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hosh
Oct 1, 2007, 5:36 AM
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It's about that time again. Every year, I try and make it down to Joshua Tree to climb. It's still a few months away, but I'd like to perhaps start thinking about getting on some rather "fun" Off widths while I'm there this year (providing my wife will actually let me go again). So any one know any good OW's? And what kind of gear do these OW's take?
And as a sort of PS, anyone gotten on "Tumbling Rainbow"? How is that line? I've done Illusion Dweller a few times, and each time I've been on that line, I find myself wondering why I'm not on Tumbling Rainbow. the Route database here doesn't have much info on that climb...
Anyone?
hosh.
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caughtinside
Oct 1, 2007, 5:48 AM
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Do Orphan on the Old Woman, More flared squeeze chimney but still cool. Exciting with a #4 camalot, comfortable with a #5.
Dolphin over by split rock.
Bat Crack on intersection?
Haven't done tumbling rainbow, but it sure looks cool. Do Run for Your Life if you're up there, the .10b bolted face just left of TR.
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tansofun
Oct 1, 2007, 7:10 AM
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Check this list out
http://joshuatreeclimb.com/ClimbsGuest/offwidth.htm
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hosh
Oct 1, 2007, 5:54 PM
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tansofun wrote: Check this list out http://joshuatreeclimb.com/ClimbsGuest/offwidth.htm
This is EXACTLY what I was looking for. THANKS!!! Now, if I make it down to Josh this season, I can punish myself like I want to!
hosh.
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NSFW
Oct 1, 2007, 6:35 PM
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tansofun wrote: Check this list out http://joshuatreeclimb.com/ClimbsGuest/offwidth.htm
Awesome... I now have the exact opposite of my ToDo list. Like Yin and Yang. I feel balanced.
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vegastradguy
Oct 3, 2007, 2:08 AM
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go get on Dimp for a Chimp @ the Bachar TR wall.
*snicker*
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esoteric1
Oct 4, 2007, 6:38 AM
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ive done toumbling rainbow a few times, its loose and grainy...for a 9 your much better off doing western saga. the better routes on that pile are the two face lines to the left and the stuff off to the right if your up to it.....ive heard they are some of the best routes in the park...
mark
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scrapedape
Oct 8, 2007, 2:04 PM
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caughtinside wrote: Do Orphan on the Old Woman, More flared squeeze chimney but still cool. Exciting with a #4 camalot, comfortable with a #5. Dolphin over by split rock. Bat Crack on intersection? Haven't done tumbling rainbow, but it sure looks cool. Do Run for Your Life if you're up there, the .10b bolted face just left of TR.
I did a little OW groveling high on Bat Crack, but it was probably not the best way to do it. As I recall, my second more of less frictioned up the slab on the right. I ran out of gear and ran it out about 40 feet above a tipped out #2 tricam. In summary, OW gear, but no OW technique needed.
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j_ung
Oct 8, 2007, 2:41 PM
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Step 1: Purchase 1000 cheese graters.
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crotch
Oct 8, 2007, 6:10 PM
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caughtinside
Oct 8, 2007, 6:20 PM
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scrapedape wrote: caughtinside wrote: Do Orphan on the Old Woman, More flared squeeze chimney but still cool. Exciting with a #4 camalot, comfortable with a #5. Dolphin over by split rock. Bat Crack on intersection? Haven't done tumbling rainbow, but it sure looks cool. Do Run for Your Life if you're up there, the .10b bolted face just left of TR. I did a little OW groveling high on Bat Crack, but it was probably not the best way to do it. As I recall, my second more of less frictioned up the slab on the right. I ran out of gear and ran it out about 40 feet above a tipped out #2 tricam. In summary, OW gear, but no OW technique needed.
Hmm, that's interesting. I'm not sure you'd want to friction climb it on lead though, it might be tough to reach in and protect. Of course, if you're running it out 40 feet I guess it doesn't matter!
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hosh
Oct 9, 2007, 7:33 AM
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What is Tumbling Rainbow like? I'm guessing one pitch, off hands? Or is it a shoulder swallower? Are there anchors at the top? Walk off? Rap? One rope? Two? I don't have a J-Tree guide book, nor can I easily get one, living in AK and all... That climb has been in my mind for 2 years now. I'd love to send it, it's such a beautiful looking crack to me.
hosh.
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flint
Oct 9, 2007, 8:02 AM
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j_ung wrote: Step 1: Purchase 1000 cheese graters.
Step 2: Place them under a slip and slide on a steep hill
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tansofun
Oct 17, 2007, 2:49 AM
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Hey Hosh,
I was just looking at the JT bouldering book, and there's a problem called Hobbit Hole Offwidth, says its 3 star classic V0-, "goes from 4 in. to 10 in. on a smoot hvertical wall."
GPS N34 deg 01.381 W 116 deg 09.850
If the crew decides to go to JT this weekend, I'll let you know how it is
**Edit**
http://barringtonandsunset.net/...huaTree05/index.html
(This post was edited by tansofun on Oct 17, 2007, 2:50 AM)
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cchas
Oct 17, 2007, 3:45 AM
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Now talking about Josh OW's, can anyone tell me why Apocalypse Now to the right of Heart of Darkness is given a 5.10b in the Vogel guide, its now harder the 5.9 if that (but then again Heart-o-Darkness is no harder then 5.11a and not the 5.11c in the Vogel guide)
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radioface
Oct 17, 2007, 4:57 AM
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Deep Throat 5.9: an exciting starless route.
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