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grantpro
Jul 23, 2007, 10:06 PM
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I need a good auto-locking belay. What do you think? Petzl grigri or Trango cinch....or any other.
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climb_plastic
Jul 23, 2007, 11:44 PM
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Yeah, I think the GriGri and Cinch are good auto-locking belays.
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billcoe_
Jul 24, 2007, 1:26 AM
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My partner - Ujahn has a Gri Gri.
I have a Cinch and a Sum. My buddy Joseph has a Eddy, and he likes it, but it's damn expensive.
Get a Cinch for an inexpensive quality assisted locking belay device.
Not suppose to call them "Auto Locking".
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jakedatc
Jul 24, 2007, 1:55 AM
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I agree with Billcoe.. Cinch is smaller, lighter, less expensive, works with more rope sizes..
havent used the eddy but damn.. over 100 bucks.. i think not
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overlord
Jul 24, 2007, 7:46 AM
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eddy sucks. its heavy and the 'safety features' are really annoying. but thats just my opinion.
i havent used the cinch yet, but i use grigri regullary and i can only reccomend it.
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Go-Devil
Jul 24, 2007, 11:04 AM
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beware what you wish for! there is no such things as AUTO-locking, they still require a skilled belayer!
when i climb with a beginner, i wouldnt trust them with my grigri! i give em an atc, that way they stay focused. If the grigri or cinch or eddy or whatever locks, its a great device, but if your belayer isnt belaying properly and the thing wont lock, you can make a prayer cause the rope will feed through the device just as fast as through an atc!
now on topic! i'd go for the grigri, i've used the eddy and the cinch too, but i prefer the grigri, i dont realy know why, but it feels trusty....
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coastal_climber
Jul 24, 2007, 5:15 PM
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gri gri
>Cam
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shimanilami
Jul 24, 2007, 5:41 PM
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Gri-Gri. Tried and true.
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climb_plastic
Jul 24, 2007, 7:10 PM
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Go-Devil wrote: beware what you wish for! there is no such things as AUTO-locking, they still require a skilled belayer!when i climb with a beginner, i wouldnt trust them with my grigri! i give em an atc, that way they stay focused...but if your belayer isnt belaying properly and the thing wont lock, you can make a prayer cause the rope will feed through the device just as fast as through an atc!
I disagree with that. If you give a beginner a grigri he'd better be focused. You shouldn't have to teach them to be focused. With a grigri I learned to focus on the climber and his movements more because you have to be ready to feed rope out AS he reaches for the rope to clip or you'll short rope him when he pulls on the rope.
When you teach a beginner he isn't going to be a skilled belayer right away. Developing good belaying skills takes practice...and if your belayer isn't belaying properly I wouldn't climb with him with an atc because you have no prayer at all.
But that's not what a grigri is for...it's a backup...a backup to your belayer just like you backup an anchor no matter how good you think it is. It's not autolocking but a lot of times it locks before you apply braking force and even locks when the climber pulls on the rope when you feed too late....it's better than nothing.
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Go-Devil
Jul 25, 2007, 9:00 AM
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i agree with you, but accidents with the grigri happen too often, many people think its auto-locking and they don't need to belay like with an atc.... thts when it gets dangerous...
but indeed, if you teach your belayer from the beginning tht a grigri works just as an atc, the grigri is safer becuz in most cases it IS auto-locking, just not in all cases....
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climb_plastic
Jul 25, 2007, 4:31 PM
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They are different devices. You don't belay with a grigri like an atc. More importantly you don't belay with an atc like you do with a grigri. Safe grigri techniques are not safe atc techniques. Don't let anyone tell you that they're the same or the next time you use an atc after getting used to belaying with grigri then you're going to drop someone.
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steady_climbing
Jul 25, 2007, 5:45 PM
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grantpro wrote: I need a good auto-locking belay. What do you think? Petzl grigri or Trango cinch....or any other.
Cinch all the way. They are a charm to use and also quite small.
(This post was edited by steady_climbing on Jul 25, 2007, 5:46 PM)
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lena_chita
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Jul 25, 2007, 5:59 PM
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grantpro wrote: I need a good auto-locking belay. What do you think? Petzl grigri or Trango cinch....or any other.
