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healyje
Sep 29, 2007, 8:49 AM
Post #26 of 45
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shimanilami wrote: And if you don't trust them, then STFU and buy something else.
Actually, I don't trust them, CCH, or Dave. And at this point, with the documented failures we've seen over the past several years - including post-recall and 'Tensile Tested' cams - it isn't the sort of issue to keep quiet about. Quite the contrary - I'd say as a community we have a responsibility to let folks know these products aren't safe. Anyone buying them at this stage is completely clueless, in denial, or doing their own testing and taking their chances.
STFU is what anyone attempting to defend CCH or Aliens should do.
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curt
Sep 29, 2007, 2:51 PM
Post #27 of 45
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healyje wrote: shimanilami wrote: And if you don't trust them, then STFU and buy something else. Actually, I don't trust them, CCH, or Dave. And at this point, with the documented failures we've seen over the past several years - including post-recall and 'Tensile Tested' cams - it isn't the sort of issue to keep quiet about. Quite the contrary - I'd say as a community we have a responsibility to let folks know these products aren't safe. Anyone buying them at this stage is completely clueless, in denial, or doing their own testing and taking their chances. STFU is what anyone attempting to defend CCH or Aliens should do.
I agree completely. In fact, be sure to re-read the post by renneberg above. I'll repost it here:
renneberg wrote: I have tested many "New Aliens" Stamped tested etc. Photos of the test have been posted here and on Supertopo. FISH agrees with and supports the test.
I have had 2 fail early, 1100# and 1200#.
Not cool. Dave now posts that the he does not approve of the test.... I bet he does not!
The complete incompetence demonstrated by CCH is truly amazing.
Curt
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gimmeslack
Sep 29, 2007, 7:16 PM
Post #28 of 45
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The Gendarme at Seneca Rocks had a good stock of them a couple of weeks ago.
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cracklover
Sep 29, 2007, 8:06 PM
Post #29 of 45
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The local EMS has a ton of 'em.
Plenty of 'em out there if you want 'em. Caveat emptor never seemed so true, though.
GO
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billcoe_
Sep 30, 2007, 9:00 PM
Post #30 of 45
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j_ung wrote: ....units marked tensile tested by CCH have been documented failing at unacceptably low loads, right?
Right. That guy that got dug out of the dirt on Soulders Crack had a new yellow one. One that was suppose to be tested.
The new "Aliens" (narrow head 4 cam units) that Metolius are coming out with are not expected to fail.
Why not just wait for the quality product? Screw CCH, they really deserve to be in some other non-critical line of work in my opinion.
Maybe quilting...........Knitting........Sewing...but non-critical things: not haul bags and harnesses, but like pants. Hey, your brand new pants rip right up the crotch when you are giving a speech in public and fall right off exposing your bare ass, so what eh?
At least you still get to walk away from their mistake.
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pbcowboy77
Oct 1, 2007, 4:59 PM
Post #31 of 45
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I'm not going to get into the debate about this or defend CCH. All I have to say is that I took a 10 footer on a new Red/Yellow hybrid and I weigh 230 lbs. and guess what... I'm still alive. I also have a like 10 of the new ones and I've not only bounce tested the crap out of them on the ground, but I've taken them on a couple of big walls now and place them all the time and bounce the hell out of them.
So to answer your question, Yes I have taken a fall on them and I've really put all of mine to the test and they are fine.
If you don't feel right about using them when you buy them, send them to Russ at fish. He does an amazing job and I would trust the guy with my life when it comes to climbing.
I hope this helped and didn't stir up any more big debates.
Now I'm headed back to Supertaco...
Caz
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murf
Oct 1, 2007, 5:18 PM
Post #32 of 45
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Registered: Mar 15, 2002
Posts: 1150
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pbcowboy77 wrote: Now I'm headed back to Supertaco...
Screw the Taco, how about heading to JT or maybe the gym? Hows the shoulder?
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pbcowboy77
Oct 1, 2007, 5:21 PM
Post #33 of 45
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Registered: Jun 9, 2002
Posts: 574
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The Shoulder is fine but China sucks. As I type this I'm back in the US in 5 days 2 hours and 11 minutes...
Good to hear from you Murf.
Oh and I'm down for JTree any time. Hell I can still belay 5.13.
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dudemanbu
Oct 1, 2007, 11:15 PM
Post #34 of 45
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Registered: Jun 3, 2005
Posts: 941
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Man, i remember back in 2005 if anyone posted anything bad about CCH, they were practically chased from the site with torches and pitchforks. How the times have changed.
