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rushjunkie11
Oct 13, 2002, 2:59 AM
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Registered: Jul 5, 2002
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I'm sure someone's probably posted this before me, but i thought i'd share a tip i've been using to ease my mind when my pro placements are less than bomber.
My old rope got a split sheath after a long fall, and i decided to put it to use even after i retired it.
I cut lengths of it and use a double fisherman's knot to tie the lengths into over the shoulder slings, which i clip into any placements that i'm not completly sure about.
That way, the stretch factor in the rope reduces a little of the force put on the pro, kind of like a yate's screamer.
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nlunstrum
Oct 13, 2002, 3:10 AM
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Registered: Apr 20, 2002
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How much does a piece of rope that short really stretch? Just curious.
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tradclmbr
Oct 13, 2002, 3:26 AM
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Registered: Sep 4, 2002
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I agree, that little rope will not give you the same triggered response as a yates screamer, but hey if it makes YOU feel better about less than bomber placements all the better for your head (unless of course your head gets wacked when your pro pulls I know thats not really funny, but Im in a wierd mood.
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winkwinklambonini
Oct 13, 2002, 2:05 PM
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Registered: Sep 17, 2002
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that's alot of bulk for not much benefit. I don't know where you climb, but marginal placements can usually be avoided.
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stevematthys
Oct 13, 2002, 5:28 PM
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Registered: Sep 13, 2000
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marginal placements can be avoided on most routes, but there are the routes with "R" and "X" ratings where they can not be avoided.
i would just put a screamer on it. i dont like the idea of putting an old retired rope on a placement that is marginal. but that is just me.
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offwidth
Oct 14, 2002, 5:38 PM
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Registered: Apr 17, 2002
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If you don't have a screamer, remember two equalized marginal placements will probably be better than one by itself.
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stoutclimb1
Oct 14, 2002, 6:16 PM
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Registered: Oct 4, 2002
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whats a screamer
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pbjosh
Oct 14, 2002, 6:19 PM
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Registered: Mar 22, 2002
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http://www.yatesgear.com/climbing/screamer/index.htm
It's a load limiting device - the idea is it's a sling with "wings" sewn into it with weak stitches. The stitches will blow at moderate loads (~500lbs in a std. screamer if I recall correctly, could be wrong) and absorb some shock in a fall, lowering the force exerted on what may be a questionable piece of gear. Check out the link and pictures and it'll be a little more clear.
Lots of other people make competetive products that are just as good but AFAIK screamers were invented by Yates and thus the generic name for all such devices is "Screamer"
josh
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