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joeforte
Aug 1, 2007, 12:49 PM
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Registered: May 9, 2005
Posts: 1093
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Hey, I was just looking for some info on climbing the pinnacle ridge on Mount Washington. How big of a rack should I take? Will I need a #3? I'd rather leave it behind. We are going to start at pinkham notch and hike huntington ravine trail, climb the ridge, then descend lions head. I plan on taking 2, 10.5 mm ropes... wish I had doubles!
Any advice is welcome
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qulith
Aug 1, 2007, 1:04 PM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2005
Posts: 106
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I just did this a couple weeks ago, amazing climb.
I placed a number 3 once, but it wasn't needed. On the climb I rarely placed anything larger than a .75. The climb ate up nuts and tricams.
The rack I brought up was
-TCUs blue-red.
-C4s .75 - 3 (double in 1)
- Tricams - double pink, double red, single brown and blue
- Single set of nuts.
- A couple screamers for the pins.
I always had lots of spare gear at the belay ledges. If I did it again I would have brought a double set of nuts and would have left the double #1 and the #3.
You also won't need the second rope unless you are climbing as a party of 3 since it is a hike off.
Let me know if you have any more questions.
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joeforte
Aug 1, 2007, 5:50 PM
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Registered: May 9, 2005
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I was considering the second rope in case we needed to retreat in an emergency... Does this seem necessary?
We will have shells and warm clothes in case of weather. How high is it? How far would you have to rappel?
BTW, I lead 5.10 trad and she leads 5.8, so we could likely climb our way out of most situations.
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qulith
Aug 2, 2007, 2:17 AM
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Registered: Feb 2, 2005
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If you need to retreat at any point in time you should be able to traverse left to 4th class and summit or bail that way. If you want to bail into the gully on the right a single rap would get you there.
Warm clothes are a good idea for when you reach the top. The hike off can get windy and cold. I brought a wind breaker and hat and wore both for the beginning of the decent.
If you are a solid 8 or 10 trad leader you are not going to have any issues with the climb. The majority of the climbing is low 5th class with a couple 5.6 or 5.7 moves thrown in. The only part that has any consistent 5.6-7is moves would be in the Allis chimney.
Many of the pitches can be linked as well, but watch out linking pitch 6 and 7 (of the Chauvin guide http://www.chauvinguides.com/pinnacleguide.htm). The guides says that the pitches are 100 and 75 feet, but when I linked them together I ran out of rope before the belay and had to simulclimb the last bit.
Have fun!
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joeforte
Aug 3, 2007, 5:10 PM
Post #5 of 5
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Registered: May 9, 2005
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Thanks for the info and the link. The link does not work for me however, is anyone else having this problem?
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