier. The BD Venom is cool, a little more versatile but still has some of the same problems. I still like the old purple BD axe's. I like it to feel like I have an axe in my hand, not a hatchet.
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ryanb
Jul 10, 2007, 1:43 AM
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stymingersfink wrote: if you've got the coin, the raven pro isn't a bad choice, just be sure you size it properly. when holding the top of the head in your fist, arm relaxed, with the handle hanging down, the bottom of the handle point should hang right about your ankle bone. you can size slightly shorter if you are planning on using it mostly on steep stuff where you might be plunging it into the snow above you, or slightly longer if you are planning for more glacial travel snow-slog type stuff where you will be using it as a cane. I have an ice axe (beat up old cassin flash) that fits by these standards. Lately i have been wishing it was shorter so it was easier to carry up rock routes where a self arrest and glisade tool might be nice on the approach or decent.
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studclimber
Jul 11, 2007, 12:04 AM
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Registered: Apr 15, 2007
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I use the Petzl Snowwalker. It's a lot like the Raven, except the adze is a bit curved, making a really nice place for your hand. It's a bit more money, but its just the right weight, and you can't go wrong with petzl.
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SawtoothClimber
Jul 11, 2007, 1:04 AM
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Registered: Apr 17, 2007
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Crimsonghost wrote: The Raven is a nice axe, I've got the regular version (not the Pro). . . Ditto. I've had mine for a few years and it's been great on both early season alpine routes and ski mountaineering trips. I'm just over 6' and went with the 70cm.
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the_climber
Jul 13, 2007, 6:18 PM
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
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I'm still using my old Stubai! Good, but a little heavy, mind you if you ever need to chop steps of a platform then that extra weight is nice. I'm looking to upgrade to the Grivel Air Tech Evo as I thoughly enjoyed it when on loan from a friend for part of a climb. He however disliked my old Stubai with an outright distain for the weight, the Stubia will out live us all!
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dr_feelgood
Jul 13, 2007, 6:56 PM
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Registered: Apr 6, 2004
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the_climber wrote: I'm still using my old Stubai! Good, but a little heavy, mind you if you ever need to chop steps of a platform then that extra weight is nice. I'm looking to upgrade to the Grivel Air Tech Evo as I thoughly enjoyed it when on loan from a friend for part of a climb. He however disliked my old Stubai with an outright distain for the weight , the Stubia will out live us all! that thing is sexy... We may have a winner... Right now it is a toss up between the grivel and the BD, with grivel edging it out.
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Jblake
Jul 15, 2007, 3:51 PM
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Registered: Dec 13, 2006
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Muy sexy. I haven't used the grivel but my partner seems to like his. Its gonna perform better on steep snow and will work well with a third tool (actually second tool if you didn't already know that) when you get onto steep hard snow. That said I have the raven and have climbed 65-70% snow with it and it performed just dandy. When I know I need something more agressive I just carry technical axes and suck up the weight.
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kane_schutzman
Jul 15, 2007, 6:32 PM
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Registered: May 14, 2005
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Check out the Camp ALPAX, this is what I have been using and damn do I love it. Just like the EVO pictured above this axe is T Rated. This is a big plus for me because on technical climbs I am carrying the Alpax and a viper.
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the_climber
Jul 16, 2007, 5:02 PM
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
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Grivel also makes a hammer version of the Evo! I belive Steve House used a combination of a hammer and axe Evo with two Alp wings as the team's tools for his new route up the Rupal Face a couple years back. These things are light, but all the weight is where it should be, and that is what counts. Amazing tools!
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furrymurry
Jul 17, 2007, 5:04 PM
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Registered: Sep 6, 2004
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I have a raven pro and it's served me well on general mountaineering. However, I've found I don't use it much anymore because most climbs I do are more technical. I also have (aside from my ice tools - quarks) a simond 50cm classic curve that has a steel head, whereas the raven pro is aluminum. The steel is nice and reassuring when you might be needing to swing it every once in a while. If I was buying an axe right now I think I'd get a Grivel Evo, preferably with one of those neat sliding trigger thingies.
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wb3
Jul 17, 2007, 5:29 PM
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Registered: Mar 22, 2006
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I have a Petzl CosmiTec. Similar to the axe pictured in that it also has a bent shaft. The shaft does aid in technical climbing but I found last summer in the Alps that it is not as stable when you use it to build a T-slot anchor. If you need to do this, say, to effect a crevasse rescue, there is an increased risk of the axe rotating in the slot and the anchor failing.
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rhyang
Jul 17, 2007, 7:07 PM
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Registered: Nov 10, 2004
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The raven pro actually has a stainless steel head and spike. That said, I sold my raven pro and got an air tech racing instead - chromoly steel head which performs decently on ice and the newest model has a steel spike, with a slight bend in the shaft. The air tech evo's head is similar, but the pick is slightly thicker (t-rated, not b-rated) and the teeth are not beveled. In either case I prefer the grivel adze shape to the raven pro.
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the_climber
Jul 17, 2007, 7:28 PM
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
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BD is nice for some stuff, but Grivel is always my preference over BD. Strongest picks on the market those Grivels are. Damn tough gear!
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furrymurry
Jul 17, 2007, 7:42 PM
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Registered: Sep 6, 2004
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Oops, my bad, thanks for pointing that out. Nonetheless, the RavenPro head seems a whole lot softer than others and not as adept at ice placements etc. due to its more roundly shaped pick.
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the_climber
Jul 17, 2007, 8:42 PM
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Registered: Oct 9, 2003
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Stainless Steel is by far better when rust is concerned, but there is no replacement for a forged steel head on an Ice axe. IMO Hence my Bias to Grivel... that and their axes are superior.... and they're cool.... their helmets fit better.... and they have cool stickers... their ice screws are second to non... ....Lunch may have been both "rum"y and "Coke"y with a bit of Lime, but Grivel Axes still ROCK!
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