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estwing
Oct 8, 2002, 5:44 PM
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Hi, I am new to trad climbing and after playing around with gear a few times and having "bomber" placements pull under body weight I have decided a course would be in order if I care to live (and I do).
What should be covered in this course. My partners and I already are competent sport leaders, so belaying shouldn't be an issue.
So, gear placement, anchors, some rescue stuff? What do you think?
Thanks,
Sam
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chuckd278
Oct 8, 2002, 5:54 PM
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Belaying a trad partner is different than a sport partner. You have to have an eye for the pull of the rope and what gear looks bad. A good course should also cover that topic.
Chuck
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transse
Oct 8, 2002, 5:55 PM
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I think a new definition of the word "bomber" would be helpful also.
Jake
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jammer
Oct 8, 2002, 5:59 PM
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Registered: Jun 25, 2002
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I'm in the same boat. I've tought myself a lot about climbing, but will not try anything that would put lives in danger. I'm going to try and take a course at IME in North Conway next year. The old school peeps out as I say "I'd rather be safe then sorry!".
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stevematthys
Oct 8, 2002, 5:59 PM
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it would also be good for the course to cover how to place multi-directional protection
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vikasshah
Oct 9, 2002, 11:28 PM
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While I'm pretty new to this activity, friends of mine who having been climbing for a long time tell me that a course which covers stuff you'd read about in John Long's How to Rock Climb and Climbing Anchors is probably a pretty good start - IE placing multiple pieces, equalizing load on the pieces (and the dangerous but not obvious ways you can substantially increase load on your anchors - like the American Triangle), placing oppositional pieces, optimal usage of runners to reduce rope drag, rapelling, hanging belays, gear arrangement.
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crazyj
Oct 10, 2002, 9:47 PM
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Registered: Sep 24, 2002
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If this course is going to have a lead emphasis I would request the following:
Anchor and Gear Placement
(as previously stated)
Belay Management - If you are doing any multipitch this will be essential. A messy belay station (especially hanging) makes everything that much harder and possibly dangerous.
Self Rescue - If the course is long enough, some basic self rescue stuff (escaping a belay, counter-weighted repels, etc.) would be pretty handy to learn.
Aid Climbing - I think aid really hones your gear placement skills.
Hope this helps!
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blessard
Oct 14, 2002, 7:20 PM
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Registered: Jan 21, 2002
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Take a look at www.VerticalAdventures.com at their Intermediate III course which emphasizes Trad Lead technique. They have a variety of other courses, including guided trips with Peter Croft!!
I'm signed up for the Int III in December.
Brad
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gunked
Oct 14, 2002, 7:51 PM
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Registered: Feb 1, 2002
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I like Blessard's idea of learning from VERY EXPERIENCED climbers. Unless you happen to be friends with somebody who really knows his/her s--- and is willing to teach you the ins and outs, then, a qualified guide is the way to go.
It's important to know if your gear is bomber or otherwise and how it can be used in different situations. Many of us have been somewhat self-taught and learned the "hard way". Being one of those people, I can certainly remember a few times in the beginning, that if I blew it, I would've cratered.
Being a trad, aid, etc.. requires the use of alot of specialized gear as well as alot more planning while climbing. Use of the gear necessitates a bit of the physicist and engineer in us to assist us in our endeavors. This is one of the reasons I adore traditional climbing so much. I get to use all of my resources: my body, my mind, my gear, my partner(not necessarily in that order! ) to achieve whatever my goals may be.
There's alot to be said to learning the hard way. You'll get plenty of chances to do that no matter what your level of climbing is. Have somebody teach and critique your gear placements and anchors before you and your buds end up being statistics. It only takes one broken hold combined with one not-so-great placement to create disaster!
Have a blast and keep climbing!
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