|
rockprodigy
Sep 27, 2007, 8:55 PM
Post #1 of 29
(5188 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 10, 2002
Posts: 1540
|
...read the Hangboard training article in the latest issue of Climbing.
|
|
|
|
|
anykineclimb
Sep 28, 2007, 12:24 AM
Post #2 of 29
(5139 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 30, 2003
Posts: 3593
|
Then I'd have to spend money on it! I come to rc.com for FREE entertainment dammit.
please share with the class
|
|
|
|
|
adklimber
Oct 8, 2007, 3:20 PM
Post #3 of 29
(4902 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jan 27, 2006
Posts: 110
|
Biggest waste of recycled paper evar!
|
|
|
|
|
xtremst80
Oct 8, 2007, 3:34 PM
Post #4 of 29
(4877 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jul 24, 2006
Posts: 306
|
Anybody know what he is talking about??? I dont waste my money on that mag, but am curious about the article.
|
|
|
|
|
EPiCJAMES
Oct 9, 2007, 1:39 AM
Post #5 of 29
(4791 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2007
Posts: 391
|
xtremst80 wrote: Anybody know what he is talking about??? I dont waste my money on that mag, but am curious about the article.
yeah, they brought several hangboards to The Spot climbing gmy in boulder, co. they had them try each board, and rate them in different categories. the moon fingerboard got the best review, but i think the simulator from metolius is far superior. i'll see if i can find a link about it.
|
|
|
|
|
EPiCJAMES
Oct 9, 2007, 1:50 AM
Post #6 of 29
(4781 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Aug 8, 2007
Posts: 391
|
can't find anythign online about it, looks liek you gotta "waste your money".
|
|
|
|
|
pcfcclmbr
Nov 5, 2007, 6:59 PM
Post #7 of 29
(4542 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 2, 2004
Posts: 46
|
I don't think he was referring to the review but to the idiotic pullup training for fingerboard workout article.
(This post was edited by pcfcclmbr on Nov 5, 2007, 6:59 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
fluxus
Nov 5, 2007, 7:05 PM
Post #8 of 29
(4531 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2003
Posts: 947
|
Please tell me that the mags aren't advocating pull-ups! Yet another huge step backwards for climbing . . .
|
|
|
|
|
guccipiggy
Nov 5, 2007, 7:10 PM
Post #9 of 29
(4523 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2006
Posts: 92
|
Got the mag for free at a comp this weekend.
Ben Moon wrote the training article.
Don't have the mag with me right now but the gist of it is doing 100 pull ups (from dead hang to nipple) in 60 min.
That's what I got from the article anyways.
See apology below.
(This post was edited by guccipiggy on Nov 6, 2007, 4:16 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
fluxus
Nov 5, 2007, 7:44 PM
Post #10 of 29
(4491 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2003
Posts: 947
|
Famous climber, nice guy, no clue.
please kill me now.
|
|
|
|
|
rockforlife
Nov 5, 2007, 8:08 PM
Post #11 of 29
(4460 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 14, 2002
Posts: 563
|
step backward????
|
|
|
|
|
fluxus
Nov 5, 2007, 8:13 PM
Post #12 of 29
(4454 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2003
Posts: 947
|
Well, its more like a step sideways or just standing still, but I thought that even mag editors were getting a clue that doing pull-ups is a stupid training activity. guess I'm wrong.
|
|
|
|
|
roy_hinkley_jr
Nov 5, 2007, 8:32 PM
Post #13 of 29
(4426 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Sep 8, 2005
Posts: 652
|
To be fair, I think the article was about working up to using a hangboard. It wasn't advocating pull-ups as the only form of training. So what would you recommend for someone who doesn't have a gym available?
|
|
|
|
|
fluxus
Nov 5, 2007, 8:55 PM
Post #14 of 29
(4400 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2003
Posts: 947
|
I think people who do not have a gym or crag near by are in a serious bind. The first thing they should do is find a way to train via climbing movement, build a woodie, glue holds to a near by cement wall, explore buildering resources etc.
Second, if you are going to do training that consists of off rock activities then said activities should be based on a kinesiological understanding of climbing movement.
Fourth, do not expect performance results from off-rock training. At best you can preserve or increase some forms of muscular fitness related to climbing but doing so may not not lead directly to performance gains, since there is so much more that goes into a climbing performance than muscular fitness. (The one exception here may be VERY experienced climbers who's movement / tactics / emotional strategies are very well developed.)
|
|
|
|
|
microbarn
Nov 5, 2007, 10:07 PM
Post #15 of 29
(4353 views)
Shortcut
Registered: May 12, 2004
Posts: 5920
|
fluxus wrote: I think people who do not have a gym or crag near by are in a serious bind. The first thing they should do is find a way to train via climbing movement, build a woodie, glue holds to a near by cement wall, explore buildering resources etc. Second, if you are going to do training that consists of off rock activities then said activities should be based on a kinesiological understanding of climbing movement. Fourth, do not expect performance results from off-rock training. At best you can preserve or increase some forms of muscular fitness related to climbing but doing so may not not lead directly to performance gains, since there is so much more that goes into a climbing performance than muscular fitness. (The one exception here may be VERY experienced climbers who's movement / tactics / emotional strategies are very well developed.)