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ja1484
Oct 1, 2007, 11:28 PM
Post #36 of 45
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In reply to: I don't believe that they are so morally evil that they would just say they did for the hell of it.
According to the rumor mill, more like drunk at work than morally evil.
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reno
Oct 2, 2007, 2:44 AM
Post #37 of 45
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Registered: Oct 30, 2001
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pbcowboy77 wrote: Oh and I'm down for JTree any time. Hell I can still belay 5.13.
Dude, I'm there, as long as you can still belay 5.2.
Single again, so no constraints on climbing trips other than work. And work is quite flexible.
And the weather is getting much more conducive to JT climbing.
I'll bring some Jack, if it helps.
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hosh
Oct 2, 2007, 7:38 AM
Post #39 of 45
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Registered: Dec 15, 2003
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pbcowboy77 wrote: reno wrote: I'll bring some Jack, if it helps. Dude you bring Jack and I'll be anywhere... Are we starting to hijack this thread? Caz
What's the deal? I've noticed more talk about J-tree on this site lately than I've ever noticed before. What gives?
hosh.
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pbcowboy77
Oct 2, 2007, 7:59 AM
Post #40 of 45
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hosh wrote: pbcowboy77 wrote: reno wrote: I'll bring some Jack, if it helps. Dude you bring Jack and I'll be anywhere... Are we starting to hijack this thread? Caz What's the deal? I've noticed more talk about J-tree on this site lately than I've ever noticed before. What gives? hosh.
It's about that time that everyone gets the JTree itch...
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reno
Oct 2, 2007, 1:35 PM
Post #41 of 45
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hosh wrote: What's the deal? I've noticed more talk about J-tree on this site lately than I've ever noticed before. What gives?
It's that time of year. You'll see more posts about Red Rock Canyon in Vegas, too.
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LaddRaine
Oct 2, 2007, 2:19 PM
Post #42 of 45
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Registered: Jul 19, 2007
Posts: 11
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I've taken substantial lead falls on both my new blue aliens, they have held just fine. I haven't fallen yet on my greens, yellows, or my red. I'm confident in placing my Aliens, and I never hesitate.
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Nnorthwall
Oct 2, 2007, 8:29 PM
Post #43 of 45
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Registered: Oct 1, 2007
Posts: 11
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Aliens major problem is over heat the 7 X 19 cable on silver solder brazing process.
Silver solder Braze temperature is F 1,240 degree.
5/32 inch diameter X 7 strand X 19 wire cable is form with 133 fine(.009 inch diameter) stainless steel wire. Silver solder braze has to be done on 133 wire and cabble end fitting if not loose strength.
"Silver Solder braze Heat Control system" for the 5/32X7 X19 cable is not in the market. That is why
BD, Metolius and DMM not use Silver soldering process for the 7 X 19 cable. They are use Swage process(cold process).
Any over heat on the 133 fine wire will burn the fine wire and loose strength. Burn wire color will be dark gray color. I saw your brocken(@1100 and 1200 lbs) Aliens picture, cable color was dark gray color. It is burned the fine 133 wire and loose strength.
"Hope" gear retailer and climber understand above and save climber's life
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NSFW
Oct 2, 2007, 8:39 PM
Post #44 of 45
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Registered: Jul 25, 2007
Posts: 2005
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pbcowboy77 wrote: hosh wrote: pbcowboy77 wrote: reno wrote: I'll bring some Jack, if it helps. Dude you bring Jack and I'll be anywhere... Are we starting to hijack this thread? Caz What's the deal? I've noticed more talk about J-tree on this site lately than I've ever noticed before. What gives? hosh. It's about that time that everyone gets the JTree itch...
I got that last year, took 3 rounds of antibiotics to finally get rid of it.
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desertwanderer81
Oct 3, 2007, 12:26 AM
Post #45 of 45
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Registered: Sep 5, 2007
Posts: 2272
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hosh wrote: pbcowboy77 wrote: reno wrote: I'll bring some Jack, if it helps. Dude you bring Jack and I'll be anywhere... Are we starting to hijack this thread? Caz What's the deal? I've noticed more talk about J-tree on this site lately than I've ever noticed before. What gives? hosh.
The average temperature in the desert is about 75 degrees this time of year....it's nice ;)
But yeah, JTree has always been over rated as a climbing area.
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