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anykineclimb


Jul 9, 2007, 4:04 PM
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System tiles
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I'm considering getting Revolution's System tiles for my wall. They look a lot like the old Pusher tiles (imagine that!) I know a couple companies, you can order specific holds instead of sets so you can get identical holds and some even have system hold sets. Anyone use them or recommend other system tiles or holds?


rudolphluciani


Aug 27, 2007, 5:02 PM
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Re: [anykineclimb] System tiles [In reply to]
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we've got the revolution tiles at our gym and i don't like them at all. they are really rough and inconsistantly shaped. shop around


8flood8


Aug 27, 2007, 5:32 PM
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Re: [anykineclimb] System tiles [In reply to]
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are you in favor of training only specific grips to your hands (even if they are identical?)

if so, i think your best bet would be a series of pinches and slopes and nothing more than that, unless you get differing sizes of crimps too... but as far as i am concerned, training openhand grip strengthens all muscles involved.


sidepull


Aug 27, 2007, 5:50 PM
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Re: [8flood8] System tiles [In reply to]
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8flood8 wrote:
are you in favor of training only specific grips to your hands (even if they are identical?)

if so, i think your best bet would be a series of pinches and slopes and nothing more than that, unless you get differing sizes of crimps too... but as far as i am concerned, training openhand grip strengthens all muscles involved.

although it is a very popular belief that open-handed strength transfers across all hand positions, it has been proven to be false. please read Gresham, or the Self Coached Climber, or Performance Rockclimbing, or even (gasp!) Horst and you'll note that all prescribe training each grip position. Specificity, my friend. Specificity.

Note: If you want more conclusive evidence some where here there's a thread that sites a scientific study to this point. That said, if you get strong enough so that you can open hand everything and rarely crimp then I guess it doesn't make a difference what the kiniesological reality is because you're choosing to use a limited range of motion.


8flood8


Aug 27, 2007, 7:06 PM
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Re: [sidepull] System tiles [In reply to]
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Hey that is the beauty of the internet!

thank you for updating my reality!

specificity huh? so what is the prescribed method of training?

how many specific holds do you have to train?

should i be going out to my project with plaster of paris to figure out how to hit those moves i can't hold onto???


anykineclimb


Aug 28, 2007, 5:27 PM
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Re: [8flood8] System tiles [In reply to]
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I ended up picking up 8 tiles on eBay for pretty cheap. I'll be supplementing them with "regular" holds and some more tiles.


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