1)
2)
4)
|
|
|
|
|
Freeridemang
Nov 5, 2007, 10:21 PM
Post #16 of 29
(4337 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Mar 29, 2007
Posts: 14
|
I agree with training boards. They do help. Dead hang work outs have helped me greatly lately, to get stronger faster. I noticed I can flash problems much more often due the fact that I could hang for much longer on shitty holds. I mean I started doing the intermediate workout about a month ago every time I climbed (3-4 times a week) and definatly noticed a differnce. Hell I Onsite flashed a V7 yesterday.
|
|
|
|
|
fluxus
Nov 5, 2007, 10:30 PM
Post #17 of 29
(4313 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2003
Posts: 947
|
microbarn wrote: fluxus wrote: 1) 2) 4) Point #3 was a top secret training tip intended to give everyone super human climbing powers. Unfortunately the homeland security people read my post and for the sake of national security edited it.
|
|
|
|
|
armsrforclimbing
Nov 5, 2007, 10:40 PM
Post #18 of 29
(4304 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Feb 11, 2004
Posts: 214
|
I enjoy the kinesiological training methods of the weekend warrior: Climbing with much more gear than the climb warrants, followed by a twelve ounce workout. And a few pull ups never hurt any weekend warriors in a bind. I have a hang board in my office. That, combined with a few pushups, is the best workout I can muster.
|
|
|
|
|
jt512
Nov 5, 2007, 10:46 PM
Post #19 of 29
(4301 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 12, 2001
Posts: 21904
|
fluxus wrote: microbarn wrote: 1) 2) 4) Point #3 was a top secret training tip intended to give everyone super human climbing powers. Unfortunately the homeland security people read my post and for the sake of national security edited it.
Someone has forgotten the holy Book Armaments, Chapter 4, versus 16 to 20:
'And the Lord spake, saying...thou shalt count to three. No more. No less. Three shalt be the number thou shalt count, and the number of the counting shall be three. Four shalt thou not count, nor either count thou two, excepting that thou then proceed to three. Five is right out. Once the number three, being the third number, be reached, then, lobbest thou thy Holy Hand Grenade of Antioch towards thy foe, who, being naughty in My sight, shall snuff it.'
Jay
|
|
|
|
|
artm
Nov 5, 2007, 10:51 PM
Post #20 of 29
(4294 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 22, 2001
Posts: 17990
|
fluxus wrote: Famous climber, nice guy, no clue. please kill me now.
|
|
|
|
|
artm
Nov 5, 2007, 10:54 PM
Post #21 of 29
(4291 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 22, 2001
Posts: 17990
|
fluxus wrote: microbarn wrote: 1) 2) 4) Point #3 was a top secret training tip intended to give everyone super human climbing powers. Unfortunately the homeland security people read my post and for the sake of national security edited it.
(This post was edited by artm on Nov 5, 2007, 10:55 PM)
|
|
|
|
|
fluxus
Nov 5, 2007, 11:47 PM
Post #22 of 29
(4256 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 3, 2003
Posts: 947
|
Art and Jay coming on with the smack down. Ouch!
|
|
|
|
|
guccipiggy
Nov 6, 2007, 4:18 AM
Post #23 of 29
(4199 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Apr 10, 2006
Posts: 92
|
guccipiggy wrote: Ben Moon wrote the training article. Don't have the mag with me right now but the gist of it is doing 100 pull ups (from dead hang to nipple) in 60 min.
My apologies to you folks especially to Ben Moon.
I looked at the article again and Ben Moon is not even mentioned in it.
The article is entitled 'Strong, Like Boulderer, Whip yourself into hangboard-ready fitness' by Dan Dewell.
(This post was edited by guccipiggy on Nov 6, 2007, 4:20 AM)
|
|
|
|
|
cchas
Nov 16, 2007, 4:03 AM
Post #24 of 29
(3897 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Jun 9, 2005
Posts: 344
|
fluxus wrote: I think people who do not have a gym or crag near by are in a serious bind. The first thing they should do is find a way to train via climbing movement, build a woodie, glue holds to a near by cement wall, explore buildering resources etc. Second, if you are going to do training that consists of off rock activities then said activities should be based on a kinesiological understanding of climbing movement. Fourth, do not expect performance results from off-rock training. At best you can preserve or increase some forms of muscular fitness related to climbing but doing so may not not lead directly to performance gains, since there is so much more that goes into a climbing performance than muscular fitness. (The one exception here may be VERY experienced climbers who's movement / tactics / emotional strategies are very well developed.)
Now, I would like to know your opinion on training antagonists and muscles responsible for stability (ie: rotator cuff excersizes.)
|
|
|
|
|
blueeyedclimber
Nov 16, 2007, 2:11 PM
Post #25 of 29
(3847 views)
Shortcut
Registered: Nov 19, 2002
Posts: 4602
|
I have not seen the article but was it saying that pullups are the only training you need? Well, that's just ridiculous, but they are a good condidtioning supplement.
|
|
|
|
|
|
1
