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kimgraves
Nov 2, 2007, 11:40 PM
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Registered: Jan 13, 2003
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Hi Pete,
You've had a couple of posts about what a bitchin' send Mark and Richard put up and how far ahead of it's time it was. And K' was telling me about leading an A5 flake on the Reticent where if she fucked up she was dead.
My question is technical not emotional.
You got spanked on WOS but have climbed other A4+-5 routes. How do you hold it together for the 7ish hours it take to lead a really hard pitch? Do you think about your breathing? Do you focus on the moment? What's happening in your head? What explicitly is "fun"? Can you describe the experience and what you bring to bear to the project?
I am a whole lot less then "a theorist", having lead maybe 3 pitches of A2 in my life. But I am really interested in the mind state needed to confront hard aid.
Best, Kim
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j_ung
Nov 3, 2007, 12:31 AM
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Registered: Nov 21, 2003
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I'm also something far less than a "theorist," but for the few aid pitches I've led, I've noticed that time is condensed... utterly... completely... mindblowingly condensed. I once spent over four hours on a pitch and, to this day, I still swear it couldn't have been more than 20 minutes. (Of course, it goes without saying that I was pretty dehydrated by the end of it.) If that's anything close what happens to people on longer, harder pitches, I won't be surprised.
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ammon
Nov 4, 2007, 1:04 AM
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Registered: Feb 27, 2004
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In reply to: And K' was telling me about leading an A5 flake on the Reticent where if she fucked up she was dead.
The current rating for the Reticent Wall is no harder than A3+. Sorry guys, not too much A5 on El Cap... but, it's there if you're looking hard enough.
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stymingersfink
Nov 4, 2007, 2:11 AM
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Registered: Aug 12, 2003
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kimgraves wrote: Hi Pete, You've had a couple of posts about what a bitchin' send Mark and Richard put up and how far ahead of it's time it was. And K' was telling me about leading an A5 flake on the Reticent where if she fucked up she was dead. My question is technical not emotional. You got spanked on WOS but have climbed other A4+-5 routes. How do you hold it together for the 7ish hours it take to lead a really hard pitch? Do you think about your breathing? Do you focus on the moment? What's happening in your head? What explicitly is "fun"? Can you describe the experience and what you bring to bear to the project? I am a whole lot less then "a theorist", having lead maybe 3 pitches of A2 in my life. But I am really interested in the mind state needed to confront hard aid. Best, Kim
The one you can do nothing about, the other you can always back off from if your ego doesn't get in the way.
I'd have to guess that ptpp's experience skews par a tad higher than yours or mine.
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billcoe_
Nov 23, 2007, 5:45 PM
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Registered: Jun 30, 2002
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Ammon (or anyone) can you direct me to a reference what currently your are using to define A3 (and the rest as well)
I think back in the day, A3 was defined as 20-40 feet fall potential, while A5 was rip a full pitch. Now I understand that ledge falls have somehow been integrated. I see Pete using the Bridwell designators as well like PDH (Pretty damn hard) and DFU (Don't F up)
Thanks
Bill
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wanderlustmd
Nov 27, 2007, 2:02 PM
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Registered: Oct 24, 2006
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I think (think...) Ammon is referencing to New Wave grades, which, to my knowledge, grade a pitch based on injury/death potential, not fall length/gear quality.
But since the Reticent has seen a few ascents, maybe pin scars are lowering the grade. Couldn't tell ya.
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