Have you used either one of them? Do you have friends that use one or the other, so you could try it before you buy?
I have never used Cinch. Have used Gri-gri and Eddy, Gri-gri more extensively. There were some things I liked better about Eddie, and some things I found annoying-- like that button you have to press to open it -- but IMO it comes down to preference.
I would throw this one in: consider how you are going to be using it.
For example, do you foresee somewhat frequent situations where you hand your belay device to your partner to use? It is more likely that a random partner will know how to use a Gri-gri than any other device just because the Gri-gris are so much more widespread that either Cinch or Eddy.
What ropes are you going to be using it with (again, consider not just your current rope, but your partner's ropes and what you are likely to buy in the next couple years)? Gri-gri technically isn't supposed to be used with ropes under 10mm (though I have used it with 9.8mm just fine) Both Cinch and Eddy are recommended for smaller-diameter ropes-- and there is something to be said for following manufacturer's recommendations, LOL.
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billcoe_
Jul 25, 2007, 7:30 PM
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I think Joseph uses it for roped soloing. If you are planning on either that or going out with Noobs, I'd seriously consider an Eddy.
available for the next 9 hours right here: http://www.outdoordaily.com/
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grantpro
Jul 25, 2007, 8:35 PM
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Thank you all for the info. To answer some of your questions I have worked with the grigri before and know it well. I am just looking for other options. I will be using the belay for top rope, sport, trad, and belaying up seconds on multi-pitch. My rope right now is 10.2 and i am looking at getting petzl nomad 9.8.
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Go-Devil
Jul 26, 2007, 9:38 AM
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@climb plastic you know what i mean, i've had to explain tons of people tht they NEED TO KEEP THEIR BELAY HAND GRIPPED ONTO THE FREE EN OF THE ROPE JUST LIKE WITH ATC's
I just try to explain to you tht grigris can give a false sense of security when belaying and when climbing, when you hand a grigri to a beginner who has never seen a grigri, you must tell him to complete function of it, not just its so called "auto-locking", tell em and keep telling them they need to keep their belay hand on the rope !
(i climb alot with youngsters, and they keep saving money to buy their own grigri, but when they have it and they start using it, you better keep an eye on them because on the first three belays they, i guarantee you, will lose the belay hand to give out rope or to take rope or whatever...-this is where the accidents happen...)
and as a good climber you should know accidents happen when you feel secure, because when youre insecure you start to think twice about what you do...
in short, when belaying with an atc i allways teach my pupils NEVER to let go of the free end, and to allways keep the free end downwards, now i dont know what you think are safe grigri techniques, but doing this on a grigri is safe as well...
off the record, i have a grigri and i only use it to tighten my slackline, i prefer atc's,
nonetheless its a great thing !
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climbinwv
Jul 26, 2007, 12:29 PM
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Ohhh NOOOOO...not another belay device thread!!!! Well as always I will put my vote in for the Cinch. It works great, easy to learn, tons of info on Trango's website, and Malcolm Daly is cool. It all depends on what you are gonna be using it for. It's great for toproping and sport. If you are gonna be doin any route setting maybe go with a grigri. REMEMBER: NOT an "Autolocker"...belayer must pay attention!!!
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zeth01
Jul 26, 2007, 12:34 PM
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What about the ex[ensive Edelrid Eddy belay device. handles smaller diameter ropes too.
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climb_plastic
Jul 26, 2007, 6:00 PM
Post #20 of 20
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Go-Devil wrote: I just try to explain to you tht grigris can give a false sense of security when belaying and when climbing, when you hand a grigri to a beginner who has never seen a grigri, you must tell him to complete function of it, not just its so called "auto-locking", tell em and keep telling them they need to keep their belay hand on the rope ! (i climb alot with youngsters, and they keep saving money to buy their own grigri, but when they have it and they start using it, you better keep an eye on them because on the first three belays they, i guarantee you, will lose the belay hand to give out rope or to take rope or whatever...-this is where the accidents happen...) and as a good climber you should know accidents happen when you feel secure, because when youre insecure you start to think twice about what you do... in short, when belaying with an atc i allways teach my pupils NEVER to let go of the free end, and to allways keep the free end downwards, now i dont know what you think are safe grigri techniques, but doing this on a grigri is safe as well...
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